Hi Guys,

I'm in the UK and have recently purchased a 91 3.1 V6 Firebird with 80k on the clock. I'm still finding my way around and checking things as I go, so there could be many more questions to ask! :-)

I topped up the coolant with water until it reached the "Fill Cold" mark. I've since driven the car about 20 miles and the coolant has gone! So I'm wondering if one or both of the cylinder head gaskets have gone? Also praying it's not a cracked block from reading some of the other postings on here!

The engine temperature floats around the half mark on the gauge between 100 and 220. I've checked the oil and it's very black as I don't know when it was last changed, it looks fine though, runny as opposed to thick. The oil filler cap has no gunge on it at all and looking into the head, no gunge there either.

When starting from cold there does appear to be white smoke or at least smoke but that could have been due to it being a frosty morning, about 1-2 deg C. Otherwise and when the engine is warm I can't see any white smoke at all, it's acting normal I'd say.

The only thing I have noticed when removing the radiator cap is, firstly, the coolant level in the radiator is just below the cap and secondly, it's a rusty colour perhaps milky.

Does anyone have any thoughts please? I've attached photos below...

Thanks for any help and it's appreciated,

Ian

 

ian, how many digits are on your speedometer? If it`s 5 plus one for 10th`s, you may have 160k miles on the car. If you don`t have a shop manual for the car you should get one if you plan on keeping it. Is there any way to verify the true mileage on the car? It sounds like you may have coolant in the oil. It also looks like the car has not been taken care of so if you have not done so yet, visually check all the hoses for leaks, look for rust stains around them and the clamps. Check to see that the coolant reservoir is not leaking and check /feel around the passenger side floor inside the car for a heater core leak. I am trying to think of things you can do that are cheap or free until you find out for sure where your coolant is going. Top off your radiator, run the car until it`s at operating temperature, park it over some cardboard/newspaper, something that coolant would drip onto that you could see. If no leak is found, you will need to flush out the cooling system with a mild cleaner. Ask your local auto parts dealer or get a recommendation on this site, flush out and clean the cooling system and rinse several times. Get a bottle of Bar`s Leak and divide the bottle in half. Pour it into another larger container, it contains small pellets and oil that if used correctly will seal most small radiator holes and head gasket holes. I`ve used it for over 40 years and it will work if used properly. Take about half of the oil and pellet mix, stir it well and after filling your cooling system with water and starting the car, slowly add the Bar`s Leak to the radiator. Don`t use more than half right now. When the Bar`s Leak is in the radiator, run the engine at fast idle and top off the radiator , install the radiator cap and go for a slow drive around your street. Run the car for a half hour or so, bring it home and park it over your cardboard/newspaper again and let it sit overnight. Check it the next day and update your post with results. This about the easiest and cheapest first step I know of. If your coolant level is ok the day after, we can go over the next procedures to get you back on the road. I would advise against using anti freeze just yet, wait until a diagnoses is found.

 

Well you need to
1) change your oil if its black
2) Flush the cooling system if its all rusty and milky.

Then you need to LOOK for leaks, look for spots on the driveway, etc. White smoke could indicate that you are burning some coolant that would be a head gasket. My dad's buick the coolant just disappears mysteriously doesnt burn any and doesnt leak any, i dont know where it goes.

 

lid on the coolant reservoir missing/? evaporation?!?

 

Hi Guys,

No the lid to both the radiator and coolant reservoir are both tightly in place!

I do seem to get a fair amount of white smoke on start up from a cold engine that's been sat for a day or two but it's also quite cold on UK mornings at the moment, say between 32 and 46F. Although it doesn't take long for the smoke to disappear. The engine gets to 200F ish and never moves from there!

In the meantime I'm gonna flush the engine/radiator and put some new coolant and leak sealer in, as one of the guys suggested. Longterm I might do a 3.4 swap :-)

Thanks, appreciated.

Ian

 

The picture of the dipsitck shows black oil so I would definetly change it ASAP. You mentioned a milky appearance to the coolant. Is there every anything similar on the oil dipstick?

 

just in case it hasnt been said yet.
Top off the radiator, and fill the bottle. Also it wouldnt hurt to replace the rad cap. On this type of system as the temp rises the coolant expands as it does that, the cap vents the excess coolant into the bottle. Then as the engine cools the coolant is sucked back into the rad. The rad cap is what regulates this opperation. So if you cap is messed up it could vent the excess out, but then not let the coolant back in. I replace mine as normal maitiance every two years.

Aslo if your trans is an auto, check that fluid as well. The trans has a oil cooler that is part of the radiator. So if the cooler breaks internally you can have coolant get into the trans, and trans fluid into the coolant.

 

Hi MidWest!

Thanks for the information and sorry it has taken me so long to update the thread!

Having looked at the trans oil, it looks just like new oil does, smells very metalic, bit unpleasant really and is very runny! There certainly doesn't seem to be any redness in it from what you can see in the radiator, the pic I included on a previous posting.

I've not actually topped up the coolant reservoir for a few weeks now but the level in the radiator itself has remained constant. So I'm making the assumption that it's not using coolant!

Ian

 

if you dont have the tools
go to a shop
1.have the cooling system pressure checked (for leaks)
2. do a block test (uses a blue fluid that turns green with hydrocarbons)
this is attatched to the filler neck or wherever your rad cap is

shouldnt cost more than $60 at a reputable shop

these v-6's have terrible problems with intake gaskets leaking too