Okay, after having my A/C not work for 2 years and working on my car alot, I need to get rid of this thing already. Nothing but a PITA and extra weight.

What all can I take off? How hard is it?

I know I need an AC delete box. Anything else?

 

Money...and women to massage you while you do manly things to your car.

 

I am not worried about needing those, I have spares... Ha

My dad once asked me if I ever go out and pick up chicks while out cruising... I told him, picking up chicks is nothing, getting them out is a whole another story...

Back to Topic. Anyone have any HELPFUL info?

 

My info was helpful. From what i figure out....Is.

You have the pipes that come off the Radiator you have to plug? So you will need to drain it. You will have to Bleed your system(at night). Just depress the stem(like a tire) that will drain almost all the r12.

You will need an a/c delete pulley. I would advise keeping your compressor just in case u need it someday. Find a diagram to rerun your belts i think? I know there is a tech forum about it.

Chase your wiring and fuses and remove your unneeded. The a/c delete may have a blower motor? May have to rewire for that.

I am unsure if you are able to get a shorter belt and bypass the a/c pulley or not. Having a pulley though instead of the compressor will mean you don't have to worry about the bearings locking up as easily. TMK I think that all the heater Mech's are vac controlled. So Maybe...you might be able to jack the faceplate outta somethin else?

 

That is what I was thinking, mainly I need to know if I need to rewire anything, and what I need to plug. and how much I can remove. I know to remove the basics, but I am not too sure when I get around the heater, as mine stills works great and I would like to keep it.

 

You can get by with just changing the heater box and use your existing wiring. Make sure you get a non-A/C box with the same blower motor connectors as your car has. The earlier cars used blade connections while the later had "weatherpack" connectors. You can get a replacement motor from the parts store but it just adds extra cost. The motors are not interchangeable between A/C and non-A/C boxes.

Its fairly easy to remove the box on the firewall. Most of the bolts are on the engine side but there are a few inside the car below the heater core box and behind the firewall pad. The firewall pad is pre-cut for accessing the bolts.

You can also remove the condensor in front of the radiator, all the freon lines/hoses and the A/C compressor and brackets. If you have a car with the serpentine belt setup you'll need to install an idler pulley in place of the A/C compressor.

 

'82-89 non-A/C cars have cable operated controls. '90-92 non-A/C are vacuum controlled and pretty much the same setup as A/C cars.

You can use the A/C controls with the non-A/C blower box. All you're really changing is the box the air travels through from the blower motor. With the A/C box the air travels through the A/C evap core first before entering the heater core box. With the non-A/C box it simply goes directly inside the heater core box.

 

Okay, so a box from a non-ac car from 82-89? Sounds good. What all should I grab when I take it apart?

 

The metal blower box should work from '82-92. I'm not sure when they changed the connector on the blower motor. My '84 Trans Am parts car is a non-A/C car and it has the blade connectors.

How "factory correct" do you want to be? Everything under the dash is different on '82-89 non-A/C.

There are some pics of the non-A/C setup here.
http://82firebirdta.proboards104.com...splay&thread=4

 

I just grabbed the heater box and blower motor, I even kept the screws from it to use in mine.

A word of caution also, do not get pissed at your controls and rip them out like I did hoping to swap in the cable operated ones which I have not. Now I couldn't operate the doors or use the blower motor if I wanted to.

Someday I need to track down a diagram of how to reroute all those different color vacuum lines so I can get my controls working again, **** me.
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I like the look of the non-ac dash and no vents but I realized every non ac dash I came across was much worse than mine and gave up the goose.

 

Can I use my A/c controls to get the heater working? AC doesn't work anyway so its not like I use the AC side anyway.

Doesn't need to be year correct, as long as it works properly and is easy to set up.

 

Yes, you can still use your A/C controls. Just leave everything inside the car alone and swap in the non-A/C box and blower fan.

 

Okay cool, That is what I was a little worried about.

 

And that's where I messed up.

Does anyone have a pic showing where and how I should reinstall my vacuum lines?

Heater core going in soon and maybe two deletes might work Bully

 

Want me to pull mine out and take pictures of the lines for you?

 

Next Mission, get the AC delete box from the JY! I hope I can find one.

 

Look in the V6 cars, they have them all day long!

If you send me a pic that would be sweet bro, no rush, but I should fix that one of these years. I'm getting a new heater core soon too...

 

Can the controls inside the car be easily swapped? If so, what year of car would be best to take them from?
I hate having A/C controls but no A/C...

 

The easiest to install would be the vacuum operated non-A/C controls from a '90-92 car.

The '82-89 cable operated controls would require you to remove the dash board and swap out the entire heater core box for the cable operated non-A/C version.

 

the way i see it there are 3 ways to get an ac delete box

1st - Junkyard, should be pretty cheap but is a rare find.

2nd - ebay, i've seen them on there before as cheap as $90(i almost got one but fell asleep 5 min before the auction ended, i know right...)

3rd - you can go here http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/82...rytrays-1.aspx and buy one for $150(theres also acdelete.com but is $150 as well)
I chose to order mine from hawks shipping was $15 so not too bad i should get it on monday, if you want to wait i can always tell you how the hawks one fits in and everything.

anyway goodluck with your ac delete

 

Well, I got a box at the Pick N Pull for a grand total of... $15.40 WITH the blower motor (know the guy at the PNP)... I have it all sanded down and I have started to paint it. I will take pictures of everything in case someone is looking to do this in the future.

 

Around here, the non-A/C boxes are common in jy's. One junkyard told me $50 for the box/resistors/controls/motor... but I knew that was a really bad deal, so I went to a different jy and they told me $20, or $20 worth of scrap metal, for the same stuff.
I'd say at least 1/3 of the cars at local jy's have non-A/C boxes.

 

If I see anymore of them I will probably end up snagging one for my buddy. I am hoping the paint turns out good on it.

 

knowing the work involved, that one from hawks looks to be a killer deal... that being said, I would give you one more:

4th- make your own:
http://mpikas.blogspot.com/2007/12/m...3rd-gen-f.html

 

EDIT: Posted AC Delete Box For Sale. Box SOLD 2-9-09

 

???
I got a box at the Pick N Pull for $15.40...

 

LMAO, I read just a couple posts up before I posted...its funny that you never think just 2 more posts and I wouldnt have had to post anything.

Anyway if anybody else is interested its still there and has never been installed.

 

Haha. I am so broke that I cant afford a $30 AC delete pulley. That is all I am waiting on and my AC goes Bye Bye!

 

I got the pulley and the ac delete box. Am I going to need to buy any plugs or caps for coolant lines or anything? If so what size?

 

no

 

did you pull the wires from the non ac car? also switch the resistors (i think thats what theyre called) its a little spring inside the box held on by to 7 or 8mm bolts so you can keep all 4 speeds

 

You shouldn't need any wires from the non-A/C car, as long as you keep the same resistors that were already in your A/C box, and put them in the non-A/C box.

 

the pig tails are different

 

When I did my swap, I didn't need to change any wires, or take any from the donor car. The resistors might be different in the donor car, so his fan speed selector wouldn't work correctly if his originals weren't used.