Okay, first, I'm pissed, I have replaced everything but the kitchen sink to get this dang fan to cut on, but nothing I have done has worked! I am afraid iI might have a violent reaction toward the car if I cant get it fixed. I know it is possible to set up a manual switch that allows the driver to turn the fan on and off does anyone have any instructions onhow to install this setup??

 

All you really have to do is run a single wire from the fan relay (back near the firewall on the driverside of my 92 camaro anyway) then back inside and to your switch and then the switch to ground. You ground the relay to turn the fan on. I installed my rocker switch in one of the dash panels where various factory options are put in (it's a little removable plastic piece) by the steering wheel. Looks completely stock.

There's not much to it, you just need to identify your fan relay for your particular year/make.

edit: also, if you've tried other things, are you sure the fan even works? have you tried directly connecting it to the battery ? Does it come on with the AC....if the AC works that is.

 

Fan works, I took it to advanced auto and they checked it while I watched and the motor turns both ways. I did get it hooked up, though i completely bypassed the relay and instead put an inline heavy duty fuse on the power, I hooked it directly to thew battery with a switch in between the battery and fan, works now but not quite as well as I would like, I may go to dual fans.

 

Bypassing the relay means your switch has to be heavy duty or it will kill itself after little use. It also means you have to run a heavier gauge wire all the way into the car. Though, since you already did that, i guess you dont care

Either way, a single fan should be more than enough to cool your V6, even in SC. If you're still running > 220 degrees and your gauge is correct, then something else is wrong, not the fan setup.

 

Heavy guage wire (10 to be exact) was used along with a high amperage switch (20+ amperes) all this plus it has a heavy duty inline fuse BEFORE the switch. so I think that ought to cover it.
BTW: I'm young not stupid, you don't take the electronics that run your car lightly.

=)

EDIT:
It's still running hot which is odd the water pump is working and the thermostat is opening (though maybe a little late need to check what temp) as the upper radiator hose is hot and has significant pressure in it. the only clue i can even guess may mean something is that the radiator itself is not hot nor is the radiator cap, and with the engine temps i'm reading both should be almost scalding, but now i can touch them and theyre almost cold. does this indicate a clog somewhere or something much worse?? temp guage reads about halfway when stopped for about 2-3 minutes ( we have the longest lights here for some reason) and continues to slowly climb. however i can open the cap and all the fluid (hot**) flows into the radiator as the air is let out. so my suspicion is that while the fluid is being removed from the radiator, it is somehow not being let in through the upper hose. any thoughts??

 

Is there a reason though that you bypassed the relay? You could have gotten away with a much thinner wire and a low amp (and likely nicer looking) switch without any need for an inline fuse.

 

No, I tried several times to get the switch to work through the relay but every time i did it didn't work, i think there may be a short in my fans wiring. i just didn't feel like digging all the wiring out of the fuse box and trying to find a short in that mess. it does work though it runs bout 5 degrees cooler, just the possible clog in my upper radiator is of concern to me. also Monster* makes some great wiring ( thats what i used) thats heavy but still very flexible and durable (crush proof), it does help when your dad does high end stereo work as a hobby =).


And whats wrong with an led indicator missile switch with a red cover on my center console behind the shift lever???
( not too mexican though lol this one actually functions)