Ok the car STILL overheats. My last option is that maybe when i was doing the intake gaskets..i blocked a water port. It seems the car will run good temps while cruising (depends alot on the outside temp). Today however it was pretty hot out and it was around 210..when i came to a stop it would begin to climb fast, so i decided to take the highway back to my house to cool it down. Well i got on it alot on the on ramp..and the temps really wouldnt leave 210. So then i came to a stop and the car was suddenly at 250 before i knew it. This kind of makes me believe its a waterport blocked bc of how fast it jumps and after a WOT run coming to a stop the car sudddenly runs very very hot.

My main question here is how plausible is it that i blocked a water port when doing the intake gaskets...this ever happen to anyone?

 

What have you done so far to track down the problem?You could have installed an intake gasket backwards blocking a water crossover.Is the under car airdam still in place(tt does more at speed for airflow into the radiator than the fans).Are you running electric fans?If so are they coming on(are you running a stock or modified system for fan control)?If you have a belt driven fan you could have a bad fan clutch.Also there could be an air pocket in the cooling system causing her to overheat.

 

ok its a wierd overheating problem. Like it begins to climb at idle...sometimes fast, sometimes slow, depending on how hot it gets before i start moving again. If its at 190 and i start moving itll be fine and cool down or stay at 190. If its at 215 and i start moving it jumps to like 230 and comes down slowly (or stays there for a long long time) as i move. However when i got on the highway and punched it or w/e, the temps started going up..then then would rapidly fall down..its wierd. Yea the airdam is still there. Ive changed the waterpump, radaitor, and thermo. Both my fans are on all the time. The erratic-ness? of the problem makes me believe that its like a bottle neck somewhere in the cooling systems(hence the gasket) and it can overcome it sometimes but then other times it cant.Like under light throttle, it gets coolant through, but at idle its not enough pressure to push it through and under wot its too much and it begins to build up or just not enough coolant is getting through to cool the motor at wot.

 

An air pocket in the cooling system will cause similar problems.Also did the parts store give you the correct rotation water pump(are you running a serpetine or v-belts)?And just because the thermostat is new doesn't mean it's opening correctly.

 

This mite sound like but check your guage connections. It almost sounds like a short.

 

No exliving it doesn't.I wasn't even thinking of an errant gauge,sending unit or loose connection.Very good point.

 

i put a gauge in to replace the factory one. Its just a cheap one..but it mounts in the same hole as the sending unit did. Today was pretty hot but if i drive it gently, it wont get that hot..like today it reached 190 and as i cruised it would come down a bit, but when i came to a stop it would slowly begin to climb. Yea im pretty sure i have the correct rotation for the waterpump. Im running a serpentine belt. The problem mostly lies at idle. Thats where it beging to build up heat. If i cruise on the highway it wil be fine, but as soon as i come to a stop it jumps like coolant is suddenly stopped form flowing.

i figure the thermo is opening because if it wasnt wouldnt it overheat fairly quickly...even if im gentle with it? Ive replaced the water pump and thermo 2X

o and one other thing i did notice. Yesterday when it was at 230..i would rev the car in nuetral and the temps would drop but as soon as the rev came down they would go right back to 230..which makes me think even more that coolant is somehow getting restricted somewhere.

 

everything you said is a common symptom of what happens when you incorrectly set the base timing on the distrib.

try retarding the timing. that should fix it.

also, check that the air dam is there under the radiator.

 

yea i went outside and checked my intake gaskets..i had an extra set and i could see which way there were mounted on my intake..came insdie and checked a photo of the engine and tehy are on the right way so

My timings at base 6 degrees.

However i took it to my machine shops mechanic. He did mention that my radaitor was small for my application. He said its a single core and that he had an iroc in the back with a 3 core radiator...anybody have any info on this?

 

take the 3 core if you can get it, get it completely cleaned out have all the deposits in it cleaned and will be run alot cooler then you are now

 

yea i figure this is my problem...bc if i start moving it will cool down. I guess it just cant disperse the heat fast enough while not moving.

 

if you have your stock 92 alum radiator......... dont change it.

it works better then the older copper/brass 3 core one you're thinking of swapping in.




if your stock radiator can keep engines making 3times the HP of yours cool, then i doubt its your problem.



btw, did you set the base timing with the timing connector unplugged, or plugged in?

 

set it to base with the connector unplugged