The only pieces that haven't been replaced are the condenser and evaporator. The leak is VERY slow. Even after having charged the system at the beginning of last summer, I suspect there's still R12 remaining in the system. Originally, after charging and throwing in some dye, the shop had me return some 7 to 10 days later. At that time, they failed to find a leak with either a light or sniffer (I was told that the leak was untraceable).

Since the leak is so slow, I wonder if I wouldn't be foolish not to take the car in again (to another shop) for a second leak test. Since everything in the system is new except the condenser and evaporator, I wonder which is most likely the culprit? Advice?

JamesC

 

Do you run either the AC or defrost to run the compressor at least 5-10 minutes every month? I was told once to do that to keep the seals well lubed and prevent leaks. Not doing that caused mine to slowly leak out, but after hearing that and filling up with no other work mine has held well for a couple of years so far. Don't know if it's really true or not, just that so far it's worked for me.

 

Yes, but there was no improvement. Made an appointment for next week for another test.

JamesC

 

Well good luck, at least you're a ways ahead of the summer rush

 

Even the rubber lines are new?

I ask because I couldn't find a source for new AC lines.

 

Yes. The set-up is for the serp system, which has the compressor on the pass side.

JamesC

 

I'm gonna start from square one, you're sure its leaking? The system works great initially then performance eventually drops off? Was the system put under a vacuum before recharging? Did the shop actually check the interior of the car for an evap leak? Panels have to be removed to perform that check so I hope they didn't just skim the engine bay with a UV light and ship it back to you. If the A/C is losing a charge then it IS leaking. Im assuming all seals were replaced on the components that are new?

 

I'm sure it's leaking as the temp goes from cold after a charge to I'm sweating by summer's end. What the shop did or didn't do, I can't say--the shop has, however, been reliable in the past.

JamesC

 

yea if its leaking it will definatly show up with the uv light but will be harder to see if it the evaporater inside leaking. But i would deff get it in sooner rather then later as prices on freon are skyrocketing. $14 for small can of freon and $400 for 30lb keg of it.

 

With a UV light the tech found a place on the condenser that appears to be leaking (it's behind the fog lights. The condenser seems to have been smacked pretty hard as the fins are severely beaten up). The compressor is also weeping a bit. I might try a parallel flow such as the following one for 86-91, but I need more info about it:

http://www.autocondenserstore.com/ch...condensers.php

JamesC

 

I just got my own leak test kit and checked mine myself. The biggest source of leaks that I have found happen when people buy their own cans of refrigerant and put it in themselves. These hosed cans at the parts stores bend the little shaft on the valve core at the low pressure side service port. You can check them easily with a little dishwashing soap diluted with a little water. Just take the plastic port cover off and swab the soap around with a Q tip or model car paint brush.If bubbles fly up that is your refrigerant leaking out. Usually you can bend them up a little and they will stop. Advance Auto has a tool that can change a valve core out without loosing your refrigerant load.