Is there alot of difference between the standard and heavy duty water pumps? I see they are the same price $30. I figured the heavy duty one would be more expensive, but it is the same price as the standard water pump.

And any preference for brand from a local auto parts store? They are all the same price new Duralast and new ASC. Anyone know if the Duralast or ASC is aluminum or iron? The one on now is all rusted out.

 

Bump. ??

 

Is everyone on their OEM water pump or just run a Stewart?

 

everyone goes elsewhere and buys from a different company... ... I am not a fan of autozone products, to each their own though... if you buy from autozone, make sure you have a lifetime warranty... if your water pump goes within the first 6 months or so, I would demand a refund.. .take your money and run to a different auto parts store... I am not sure on the HD and standard, they may be different sizes... one might have a longer neck...

 

I'm thinking about going with the ASC from Advance. It looks like Advance actually sells the actual branded part. Where as alot of Autozone stuff is Duralast, to where you don't know who made it. I have heard Advance's quality is better than Autozone.

I'm mainly interested in the Standard vs. Heavy Duty. But it looks like the Heavey Duty uses better bearings. But I just don't see why they both are the same price. Usually the HD is higher priced.

 

well you could google each brand and find their respective manufacturers then compare information straight from their page...

 

personally i wouldnt ever buy a pump for a parts store, maybe napa or nationals, but never advance otr autozone. All cheap rebuilds. I mean, how good can it be for 30bux?

they will both be iron, not aluminum

i owuld get a good aftermarket aluminum, stewart, edelbrock, ect.

 

I dont see a reason to go aftermarket with a waterpump unless you want to save the weight. I've used autozone parts for plenty of repairs, there pretty good about most things Alternators, waterpumps,starters, the normal things that go out. I used to work there and the only thing that gets returned are batteries, clutches, brake parts, and shocks and those are normal wear items.

 

These aren't rebuilds. They are brand new. Napa sells alot of junk as well. Though I do think their stuff is over priced. I just don't see the point in spending $100-$200 on a fancy third gen water pump. Plus with the stewart, you have to run a special thermostat. Not really interested in doing that. All I've ever run is parts store water pumps. The one on there is now over 5 years old. I just plan on replacing it when I have the timing chain replaced.

On the Corvettes L98 engine. The OEM aluminum water pump is Airtex and is only $30-$40 brand new.

 

The thing everyone has to keep in mind as well about the parts stores. Is they have cheap junk 1 year warranty, mid level 2 year warranty, and new top of the line limited lifetime warranty.

Alot of people get the junk Valucraft, then bash the parts stores when it breaks. I think it is best to get the top of the line for minimal problems. Not saying you can't have any problems with say Duralast Gold, but it will be severely reduced compared to cheap Valucraft.

Though, from what I've read. Advance is supposed to have better quality parts. I just got a Moog ball joint there. Autozone doesn't have Moog. I think thiers is rebranded TRW.

What brake parts did you have returned? I need to get some rotors.

Also, I've got a 5 year old alternator from Autozone that is still running. 5 years ago, I had just had it replaced at a shop with one from Napa. A couple of months later I'm out of town, and I go to start my car. And the battery is dead. Got a new battery and noticed the volts were low, so that means bad alternator after just a month. So, I had to turn that one in as a core to Autozone so I could get a working alternator to get home. I was mad that day as getting that Napa alternator installed was a $100 waste as I couldn't use the warranty since I was out of town.

 

You gave up too quickly... you could have probably called your local Napa and then had them call the Napa you were at, and give them a BS story about how you're a loyal Napa customer, ....

and on the Autozone level of quality products, I do agree, which is why I suggested if the purchase was made at AZ, to go with the one that offered a lifetime warranty...

 

Well, at the time I didn't know much about cars. I had plans to do something out of town, and I went a day early. Good thing I did since it decided to crap out on me the day before instead of the day of. And it was in the afternoon. I had no cell phone at the time. I called a Taxi to take me to the closest auto parts store because at the time I thought it was a bad battery since my alternator had went out just a few month prior and I had drained it. Installed the new battery and noticed the volts were still low. So, I couldn't drive far. So, I drove to the same Autozone to charge the battery up and get a new alternator. I had plans for the next day, it was getting late, so I was interested in getting it fixed ASAP.

And yes, both water pumps I was looking at have a life time warranty. I think the Duralast is made by Fenco. And Advance is ASC. I couldn't find much out, but ASC has a website. And found some good reviews. So, I think I'll just go with ASC. I guess I'll call them to figure out what the difference is between the Standard and Heavy Duty.

I also plan on getting some rotors. From what I've read, it seems the Duralast are made by Aimco. $50 with a 2 year warranty. Advance has some Wearever for $30 and 2 year warranty. Napa has $50 with 1 year warranty. Thinking about going with the Duralast.

I'd say I've got Napa rotors on now as the shop I had went to got their parts from Napa, and that is when I was replacing 6-7 different items 2-3 times within a year. So I was in the shop getting the same Napa part replaced at least once a month for a year or so. Anyways, I noticed these rotors are all rusted out inside to where it looks like metal is flaking off the fins. So, I may just try the Duralast.

 

Last summer I bought a Bosche WP for 25 bucks at pepboys. They were the cheapest, and I think the only ones in my area with a LT warranty. Go figure.

 

HV aluminum water pumps. save around 10LBS and the propellers are sealed.
as soon as you install.. this style pump you will drop 18 deg
you must install a coil IN your lower hose or it will collapse

 

Is it really worth all the work, who really has heating problems due to not enough flow. About the LT warranty autozone starts that on their mid grade products and you can exchange your parts anywhere since its all on a global database.

 

Yeah I know. I always hear of people saying to get a HV or super expensive Stewart water pump. When the OEM design has worked just fine for the past 10 years, so I don't see the point. If you are having over heating issues, you need to get that fixed instead of trying to bandaid it with a HV water pump. Though obviously you need to watch out for the crap bottom line rebuilt water pumps as you don't really want to replace it once or year or something.

The thing I don't like about Duralast, is it is like AC Delco. You don't know who makes it, and they change companies all the time.

 

well if your car is stock leave a stock pump.....
if you have headers, cam and more stock will not suffice!!!
but for almost the same price... why would you not use a aluminum pump save 10LBS
Iron rust's and look terrible>>> and who wants a reman WP
AND all what work!!!! if your replacing a stock.. it's the same amount of WORK

 

The pump I'm looking at is NEW. ASC water pump at Advance. NOT REBUILT.

It is $30. What new aluminum WP is there for $30? The only ones I know of are the expensive Stewart or something.

I would consider a new aluminum WP if it is around $30. But I'm not worried about it looking rusted. The rest of the car looks worse. Haha. I'm just worried about keeping it running.

 

Here you go....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...#ht_4324wt_951
I absolutely purchase quality parts.. powermaster starters, alternators ad so on...
parts like this do not need name tags with ridiculous prices!!! I have one similar. from 2003 still perfect

 

Advance Auto's $30 WP DOES have a lifetime warranty! I purchased one new a couple weeks ago. I have never had issues with parts from Autozone or Advance.

 

I just bought a Weiand aluminum pump from summit. I never buy stuff at Auto Zone except air fresheners and car soap.

 

Not interested in spending almost double just to get an aluminum water pump. Though, I like buying those things locally. That way if or when it fails, I can get it replaced very easily instead of having to go through the internet.

 

I just got reman single piston calipers from Advance. I put on new washers and it is leaking at the caliper where the bolt goes in. Must be the caliper. Only other thing I can think of is a prior shop who replaced the brake line, they put a curly cue in the line right after the hard line. So, I fixed that so the line ran straight. And when I did that, I think it flipped the end of the brake line over, so it bolted back up from the other side. Though, I don't think that would have anything to do with it. I did pull it back apart to make sure there wan't any dirt on the washer.

Other than that, I noticed the bleeder screw had very wide threads. When I cracked the bleeder, brake fluid would also run down out the threads. I put a line on the bleeder screw and put a vacuum on it. All it did was suck air in past the threads. So, the only thing I could do was gravity bleed it. And it makes a vibration noise when braking. I just backed up and went back in my spot a couple of times. I'm guessing it must be air in the system.

So, tommorrow I'll jack it back up and put the old pads back on. Drive slow to the shop to let them figure it out and replace the driver caliper that I didn't get to. I plan to replace the pads and rotors. So, if the pads or rotor get trashed on that side on the 2 mile drive, they will be replaced anyways.

I'm probably gonna check out the raman Autozone calipers to see if the bleeder screws have a tighter thread pattern, or if they are the same as the Advance calipers.

 

Bump. Anyone using the NEW Duralast or ASC water pumps?

Since the regular and Heavy Duty pumps are the same price. I'm looking at going Heavy Duty. As I believe they are built with better bearings.

 

The HD pump has a bigger bearing or shaft I run a duralast HD in my car for YEARS never had a problem till I put a new motor in and wanted something that looked nice then I take the pump out ( the one that worked just fine ) smack it one the ground and tell them the bearing is bad LOL

 

I will probably just check both out to see which looks better. But I will probably go with the ASC since I've got a $50 coupon for Advance for this month. That way I can use it up.

 

If they are the same money get the HD and use your coupon.

 

Yeah, for some reason the regular and HD pump are the same price. I don't know why as the HD are supposed to be more expensive.

 

The other thing is the impellar has 6 blades on the HD pump instead of 5. I used to work at AZ way back in the day as well as a few other parts stores and I can break down the whole cheap brakes issues for everyone. This is how it works: back about 15 years ago rotors used to cost around $60-$80 apiece and were all new made by reputable companies like Raybestos for example. Those rotors were spin balanced, checked for airpockets, thickness, weight, etc. There were strict quality control numbers to achieve and if any were found to be out of tolerance, they were melted back down and remolded....since they are cast. Now, the big parent brake companies soon found out it was cheaper to just sell these "inferior reject rotors" to lower level brake companies where they could just rebox them and sell them cheaper. And guess what? More and more people chose to buy cheaper because it saves them money and after awhile, most people think all rotors are the same, right? Now, the only thing parts stores stock are generic boxed rotors. Raybestos used to sell their cheap line rotors under the name Raymold but I don't think they even offer them anymore. It looks better for the parent company to dis-associate itself from cheaper line parts so more and more the boxes your calipers and rotors come in are plain jane. AZ's Duralast line is their own invented parts line and they are made almost exclusively in foreign countries which ultimately exploit the local labor. That's why a Duralast ball joint is half the cost of a MOOG or TRW part of the same application. Next time you want to see proof for your self, go to AZ the next time you have to replace your tie rod end or ball joint and tell them you don't want a Duralast or Valucraft-instead, have them order it through Rare Parts which will cost you more but it is the same level of quality as MOOG, TRW ect. because it IS TRW and it USA made, hence the higher cost-BUT, and here's the big BUT-when that part comes in, have the counter guy pull down a Duralast ball joint and lay them side by side. You can see and feel the vast difference between the USA-made part and the cheaper Duralast part...usually made in Mexico, Tailand, Korea or Malaysia. When it comes to suspension, you WANT the heaviest duty parts you can buy! This example can be said of most parts store parts regardless of the store-they all have cheap, overseas made parts that exploit the cheap labor so you the customer won't have the buy quality, American made parts. My opinion is that USA made parts ARE NOT expensive, consumers are just getting more and more use dto buying crap for next to nothing and then complaining when it breaks. Okay, I'll get offf my soapbox now. LOL

 

How good are the Duralast rotors? I bought some at $50 a piece for my 89. I had read lots of good reviews of them.

 

I told you most of AZ stuff is crap...

 

Most everything is crap, not just Autozone. Though, alot of people have a habit of buying the cheapest Valucraft stuff, then when it fails. They bash it all when they may not of had a problem if they bought Duralast Gold.

I can say Autozone is better than Napa parts. After I got tired of replacing the same Napa parts 2-3 times within a year, I put Autozone stuff on, and still running 5 years later. That water pump on now is an Autozone pump, 5 years old and still running fine. I just figure I'd replace it when I have it off replacing the timing chain.

 

If you paid $50 for the rotor, chances are it is okay for street use but I would caution against using it for performance applications. The biggest reason cheap rotors fail is because of air pockets and that results from poor manufacturing techniques and/or quality control. You can see when the air pockets come to the surface because you'll see little black pits/streaks all over the rotor face. Look close at that Duralast rotoro box and you'll see it is made with USA and foreign material-translation:it's an overseas product with a little bit of US raw material. And a sfor Duralast Gold batteries in case anybody wants to know, and this is true of ALL batteries: you are FAR bette roff buying the medium grade battery vs. the top of the line gold this or that. Why? Because according to a Johnson Controls rep. (who by the way make about 50% of the worlds batteries) the lead plates are stacked much more closely and in greater number in those batteries to obtain th ehigher CCA value. Now, in areas of the country where high heat and extreme cold are commonplace, this really taxes the internal strength of the batteries and any sort of temperature swing or bad vibration/impact can cause the plates to come into contact with one another more frequently causing them to short out and lose their charge capability. This doesn't apply to gel filled batteries-just the standard lead plate ones. So, all in all you are better off getting the medium quality battery for longevity. Here's a little tidbit about AZ that nobody hardly knows about: all of the hard parts they keep behind the counter like suspension parts, brakes, shocks, etc. they don't even have to pay the vendor for until they sell it in the store first. It's like getting your parts supplied for free and then all you have to do is sell them. That's why when I worked there they were crazy about ALWAYS flexing in new parts and sending back recalls if they don't sell. Anything to save themselves money....and as for the parts themselves, they don't care about the quality as long as the cost is right. And OEM stuff is of high quality-it's just expensive buying them through the dealers that's for sure. A lot of that stuff is made in Canada and I don't mind that.

 

What do you think about the Napa Chinese rotors? They are $33 a piece on the Vette.

Or Advance has the Wearever for $40 a piece.

I thought the brakes were good on the 89 Vette from telling shops to check them out. I looked at the front rotor, and it has ripples in it. Which means the rotors need to be turned or replaced. The pads are probably worn down. I don't think they have a wear squealing thing like the Firebird does to tell me they are worn down.

But I'm gonna replace the pads. Probably Wagner Thermoquiet semi metallic since they have a rebate going. Or maybe the Wearever Gold since I have a $50 coupon I need to use at Advance. Wagner pads is the brand I put on my Firebird.

Then I'll see if I can get the rotors turned. If they are too far gone, then I'll replace them with something cheap as I keep getting hit with unexpected things like this.

 

I used to work for Advance, so I may be biased, but I never had any issues with their new water pumps. I used one on my 305 when the stock went dead and carried it over to the 400ci when I swapped motors. no issue with cooling, no pump failure, $35 and lifetime warranty. These pumps have been around for so long and so simply casted (compared to some other vehicles) that I rarely ever saw failed pumps come back my way. For some companies, HD would add a back plate to the impeller to do a better job of directing water flow; other companies would add an extra vain.

if you're running a stock or slightly modified engine, a stock-style new casting lifetime warranty part is all you'll need. spend the extra money on other go-fast goodies

 

Yeah, I plan on just going a stock style pump at the parts store. But the regular and the HD are the same exact price of $30. So, I think I'd get the HD as it is supposed to have better bearings, so I say it should last longer.

 

After installing an Edelbrock aluminium pump less than a year ago and hearing the possible signs of it already or the alternator failing, I am probably going to try the aluminium "HD" one from AutoZone that has the limited lifetime warranty. Less than a year of running and it has some play already? I bought it second hand for $100. I would be even more pissed if I would have paid full price and it would have lasted this short of time. I don't even need something high-flow. If I could find an affordable serpentine setup I would go that route at the same time, but people want a ridiculous amount of money for some pulleys, brackets, and hardware.

 

What is an outrageous price for a serpentine setup? I have a few on hand with EVERYTHING you need including hardware. I sell them all the time locally for $400. This is for media blasted brackets/hardware/pulleys, NEW idler, NEW tensioner. I etch primer all media blasted parts and paint the brackets a graphite metallic, pulleys a satin black, braces a gloss black. I clear coat the aluminum parts in their natural finish. Here's one I installed awhile back in a 1969 Camaro with AC delete. I also build adapter brackets for this setup for 140A alternators, aluminum t-stat housings, etc. This motor is running one of my universal 3 speed fan harnesses on a Lincoln Mark VIII fan so that's the reason for running a dual threaded bung t-stat housing.

I don't think $400 is a high price given the time involved in making a nice kit. It gives the under hood a nicer look than the "catalog chrome" or a street rod "March pulley kit" IMO.

 

I see serpentine kits that are just pulleys, brackets, and hardware just taken off cars for over $200. Way too much for basically junk yard parts. Then I'd have to still deal with fuel lines, get an A/C compressor or delete pulley, and a water pump. The whole kit including a water pump, a PS pump, an alternator, a compressor, and everything else but the fuel lines is only like $900 right from GM. I just want something functional and affordable, not shiny and expensive.

 

There are a lot of differences with the GM serpentine setups from various applications. Some have guided tensioners, others have guided water pump pulleys, while still others have at least 3 versions of brackets for mounting a larger, 6" cased 140A alternator( not to mention specific t-stat housings and re-routed upper hoses for such an upgrade). Buying a used serp. kit is no good unless you get all the correct braces, attaching hardware, ect. Then, when I put them together, I inform people about upgraded options among the stock GM parts that a lot of people aren't aware of. I assemble a lot of custom GM kits so unless somebody has really done their homework, you're better off dealing with finding stuff/researching on your own.

 

HD water pumps have more vanes on the impeller. other than that, they are the same.

 

When I needed a pump for my Buick all I could find had impellers made of sheet metal.I ended up buying one with only a year warranty but with a factory impeller.