Car overheats after thermostats opens....??
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
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Car: 89 Iroc z
Engine: 350 TPI 5,000 miles on new engine
Transmission: 700 R4
Car overheats after thermostats opens....??
Ok, The car started to get hot a while ago, so i didn't know when the last time the previous owner changed it, so i flushed the system and changed the thermostat and added all new fluids. I put in a 195 stat and it seems to work. The only problably i have is the guage gets right below 220 mark and then you can see it drop and i know the thermostat opened. But then you look at a couple min. later and the temp. is above the 220 mark and will keep on rising fairly quickly. I don't think theres ne air in there b/c i know the thermostat opens and the temp. goes down. i'm thinking about draining it and trying it again, but i'm at a loss on what else to do. There aren't ne leaks that i have noticed, the cap holds pressure. I can't really think of nething else. Ne help would be appreciated thanks,
Brady
Brady
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
When you changed the coolant and thermostat, did you let the car reach operating temp with the radiator cap off (after the thermostat opened) to remove all of the air? If not, try it first. If so, does it run hot in traffic only or while driving down the highway?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
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Car: 89 Iroc z
Engine: 350 TPI 5,000 miles on new engine
Transmission: 700 R4
I will try that again. it gets hott faster in stop and go traffic, but usually if the temp. is up around like 240-250, i can drive down the highway and the temp. will go down since theres more air coming in faster. other times it stays where it is or goes up, it really depends on how much of a breeze there is and if i'm driving into the wind or not thanks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
If the car was running hot before you swapped t-stats and is still running hot, check your electric fan. Cooling at speed but overheating in stop and go (if these are your symptoms) points directly at the fan.
You can drill a small hole in the side of the t-stat to allow air to escape if that concerns you.
You can drill a small hole in the side of the t-stat to allow air to escape if that concerns you.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
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Car: 89 Iroc z
Engine: 350 TPI 5,000 miles on new engine
Transmission: 700 R4
The fans come on automatically when the car is turned on to the on position. I will check to see if only one is working though. The stat i got said it had an air bypass valve. I donno if it really works but thanks. I'm gonna go check my fans now
Last edited by bolinger89z; Aug 12, 2005 at 11:26 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Car: 89 Iroc z
Engine: 350 TPI 5,000 miles on new engine
Transmission: 700 R4
just looked in there and when the car is on, i only have the passenger side fan running. I'm pretty sure that both of them used to be running when it was started, but its something i've never really payed attention to. So should they both be running when the car is started?? If so, then what should my next step be?? thanks for everything
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
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Car: 89 Iroc z
Engine: 350 TPI 5,000 miles on new engine
Transmission: 700 R4
something else i noticed. i ran the car w/ the cap off and coolant overflowed some and all the good stuff, but the stat kicked on and the level dropped. Then the level would go up and down, i donno if it was just swishing back and fourth or what, but it would go down, and in a second or 2 it would come almost to the top. But the real question i have is that the coolant kept coming back into the radiator, from the tube right below the radiator cap. (not the one from the resevoir). It never stopped the entire time, so i was wondering if the stat is stuck open or if that is what it is suppose to do. I thought that it would change and the coolant level would gradually rise and then the coolant from the hose would stop coming out. oh yeah, the other fan never kicked on throughout the entire process. ne help would be appreciated, thanks
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Coolant should come out of that hose all of the time. It's the heater core return line. The second fan is for the a/c, and should come on if you turn on the air. You might want to check for leaves or debris blocking the radiator (between the condenser and radiator), or your radiator might just be crap. It should run around 195 on the highway at speed.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
The second fan should come on when the temp guage gets hot enough or when the air conditioning is on. When it's hot enough both should run. Cut the a/c switch on to check. If no fan, see if you can run the power wire from the one that's constantly running to the second to check the motor.
Sounds like everything else is normal, though it's a little difficult to follow you.
Sounds like everything else is normal, though it's a little difficult to follow you.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
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Car: 89 Iroc z
Engine: 350 TPI 5,000 miles on new engine
Transmission: 700 R4
i switched them and the fan still didn't run. Ran outta time today, so i'm gonna run power straight from the battery tomorrow and see if it will work. If it works, then all i need is a new relay correct? thanks for all the help so far, i'm so glad i'm getting this worked out
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 2
From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
If you switched connectors between fans, and the second fan didn't run when you switched them (but the primary fan did when it was plugged in) then you have a bad fan motor.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Just pick one up a autozone or your favorite parts place. Most will come with a warranty.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Autozone, napa and parts america (advance) all have websites that will tell you price and warranty stuff. Let's you compare prices before you jet out to pick it up.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
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Car: 89 Iroc z
Engine: 350 TPI 5,000 miles on new engine
Transmission: 700 R4
i went and picked one up for around 50 dollars w/ a lifetime warranty, thanks for all the help. donno what i would do w/out this place
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Car: 89 Iroc z
Engine: 350 TPI 5,000 miles on new engine
Transmission: 700 R4
yeah, i would have thought the other one would have went out first, cause the first fan is rigged to start when the car is turned to the on position. so it runs a lot more than the other one. who knows thanks for all the help everyone
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