Welll , finally after I got the motor rebuilt , etc I got to run it on the rollers . It runs great and all that but , I seen soemthing weird. The top rad hose was sucked shut . It goes with RPM too ....as you rev it ...it sucks tighter. Now I decided to run it anyhow and after about 5000 rpm she let go something in there .... but bellow that it did it agian .
On the highway she sits at about 210-220 deg ( in 34 HOT weather) . I had it to a place to get it flushed and filled . They found I had a clogged heater core . I don't mind the no heat thing for the summer but , it would be nice to have it all working right so I will get to that probably next season. .


My guess is they possibly sold me the wrong water pump . The car is an 1989 ...motor 1988 .


Anyone got an idea ?

 

well, this is just my two cents worth, if it is suckin the hose shut then the water pump isnt able to get the coolant it wants, so by pass the heater core until you decide to replace it, and see what that does.

 

some radiator hoses have a spring either slid in them or molded into them to keep them from colapsing. The wrong water pump also sounds like a very good possibility

 

I just figured the top hose was always pressurized when the T-stat opens .... it is wierd to see it being the opposite.



I will let ya know how it all goes. Becasue a flush and fill did nothing for it .

 

I believe that's how it is supposed to be as well.
Only thing I can think of is that you have a standard rotation (V-belt) pump being used with a reverse rotation (serpentine) belt setup. Or vice versa.

 

I appreciate that man . I think it is that too . I have yet to hear back from my doctor though .....

 

Out of curiousity, when is the last time you replaced the radiator cap or had it tested? Sounds to me like as you spin the engine, you're not getting an inlet air source to fill in for the coolants outward flow. Thus, it creates a vacuum in the void of the upper tank/upper radiator hose and sucks it in on itself. Thats the gist of the story.

If it were the case of a standard versus reverse flow, you would have been in trouble by now.

 

no chit eh ? I will try the new cap out ( nice and cheap ) along with the thermostat . The car is up north and my phone ( Bell is on strike here .... ) is shot so it's a bugger trying to get a hold of my Dr

 

well here is whats happening .


Changed the T-stat from a 180 ...to 1 160 . Still getting to 210 on the highway . Not positive if second fan is comeing on .....


Take the rad cap off..... and she flows like a bugger. You know when you are trying to get air out of it ? She surges a bit ( level in the rad ) up and down , then maybe some coolant comes out of'r . well this one just starts a flowing ...big time . Then it will flow collant out of it at an alarming rate ( shoots right over the passenger side fender )

...this is a completely stock cooling system . Dual fan .


I appreciate all the input .

 

I just replaced my water pump with a new one for my new motor. The one I took off (reverse rotation, serpentine) had a big 451 stamped right above the inlet for the lower hose. My old one had it, the new one had it. If you haven't checked to see if you have the right pump that may be something you want to look for. My car was a 91 if that makes any difference. I will be out at my Dad's tomorrow and get an exact part number if that will help.

 

thanx man . I would appreciate the number ....hopefully it tells me something

 

The part number on my pump is 10108451. It is stamped on the backside of the pump. Like I said, the big consistant and obvious feature was the big 451 stamped on the front. I don't know if all sb chevy pumps have that but my core and new pump both did.

 

Well this time the heatercore was bipassed . It was said that "it looked like it just didnt flow enough " But I see others with more mods not haveing a problem

 

So nobody thinks that the water pump could be the wrong one ....and flowing backwards ?

 

Did any of those numbers match?

 

Standard or reverse rotation has nothing to do with flow direction. Either way, the coolant gets sucked in through the bottom and pushed out the 2 rear passages into the block.

Rotation refers to the direction the pulley spins, and consequentally, the impellars direction (clockwise or counter clockwise).

 

But if he has the wrong rotation, the pump will not pull right. I think that is what he is asking. My numbers are for a reverse rotation water pump.

 

well the pump isn;t off . But after reading on the power adder board for a bit . I see others are useing the stock cooling setup without issue. My mechanic has lost interest in working on it it seems . It is just really odd to see the top rad hose get sucked shut ....with rpm's . I did want to upgrade the coolnig system ....but not yet . It's a really tame setup I am running . Thats what madfe me figure there HAS to be soemthing wrong . I am about to pull out the T-stat and try it like that ....


...I find this frusterateing . I hurt myself at work 2 years ago and , can;t work on it myself . SO it is getting $$$$ and frusterateing diagnoseing a problem in a system that only has 4 components .

Pump ...rad ...t -stat .... heater core ( which I know is plugged but we bypassed it )

thanks again all for all the input . I really appreciate it

 

Well it was cooler out last night ...adn we took out the T-stat .....ot stayed at around 160 deg all the way hoem on the highway ......


got a block from the house ....adn the fuel pump quit on me