Well i wired my both my fans to a switch and leave them on all the time and she still overheats.I know i have a small leak by my oil cooler lines. I checked the coolant today in the radiator, but it looks crystal clean. So im not sure if its even an air pocket...

and if i pull the oil cooler lines off...how much coolant Im I looking at to leak out...just to get an idea.

 

Our cars don't have oil coolers, that's transmission fluid. And if you take out the tranny fluid lines you shouldn't leak any coolant at all, they are totally independent of each other when working properly.

 

his has one, its down at the oil filter.

most of the coolant will probably drain out when you pull the oil cooler hoses.
are you overheating at low speeds or sitting still or is it when your at freeway speeds?

 

not really sure...i was driving around last night at cool nighttime temps and she never overheated(so i thought by putting the fans on all the time, my problem was solved)...stayed between the notch past 100 and 220. I did notice however if i got on it the temp was raise but then lower again as i just was cruising. Now it just raises all the time as i drove it today...it was a bit hotter out though during the day time.

 

Well i noticed today that when i came home after seeing the temp gauge getting really high, that my resvoir was almost empty...i pulled the cap off the radiator and my radiator was completely full. Does that mean i need some coolant? and that its just sucking in air when the res is empty? (hence a possible air pocket)

 

The Iroc package did come with an oil cooler and maybe an

option if checked. Was sandwiched between the block and

the oil filter. Steel hardline and rubber hose connections Will

have two lines coming out to the radiator. Maybe clamp or hose

leaks. Pulled mine off and went with B&M cooler with transdapt.
Factory-Water cools oil,minimal. After market- Airflow cools oil,higher heat transfer if you need it.
Later

jaykar

 

Coolant should be at the full - hot line on the resevoir when hot. Might be something to look into.

At the very least, fill it up and try to monitor the rate of coolant loss.

 

i replaced the radiator....i think there was a blockage right in the center due to the fact that it was always cold in the center compared to the rest of the radiator

 

ok well nvm..guess it wasnt the radiator, so now ive replaced the thermo (again) and put in a new water pump(again). It overheats at idle in gear i believe. Ill start it up in my driveway and the needle wont move(unless it takes a long long time for it to overheat in park) but then ill drive it around and at stop lights the temps begin to creep up. I even removed my a/c condenser thinking it might be restricting air flow. im stumped now, i know the car has higher compression which would make it run hotter but still...

ill put it in park or neutral and rev and the temps will come down

maybe its running lean at those lower rpms?...thats about all i can think of now

 

Are you sure it's overheating? The factory guages are not reliable, my TA reads about 30 degrees high, my camaro low. Some tune-up places can connect to it and tell what the ecm thinks the temp is. Has it ever boiled over?

Other possible causes: collapsed lower radiator hose, timing too advanced, air pocket (you can drill a small hole in the t-stat but will usually clear itself), exhaust restriction (you'd probably notice this), blocked coolant passages (how'd the coolant look when you flushed w/radiator change?), airflow at radiator-air dam/fans/etc. water pump (correct rotation-v-belt vs. serpentine?)

The reservoir will fill when hot (higher pressure in radiator) and empty when the radiator cools (pressure drops). That's why the hot marks higher than the cold mark. Any air that may enter will not cause an air pocket in the engine.

 

go stick your head under your car and see if the air dam is still there.


its probly gone.


without it, you wont have much air going thru the radiator when the car is moving, and you will overheat.

 

airdams there...the black thing right?

I know theres a piece of plasic that bolted in front of it...waht is that?...doesnt look like i can hook the other side up without my ground effects...?

its in the shape of a square..

and yea im sure its overheating...i mounted a new gauge to read the temp...i knew my factory one was shot..

The radiator hose isnt collapsing...timing it set at base..the coolant was clean when it came out..

as far as the belt goes..yea im sure its the correct rotation but the v belt v.s serpentine?...can you explain?

 

serpentine belts wrapped around the water pump shaft pulley differently.

 

ooo well i got my belt from autozone...im pretty sure the belt is fine..

 

The diff. between V-belt is V pretty much has a different belt for each accessory, single V design. Serpy is a 6 rib design with a single belt that drives each accessory.

Under the factory routing, a V-belt water pump is the standard rotation and the serpentine is the reverse rotation (pump shaft rotation direction compared to the crankshafts rotation direction).

 

ok well today i actually went to autozone after examining my belts and seeing that my belt was alittle too big (i was playing guess and check with belts because i didnt have the belt i needed or the part number because the car has underdrive pullies and i didnt know the company who made them) So anyway, i grabbed a new belt and now it fits perfect. I was thinking the big belt was letting the waterpump slip at low rpm...because if it was in park or neutral and i held a rev (around 2500rpm) the temps would start going down, fairly quickly at that too. Didnt solve the problem though...im out of ideas at this point

 

Does your car have a serpentine belt with an underdrive pulley on the crank?

If it's cooling down at higher revs there are two possibilities (in addition to some we've already discussed):

1. Your pump is incorrect rotation. You should have a serpentine setup that turns the water pump shaft in the opposite rotation of the crank (92 right?). The pump for your model car should be correct for serp setup. Have you changed your setup?

2. Your underdrive pulley isn't allowing the pump to turn fast enough at idle. May want to do a search to see if anyone else has ever had this problem, I've no experience with underdrive pulleys. Should be easy to check though by swapping the original pulley back on.

 

yea that was my guess that the underdrive pulley on the car wasnt allowing it to turn fast enough. It makes sense because it if goes into park and the rpms are significantly higher then in D the motor overheats much slower or not at all, depending on the situation. I didnt change my setup at all...so im sure the waterpump is spinning in the right direction

 

That did the same thing and I never did find out what the problem was. It was completely stock. It was very annoying. Didnt matter much though cuz i let some chick drive it when i was drunk, not the smartest thing but better than getting a dui, and she wrote it off. LOL. Now I got an 86 and have not had a single problem like this ever. I hate the sensor and TPI crap on the newer camaros. My 86 had it, but not for long, I converted to a high rpm intake/ edelbroke carb. Now I only have about 12 wires under the hood total.....not 5 million to cause me nothin but a headache. Suggestion: Get rid of the problem and convert it. Then put MSD ignition in it. You wont be sorry u did.

If your stuck on the TPI I can understand that too. Converting it is just my opinion. (I like to sit in my motor compartment and understand whats goin on and fix it myself)

Note: Have not had a single problem with anything since I did the conversion. Before I did the conversion problems all the time....one thing or another.

 

This may sound completely out of the sky..... The front of these cars has a very indirect path for air to reach fan. Removing driving lites helps. Air cannot be blocked or problems will result. I have noticed a rather easy build up of all kinds of crud on the air conditioning "radiator" in the few of these I have looked at. Some to the point where the build up was almost circular and a little smaller than the fan. Nutty and must be really low maintanance vehicle, but cleaning the outside is an old-old habit of mine and has brought me resulst in many case even these cars.

While the radiator may even have been removed, it is distinctly possible to still have a blockage right there in front of it.