Ok, so i retrofitted my AC system, blue cap on the canister on the firewall, red on the lower line. i got some r-134a freon+stop leak, 2 cans actually. i put one can in it, and i heard a leak where i did the retro fit, so in fixing the leak i lost most of the first can. so yesterday i added can 2. the air comming from the vents was a little bit cooler, but still pretty hot. i went under the hood and started checking things. the canister was slightly cooler than normal, but all of the AC lines were pretty hot. the lines on the compressor were REALLY hot. so i checked the air in the lines....the air at the back of the compressor was pretty warm really, and the canaister air was slightly cooler. whats going on here??? should i add another can of freeze, or do i have another issue??? i do hear the compressor kicking off and on, its kind of noisy, but not as noisy as some i've heard before. PLEASE HELP!!! :-) thanks in advance for any help.

 

Is it kicking on and off quickly?

 

yes, its on and off quickly, every once in a while it will kick on and keep running for a couple minutes, but then it's back to cycling on and off

 

SOund slike the system might have more than 2lbs... Do you have a set of R124a guages...? There are specific pressures you should be running for diffrent humiditys and outside temps..

 

Mine did that when it was way low on pressure, with R134a, you might want to hook up a guage to it and see if it is in fact low. Everything you described, between the hot lines, the compressor kicking on and off sounds like low pressure to me. As for what it should do? When I got the pressure right, it stayed at a constant 50 degrees on max with the fan on high. The canister will "sweat", and the top line will be freezing cold and sweating too.

 

Excuse me, I meant to say low on refrigerant

 

ok so i dont have any pressure gages yet, to adjust the press is on the back of the canister, where the switch plugs in, correct??? how much should i be running? 22? or so? ill see if i cant get a bottle with a gage on it.

 

If you need to bleed it, which I doubt, then just do it like it was a tire with too much air pressure. If you need to add, then add till the guage reads the right ammount and you should be good right there.

 

ok..not sure how much pressure it should be running anyways. i'mpretty sure i saw somebody say it should be 21-23 ??

 

I really don't know, all I know is when I hook up my guage to the canister it reads right where it should be, after I bled it a bit. Now it's like it was brand new.

 

so i found some threads here that said between 35 and like 44 psi. <shrug> i guess ill see what the gage says :-)

 

35 PSI will produce an evaporator temp of about 40*F. 44 PSI will produce about 49*F. The discharge air will be about 10*F warmer depending on outside temperature, interior temperature, sunload, and humidity. For a correctly functioning COLD A/C you want the pressure to be down around 24 psi. If you rev the engine to a constant 2,000 rpm with the air on max recirculate, the cycling switch should be set to cycle the compressor off at 24 psi. Any lower and you risk freezing up the evaporator. The evaporator temperature will be around 30*F when the compressor cycles off and the air about 40*F at the vents on HIGH.

 

What he said lol.

 

lol...so i put a gage on it, its about 26-27 psi with the compresor off, kicks up to prolly 40 or so with it on. it appears still low on freon,s o i'm gonna pick up 2 more cans (10 oz) and see what happens. hopefully i cna clsoe this thread after that:-)

 

so we added 2 cans (12 oz) of 134-a. its ALOT cooler in there, noticed the belt was loose too, so i tightened that up a bit, also turned the pressure down to about 24 psi. seems to be alot colder now. patrick said we should prolly add one more can, if that, and it should be good. so i guess you could prolly close this thread, seems liek the issue is fixed for now :-) thanks guys for all your help!!!


----------
oh yea, and it seems to blow colder when tis not on HIGH in the vents, i turn it down one notch on the dial and it blows cooler...for some reason. heh

 

so i've got the system full of 134-a...and its nice and cold when i'm sitting in a parkinglot, garage, or at a stoplight. but as soon as i start moving it egts hot real fast. the canister is so cold it's sweatin liek crazy, and i would love to lay my ehad on it right about now, but the air comming out doesnt get cold at all while i'm driving. WTF?!?!?!? somebody suggested checking the hot/cold door behind the passenger kick panel to make sure it's not blocked up. any other dieas? why would it act liek that, cold...then hot as soon as i start moving???? HELP!!!?!!!

 

OK, so after dropping the panel, i found a backyard mechanic hackjob repair. somebody cracked the case, and just slapped a bunch of duct tape on it, but never hooked the cable up. ill post pics of it here later on WHAT NOT TO DO when repairing your system lol. thanks to everyone for your help, now its time to figure out if i can repair the cable conenction :-)

 

Glad to see it all worked out for ya man. As for the panel, have fun, did it to mine. It's kind of a bitch.

 

yup, i used some plastic epoxy to seal the cracks, but the tab for the hot/control is broke right off, so not sure il be able to fix that :-\ but ive got ice cold air now! hahaha

 

Uh oh, sounds like you have my problem.


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ble-valve.html

 

YEAH..its broke right off....damnit...lol

 

I'm gonna get another heater box, but whether or not I have the skill to put it in remains to be seen.

 

if you were closer to charlotte i could put that heater box in for you :-)