Surge Tank Install
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Aiken, SC
Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Surge Tank Install
I have a road race only car that is prone to overheating.
The radiator is a 19 x 27 1/2 X 4 aluminum unit. One of the issue that i believe may be contributing to the overheating is air in the system.
The radiator cap is about 1/2 inch lower than the thermostat housing. This leads me to believe that any air in the system would migrate to the upper rad hose and not the top of the cap.
Of the surge tanks that I have seen, they all seem to attach to a radiator wiothout a filler neck and have the cap on the surge tank.
Is there a device that would allow attachment to my filler neck and move the filler neck to a remote location which is higher than the t stat housing.
I would rather not have to cut and modify my existing radiator.
Other point of interest...
I have run 40 below and it does not seem as good as water wetter.
The front of the radiator is well ducted, meaning that if a germ goes in the grill opening he is coming out of the back side of the radiator.
The under core support spoiler is old and tired and will be replaced. It has seen damage from going on and off the trailer.
I have the largest electric fan that I can fit behind the radiator.
Water pump is a moroso short aluminum.
Pully set up is similar to a dirt track application
T stat is 160 deg flavor and drilled.
Any help greatly appreciated based on racing experience. This motor operates between 3,500 and 7,000 for 20 minutes plus. Average rmp is about 6000.
The radiator is a 19 x 27 1/2 X 4 aluminum unit. One of the issue that i believe may be contributing to the overheating is air in the system.
The radiator cap is about 1/2 inch lower than the thermostat housing. This leads me to believe that any air in the system would migrate to the upper rad hose and not the top of the cap.
Of the surge tanks that I have seen, they all seem to attach to a radiator wiothout a filler neck and have the cap on the surge tank.
Is there a device that would allow attachment to my filler neck and move the filler neck to a remote location which is higher than the t stat housing.
I would rather not have to cut and modify my existing radiator.
Other point of interest...
I have run 40 below and it does not seem as good as water wetter.
The front of the radiator is well ducted, meaning that if a germ goes in the grill opening he is coming out of the back side of the radiator.
The under core support spoiler is old and tired and will be replaced. It has seen damage from going on and off the trailer.
I have the largest electric fan that I can fit behind the radiator.
Water pump is a moroso short aluminum.
Pully set up is similar to a dirt track application
T stat is 160 deg flavor and drilled.
Any help greatly appreciated based on racing experience. This motor operates between 3,500 and 7,000 for 20 minutes plus. Average rmp is about 6000.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Re: Surge Tank Install
Assuming their aluminum end tanks, the best bet would be to just buy a thread weld-on bung, and have a radiator show install that just below the radiators filler neck. Route that to a surge tank that has a pressure cap provision (I currently run a 1 qt tank from C&R that has a pressure cap). Run a higher pressure cap on the radiator than the surge tank, and for good measures, run a Y fitting between the radator and surge tanks overflow connection. You are correct on the assumption about the surge tanks getting paired with a capless radiator. That's how my C&R is.
I have never seen something that relocates a pressure cap via some form of block-off plate.
I have never seen something that relocates a pressure cap via some form of block-off plate.
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Apr 25, 2016 09:21 PM
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