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Air Conditioning problem

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Old May 31, 2006 | 07:02 PM
  #1  
StevesBird89's Avatar
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Air Conditioning problem

I have a 89' Formula, the A/C didn't work when I bought it. I assumed the refrigerant was empty so I converted it to R-134. I get air, but it's not close to being cold. Suggestions where to start or the likelihood of what it may be? The compressor kicks on/off within a second of each other.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 08:59 PM
  #2  
bobdole369's Avatar
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From: South Florida (NW_Broward)
Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: Beat to heck 700R4
The compressor kicks on/off within a second of each other.
Do you mean that it turns on and off rapidly?

The compressor magnetic clutch should engage (you should see the front of the pulley turning round with the belt) and stay engaged. It ought to *eventually* disengage for a little while, then engage again. Note, my compressor never seems to disengage, maybe once a week I'll think I feel it disengage, but I've never observed it.

Your air should get cold within 30 seconds of the clutch engaging.

If all the parts are present (*working* compressor, evaporator, accumulator, condensor and tubing between), and your compressor engages, and your refrigerant is sealed, then it MUST get cold. There is virtually nothing electronic or electric about it, besides the low and high pressure switches and the fan.

If the clutch is engaging, and staying engaged then the switches are working well enough to get the condensor cold.

If the clutch engages and disengages rapidly, the most likely cause is a low refrigerant level, probably caused by a leak, or maybe you didn't run the compressor while filling the accumulator.

Rule out a leak and verify compressor operation with *proper* gauges... The ones on the $20 bottle of R134 they sell at walmart are not proper gauges... Use dye to find the leak. If there is no leak then your problem is most likely a failed compressor...
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Old May 31, 2006 | 09:38 PM
  #3  
Toehead's Avatar
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From: North Central Mass.
Car: 1985 Berlinetta
Engine: Megasquirted TPI
Transmission: Transgo 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Also, when you converted, did you adjust the pressure switch as per the tech article?
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 05:54 PM
  #4  
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From: Dodge City, KS/Buffalo, OK
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28/1999 Cavalier
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
If it was ran for too long with a low refrigerant level, then I bet your compressor is shot. The refrigerant also helps lube the compressor.. so just think of it like this, it's like running your engine for a long period of time with only 3 gts of oil, somethings going to go bad.

Might get that compressor checked before re-charging.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
AC not cold enough?

I have the same sort of problem with my 84 Trans Am. The coolent level is fine, the compressor works as advertised and there is no leak that a professional shop that serviced it can find. The condenser does get cold...but the air coming out of the vents is well...cool at best. It's not the frigid cold I'd expect. Any ideas? Takes forever to cool off the inside of the car.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #6  
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From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
Ozz if you converted to 134A the system in your T/A won't cool as efficently as it did with the R12 it was designed with.134A operates at higher pressures than R12 and that creates a problem with heat transfer from the evaporater in the cabin to the condensor in the nose.Think of it as running to high water pressure and the radiator not being able to disappate heat from the coolant.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Cool Ram...

They did convert it to 134a...something about environmental regulations! Who cares! I want cold!!!!

Ok, sorry, had to get that out. What can I do? Bigger radiator? New condenser? More fans?

For example, driving home today it was 104 here in Clovis new Mexico. 14 mile drive from work to home and the only reason I noticed the air coming out of the vents was cooling the interior was because I had stopped sweating. I used to get cold when I had the air on high.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 02:45 AM
  #8  
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From: SoCal
Car: 88' Camaro
Engine: V8 5.0L EFI
Transmission: Auto
Saved My Bacon!!

This thread saved my Bacon!!

I tried to convert my system to RC-134 using one of those kits from Autozone, but I missed one verry important step. I did not realize that you must keep the car on, and the air conditioning on while filling the system. (The instructions mentioned running the AC for 3 minutes, but did not mention keeping it on.) So like a dumba$$ I turned the car off, and tried to fill the Low-Side, but the meter was in the red. And every time I turned the AC on, the compressor would kick in for 2 or 3 seconds, then shut off.


As soon as I read this thread, I wen't back down to the Garage, and jumped the switch. BINGO!! Now my car is an Ice Box.

As far as the difference between RC-12 and RC-134, I can attest that there is very little difference in cooling. I have an old Dodge Pickup (85) which runs RC-12 and I couldn't tell the difference. (The pickup got a Professional Upgrade with Freeze-12 by my local shop... set me back $268)

This process was super easy, and I am thinking about converting my other vehicles to RC-134 as the need arises. (So.Cal is having an unseasonable summer, temps up to 97F in my area. And Im only 5 miles from the beach!!!)

Thanks for all the help!
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 07:23 AM
  #9  
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From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Hmm, then maybe with mine I just need to completely vent the system and start over? Hmm...you guys say it's supposed to be cold and I can attest that mine is not "cold".
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 08:19 PM
  #10  
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From: Erlanger, KY
Car: 1989 Iroc-z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt - 2.77
have you change the orifice tube in the high pressure line. if its clogged, you will lose cooling. there cheap and if it wasnt changed when you did the conversion, it could make the problem. if its fine and the compressor is running the way its suppose to and not getting cold inside, might have a bad compressor. i've seen them run and but not be cooling.
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #11  
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From: Pocahontas,Arkansas
Car: 84 Z28, 84 Silverado
Engine: 355 Mild
Transmission: 350th
Axle/Gears: 2.41 Gears and a Posi
Their biggest problem in converting these over is the condenser. The tube and fin type condensers on the R12 cars suck for 134 a. If you want Cold get a parallel flow condenser. then run a ford blue o tube.


The ford blue O tube is a good addition to any of are cars. Just tell the partman you want a O tube for a 89 bronco. they will show a red and blue.

Your looking at around $100 for the condenser and about the same to have your lines adapted to fit it.

The cooling will be like a modern car.
Attached Thumbnails Air Conditioning problem-condenser1.jpg  
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