Heya everyone!

I replaced every single component in my AC system with new parts.

The only thing not replaced was the high-side line that goes from the evaporator to the condensor. I flushed it out with AC flush. That particular piece is a single metal line with no parts that could possibly break down (other than the line being physically damaged).

Other than that, every component, o-ring, and switch/sensor was replaced.

I bought a nice set of AC gauges and a nice vacuum pump.

I pulled a vacuum on it and it held for over a day. So, I think I'm in business.

Now, here's the question:

Should I take it to an AC shop to get it charged, or should I do it myself?

By the way, does anyone know a good shop in Fort Worth that really knows these systems? If so, I'll gladly take it to a professional.

But, I hate to take it to some hack that won't take the time to get it perfect.

I think I spent about $1000 on the parts.

As little as I drive it, R143a will be just fine, but I need to find someone that really understands how to dial it in.

Otherwise, I've read a ton of articles all over the net and feel like I have a good grasp. I just hate to take such a pristine system and foul it up with oil and such and not get it right.

I've done the usual top-off's in the past, so it's not completely foreign to me. But, this system is completely dry as I haven't even filled the compressor yet.

Anyone know of a good article on the net that deals with a brand new DRY system like I have?

Thanks for any insight!

 

 

Hays Automotive in Ft worth just did my AC system. I trust Keith Hays with my life and my car.

He's on 377, down toward I-20. Tell him Mark sent you

 

Here's a pic of the instructions. Not the best, but the orange was hard to photograph.



It looks like 2oz in the compressor, 3oz in the evap, 1oz in the condensor, and 2oz in the accumulator for a total of 8.

I suppose a small funnel and hose would do the trick, button it all back up, and pull a vacuum again for a few hours.

Then, about 3 cans of R134a (while checking gauges) along with a 1/4 turn adjustment to the clutch cycle switch and I should be in business.

 

Thanks! I think I could get this one nailed myself, but I hate to foul up the clean and dry system. I'm still waffling back and forth.

I appreciate the recommendation because I want to make sure I take it to someone who has a real knack for it.

 

how are you going to evacuate the system if you do it yourself? That's what always kept me from doing it myself

 

I'm not sure what you mean. The old parts were "evacuated" because they had a leak. Nothing was left in the parts except for nasty oil(s). It started leaking R12 a few years ago, so I limped along with the R134a "retrofit" along with sealant charges. What a mess when I finally pulled the old parts out. I just replaced everything with new parts, including the ACDelco replacement compressor kit.

If you mean vacuum evacuation, I bought a nice pump and set of gauges. The pump wasn't cheap, but I'm glad I dropped the money so I have the tools to maintain the system for the next twenty years. I'm pretty sure I could charge it, but I kind of want someone to do it for me while I look on. Then, I'm sure I could maintain and/or re-fit it in the future if necessary.

 

yeah, i meant using a vacuum to evacuate the air our of the system. Glad you have a pump. that's the hardest part.

 

58mark, Check with you local Autozone. they have a loaner tool program. You do have to leave a deposit ...( basicly buy the vacuum pump then get full refund once returned) If your local store doesn't have one.. they can call around to see which one does.
Here's a tip, check the pump before taking it.. ask to hear it run and check the oil level in the sight glass, cos you burn it up, you buy it.

Tony

 

just notice the date. Didn't mean to revive an old thread

 

The kind of vacuum pump you need for AC work is not something you can find in any parts store loaner tool program. I bought a 4CFM Robinair unit and it cost me about $450. I can pull my house down with it...and I've done it before!

 

Really ? a 3 CFM pump wouldn't work ? I was able to pull a hard vacuum with it(30 Inchs of Hg.) and my AC is getting down to 52 Deg. in our 85 Deg weather. not Great but as a R12 - R134a conversion... I'm happy.

Tony

 

The cfm ratings really don't mean much. A higher cfm is faster. But vacuum pumps will slow down from their rated cfm output fairly quickly anyways. I like to pull a vacuum for an hour regardless of cfm size. (A digital micron gauge is best, but not many people want to shell out $150-200 for the digital micron guage)

Here is a sizing chart

Up to 10 tons
Passenger Car
Domestic refrigeration.... 1.5 cfm

Up to 30 tons
Panel trucks, RVs
Residential A/C..... 4 cfm

Up to 50 tons
Tractor/trailers, buses
Rooftop A/C systems.....6cfm

Up to 70 tons.....10 cfm

Basically if you're vacuuming down the air conditioning system that cools a Wal-Mart building, the cfm will be more important than for our cars. Most cars are about 3-4 tons of A/C (which is also a common size for houses. In Houston the average house is 500 sq feet per 1 ton. In a northern climate the sizing per ton will be smaller)

I have a 6 cfm Yellow Jacket vacuum pump. Only thing I've ever used it for is cars. It has some nice features. 2 stage, oversized oil capacity, analog vacuum gauge built in. (if you have a leak it will let you know way easier than looking at manifold gauges). Nice large threaded drain plug. My pump is overkill, but I wanted it anyways.

But really, any vacuum pump will do. Important thing is to change the oil before vacuuming down your system. Just don't bother with those el cheapo pumps that hook up to an air compressor.

 

Cool thread. Was looking for this as I am also re doing my A/C system.

 

Detroyed my evaporator core this weekend while trying to remove the 25 year plus accumulator. Well since I got new hoses and other parts, I may as well go R-134.

 

A little tip if your using a set of gauges to keep air and moisture from being introduced into the system is to bleed the air out the gauge's hoses. If you've got the system drawn down into a vacuum the high and low side of the gauges will be in a vacuum to but when you hook up to your can of freon air will get in the charging hose. Hook up the can and pierce it then crack the charging(yellow) hose a little bit at the gauges, let it hiss for a few seconds then tighten it back up. If your hooking up to a car thats charged do the same thing with all three hoses before adding freon. Be careful when doing this though cause getting liquid refrigerant on your hand sucks. Also best way to charge a car IMO is a charging cylinder if you can get your hands on one(seen a Robin air at a pawn shop b4 for $40!). I've always judged by the # of cans and the pressures though and never had a problem.

 

I guess it was good that I broke the evaporator. This weekend I decided to remove the top housing to remove the evaporator. It was so easy to do so btw. Once I removed the old evaporator, there was at least 25 years worth of leaves, and other junk in the housing. That explained why my old A/C was not really blowing cold air.

Btw, does anyone know if that one piece of insulating foam that is glued on the stock evaporator to insulate it and the engine compartment and metal screen are included with the replacement unit or am I going to have to remove it and glue it onto the new evaporator?

 

Bump