Hey guys. I recently got an 86 Iroc. All the A/C components were there and intact minus the belt. I put the retro fittings for 134 on and charged it to 30 lbs with one of those cans from pep boys. I still have no power to the compressor or clutch. The heater blower works, I just cant get the compressor to cycle. I tried jumping the compressor and the clutch and still no go. I hate to take it somewhere and get bent over. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (I also researched at Autozone.com and it says there is an A/C relay. I found some online wiring diagrams and do not see the relay anywhere on them.) Thanks.

 

Did you have power at the pressure switch you were jumping?

 

No. None at the compressor or the clutch where the diode is.

 

Did you check for voltage at this switch?

 

No, I didnt but I sure will. I guess it should only be hot with the AC on right? Or is it hot all the time and then completes the circuit when you turn on the AC?

 

When the ac is turned on one of the terminals on this switch will have power. If you jump the two wires together it will turn on the compressor clutch allowing you to fill the system.

 

That did the trick! So I need to charge the system while jumping out the switch for it to get enough pressure to cycle the switch on it's own right?

 

You should only need to do it for the first can.

 

Thank you so much for the help. I really appreciate it. I knew it had to be something simple.

 

Well, I jumped the switch and heard the compressor clutch kick in and then added a can of refrigerant. Still no cool air from vents. The compressor finally cycled off even with the switch jumped out. Then I put a gauge on it and found the system to be overcharged. I then heard a leak coming from the high pressure metal line along the pass side frame rail where a switch or solenoid is tapped into the metal line. There was 2 wires coming from it. I think blue and brown. I was thinking wither the orifice tube is blocked or the compressor is shot? The motor did lower in RPM when the compressor kicked on leading me to believe that it was working though. Any thoughts?

 

you may need to change the filter in it. I did this yesterday.

 

Filter? In the AC system?

 

Bump, anyone have any more ideas? Or is it time to take it somewhere and get the shaft?

 

I would take a guess that the orifice tube has become clogged since no cool air ever cam out.

 

There's no quick n easy way
since it sounds like this system has been open for a while...
your going to need to get an Accumulator, orifice tube, o-rings, the low pressure switch you just jumpered to get it to work and ....
Lets see.
PAG oil and some kind of flush. I've used brake cleaner ... just get it all out .. including the fumes. replace all of the o rings. Use Autozones (if avalible) loaner tool program n ask if they have a vacuum pump, maybe even guages, to loan.
you need to pull a hard vacuum for 30 min, if it doesn't get down to 30in of vac. or if the pump still ... burbles even a little, you have a leak and the r134a will leak out in a day - week. if you can't get it to stop ... don't bother. next step would be to find the leak, n fix. I ended up replacing my compressor(probably a waste), had my hoses remade, replaced the condensor and the evap (a waste in my case)... oh, I also used a blue ford orifice tube... search. get more info.

Tony

 

Thanks for the guidance guys. I guess I'll try to get all the correct parts together and take it from there. MAybe I'll install tehm and then take it to the shop for evac and charging. Then again, if I go so far as to install all the new stuff, I may do as you suggest Tony and try it myself. Thanks again guys!

 

This is abit off topic but related still. How do you remove that canister (a.c. accumulator, the lines & everything that hooks into the back of the a.c. compressor & into the ac condenser in front of the radiator)?

There is a nut/bolt holding one of the lines in behind the a.c. compressor & it's hard to get off. I'm trying to delete all of my a.c. since my heat is gone.

I also need to know how to evacuate my a.c. canister before removing all of this legally? I don't really think I need to go to my mechanic for it BUT I will if I must. I found some info online about how to evac the a.c. system in a car. I wanted to ask you guys since this is for IROC's in particular.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us




Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Hey if you get that stuff removed, I need the lower AC line that runs on the frame rail from the Dryer to the Evaporator. Mine is leaking. Don't think they are available new. If it's still got R-12 in it, it should be evacuated by a shop. I guess the 134 is able to be released into the air, but it still really should be recovered professionally as well. I cant see it costing that much.