***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,940
Likes: 363
From: Las Vegas
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Re: ***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!
You said you got that water pump from Jegs? I just looked at Jegs' website, and I searched by car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro; then I searched by part: water pumps.
57 water pumps came up: all brands; all styles(short and long); both rotations(standard and reverse); and all finishes(natural and polished). I can see where, if someone didn't know EXACTLY what he needed, it would be easy to end-up picking the wrong pump.
It seems like Jegs should be willing to work with you to fix this, so I hope you've contacted them about taking back the pump, or, at least, exchanging it for a correct pump. That way, you can have the nice new (correct) pump that you want to match that nice-looking engine you're building. Is your TPI assembly chromed or ceramic-coated? It looks nice.
57 water pumps came up: all brands; all styles(short and long); both rotations(standard and reverse); and all finishes(natural and polished). I can see where, if someone didn't know EXACTLY what he needed, it would be easy to end-up picking the wrong pump.
It seems like Jegs should be willing to work with you to fix this, so I hope you've contacted them about taking back the pump, or, at least, exchanging it for a correct pump. That way, you can have the nice new (correct) pump that you want to match that nice-looking engine you're building. Is your TPI assembly chromed or ceramic-coated? It looks nice.
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Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 820
Likes: 1
From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: ***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!
You said you got that water pump from Jegs? I just looked at Jegs' website, and I searched by car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro; then I searched by part: water pumps.
57 water pumps came up: all brands; all styles(short and long); both rotations(standard and reverse); and all finishes(natural and polished). I can see where, if someone didn't know EXACTLY what he needed, it would be easy to end-up picking the wrong pump.
It seems like Jegs should be willing to work with you to fix this, so I hope you've contacted them about taking back the pump, or, at least, exchanging it for a correct pump. That way, you can have the nice new (correct) pump that you want to match that nice-looking engine you're building. Is your TPI assembly chromed or ceramic-coated? It looks nice.
57 water pumps came up: all brands; all styles(short and long); both rotations(standard and reverse); and all finishes(natural and polished). I can see where, if someone didn't know EXACTLY what he needed, it would be easy to end-up picking the wrong pump.
It seems like Jegs should be willing to work with you to fix this, so I hope you've contacted them about taking back the pump, or, at least, exchanging it for a correct pump. That way, you can have the nice new (correct) pump that you want to match that nice-looking engine you're building. Is your TPI assembly chromed or ceramic-coated? It looks nice.
thx for the comp on the engine, its chromed, the previous owner did it, its nice but i think they could of done a better job
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Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 820
Likes: 1
From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: ***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!






pleeease dont say it i know all you guys want but pls save the we told you so...lol... i just replaced the water pump HUUUUUGE Difference.....I'M never trusting jegs description again, lesson learned haha......THANX EVERY1 FOR THE INPUT I really appreciate it
Re: ***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!
we fricking told you so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! when **** goes bad like that ,overheating for instance and its wasnt prior then you need to ask,what changed.in this case one thing was your water pump.always look for changes first. your thermo and fans were good prior,no reason to think they wouldnt be after an engine swap.
imho,never buy chrome **** unles youre building a show car. 1,if the mating surfaces are chrome you can almost always be assured of a leak there.dont ask why but they do. 2,ive found unless you get top shelf stuff alot of them chrome items are cheap *** **** to boot.
imho,never buy chrome **** unles youre building a show car. 1,if the mating surfaces are chrome you can almost always be assured of a leak there.dont ask why but they do. 2,ive found unless you get top shelf stuff alot of them chrome items are cheap *** **** to boot.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 820
Likes: 1
From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: ***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!
we fricking told you so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! when **** goes bad like that ,overheating for instance and its wasnt prior then you need to ask,what changed.in this case one thing was your water pump.always look for changes first. your thermo and fans were good prior,no reason to think they wouldnt be after an engine swap.
imho,never buy chrome **** unles youre building a show car. 1,if the mating surfaces are chrome you can almost always be assured of a leak there.dont ask why but they do. 2,ive found unless you get top shelf stuff alot of them chrome items are cheap *** **** to boot.
imho,never buy chrome **** unles youre building a show car. 1,if the mating surfaces are chrome you can almost always be assured of a leak there.dont ask why but they do. 2,ive found unless you get top shelf stuff alot of them chrome items are cheap *** **** to boot.
it was aluminum not chromed... but thanx i'll keep that in mind i was thinkin on buyin a chromed one lol Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 9
From: Northern, CA
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: ***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!
Glad to here you have it figured out. Here's what I did for some extra cooling.=
I bought a fan from pick and pull that would fit inside of the front bracket against the front of the radiator. Then I reversed the wires so the fan would push air through the radiator .Kragens sells a relay and switch that is for this kind of setup.(any auto parts store should)I believe its also used to wire up axillary running lights.(comes with full instructions.) So I ran the manual switch to the dash. Its run through a power line thats only hot with the key on. That way I can shut it off manually if I want to with the switch. But it comes on automatically with start up. The stock fan only comes on when the temp. gets to 204. At that point both fans are running. (The stock fan switch is set at 220 or 230 I think. )Thats to hot IMO. I replaced the stock fan switch with a 204 degree switch instead. (fits where the stock switch was. Its a direct after market replacement.(At Kragens, BWD brand ,part # TFS8) So far Its really helped a lot. Car stays at 180 most of the time and never above 220even in heavy traffic.) By the way I also have a Derally combo cooler for the trans and engine oil. That is also installed on the back side ( engine side of the radiator) between the stock fan and radiator. Last but not least is the 180 thermostat. The stock thermostat is 195. 160 is to low IMO. I have never seen a 170. So 180 is gust wright for me.
I bought a fan from pick and pull that would fit inside of the front bracket against the front of the radiator. Then I reversed the wires so the fan would push air through the radiator .Kragens sells a relay and switch that is for this kind of setup.(any auto parts store should)I believe its also used to wire up axillary running lights.(comes with full instructions.) So I ran the manual switch to the dash. Its run through a power line thats only hot with the key on. That way I can shut it off manually if I want to with the switch. But it comes on automatically with start up. The stock fan only comes on when the temp. gets to 204. At that point both fans are running. (The stock fan switch is set at 220 or 230 I think. )Thats to hot IMO. I replaced the stock fan switch with a 204 degree switch instead. (fits where the stock switch was. Its a direct after market replacement.(At Kragens, BWD brand ,part # TFS8) So far Its really helped a lot. Car stays at 180 most of the time and never above 220even in heavy traffic.) By the way I also have a Derally combo cooler for the trans and engine oil. That is also installed on the back side ( engine side of the radiator) between the stock fan and radiator. Last but not least is the 180 thermostat. The stock thermostat is 195. 160 is to low IMO. I have never seen a 170. So 180 is gust wright for me.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Apr 30, 2010 at 10:17 PM. Reason: add info.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 820
Likes: 1
From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: ***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!
yea i was thinking bout something like that, my dually has that setup
although i dnt know if running it at 170 all the time its optimal for a 350 engine
although i dnt know if running it at 170 all the time its optimal for a 350 engine Re: ***OVERHEATING PROBLEM. SOS!!!!
Break in is a very touchy subject for cooling issues. Bottom line the only way in my opinion to break in a flat tappet cam is to first drain your cooling system and fill it with water then get your garden hose stick it in where your radiator cap goes turn it on to a small flow, open the pet **** of your radiator and let it drain. Keep the hose running enough to where it is overflowing out of you radiator. You have to do this while breaking in a flat tappet cam because there is an intense amount of heat created from this procedure. Do this and you will, I mean you really will be fine.
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