BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Im planning on replacing my fan switch and my thermostat all at once because its starting to heat up here in AZ, also my thermostat is old, plus my housing is leaking and i figure i might as well change them both at the same time. My question is, What thermostat should i get? the 160? or the 180? what are the advantages/disadvantages?

I was also looking at a lower temperature fan switch from summit the 176 on 166 off one, does my fan switch and my thermostat have to match?

Thanks for the info

86firebird350

yes, you definately want your stat and fan switch to match. i swapped to a 160* stat with the corresponding 176/166 fan switch about a year ago now. while i believe that during the hot summers (made worse in a black car) in south carolina, i benefitted greatly from the 160 stat (stayed right at 160-165 when cruising), i had wished that for the winter i had a 180* stat. even though the winters here are mild, (hardly ever get snow, low temps rarely in teens and single digits) i hardly ever had a warm car when driving. the 160 stat makes the heater practically non existent.

i cant really comment on the fan switch. ive had problems with mine since its been on. havent yet determined if the switch itself is bad or there is not a good connection between the switch and the connector.

i will definately be switching to a 180* stat for next winter and will probably swap between that and the 160 during summer for the best cooling and warming characeristics.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

okay so i just ordered a 176 fan switch from summit and a 180 stat. Will this work right? i was told by a few people that while the stock is 195, and the 180 is close, i will have a period where " odd things will happen" if i dont adjust my ecu? is this right?(dont want to have to do) i was under the impression that the 180 stat and 176 fan switch would just keep me cooler, plus i couldnt find any 195 stats and the 180 seems sufficient

AMigs87IROCz

Well it is a toss up with the pros/cons of the t-stats.
By living in Arizona I don't think either would be a bad idea. I had a 160 in my camaro here in Rhode Island..humidity is a problem up here in the summer. The 160 kept the car cool but on the summer nights/fall and crisp spring evenings the car would practically never warm up. The car never left closed loop. It did mess w/fuel ecomomy and the idle of the vehicle...when it was cold the car didn't know how to respond with idle/throttle. Giving it more though it may inhibit fuel combustion...ect. I have a Hypertech thermoswitch...its been about 5 years since install so forgive me for not remembering the details....

On my second time around I did put a 180 t-stat in....M-I-N-T!!! So I figure it really matters to the car/driver where and what would be appropriate...

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

so how aoubt here in az?blazing temps during the days, hot at night? the 180 would be sufficient correct? and in the winter it shouldnt affect it too much because its only a 15 degree difference. If it does though i can always swap my thermostat out when it begins to cool off a bit. Other than that would my ECU go haywire on the 180 with my current conditions?

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

anyone? need to know before i screw up my car lol

LAFireboyd

iTrader: (3)

Ideally, you'd want the stat temp to be lower than(or at least the same as) the fan temp, but not higher than the fan temp, as you've ordered.

For example, GM set it up with a 195* stat, and a fan temp of 220-ish*. I'm not saying those temps are ideal or necessary, because you can safely run cooler without any issues. But the difference between the temps is the important thing, with the stat temp being lower.

With what you've ordered, a 176* fan switch and a 180* stat, the fan will be running even before the stat opens up. That means the fan will be running all the time because the engine will be trying to run at, at least, 180*. So there will be quite a struggle going on to control the operating temp, with the stat most-likely winning. Then with the fan running all the time, the fan motor or relay will eventually burnout. And if that happens, the situation could become your username!

For warm climates like yours(AZ) and mine(SoCal), you can safely run stats of 160*, 170* or 180*, providing your fan temp is about 20* higher. Or you can even keep the stock fan temp. That'll work fine with the new lower stat, too. But whichever you use, with the difference between the two temp ranges, the stat will keep the engine around that temp range, and the fan will only turn-on when hotter conditions exist. And that's what you'd want.

So if you wanna keep that 176* fan switch that you've ordered, it would be better to run a 160* stat. Otherwise, if you wanna keep the 180* stat, it would be better to run a 200* fan switch.

But whatever stat/fan combo you run, just keep the stat lower, and it should work well.

86firebird350

good advice.

FormulaL98

I replaced the thermostat with a 180 in my formula and have had zero problems using it. although again ohio dosent see nearly the heat AZ does but i also installed a edelbrock victor waterpump at the same time. now my car cruises at 140 i havent done a fan switch as i still need it to get around 220 for emissions checks. i think wiring a manual switch to one of the fans would be a good idea.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

dammit...looks like im expressing the fan switch back to summit lol, i'll just have them swap it for the higher temp range

New rule for me, think before you click "confirm order" lol

Rumblrr

Hi where did you get your 160 stat and fan switch