I have a over heating issue, I realized my radiator is not sucking coolant back from the overflow. Is there a solution? Im not sure if its normal but after the car is turned off I squeeze the radiator hoses and I can hear the squishing in the radiator. Runs 210*-220* slooooowly cools at idle or in park.

I have:
-new waterpump
-1 year old radiator
-new radiator cap
- functional thermostat180*
-Functional fan 195* fan switch

 

Squishing is good, means its got coolant in it.

The coolant will take time to flow back from the overflow tank, needs to cool down first.

Is it actually boiling? If not then its not overheating.

 

No its not boiling. I never had my car get that hot. Its freeking me out tho its always ran at 180*-195* now it will climb to 210-220 sometimes 225* usually hangs out at 220.

 

Running at 210-220 is completely normal.both my birds always ran that hot. These cars are designed to run a little hotter than you would expect. Nothing sounds outa the ordinary to me.

 

I owned my car for 2 years now Ive taken it on 3 hr trips and its never been over 195* I have 180 stat 195 fan switch that cuts off at 180. This aint normal for my car.

 

If you're relying on the dash gauge for these temp readings - get an ir temp gun for a second opinion. Something may have happened to the gauge or sender.

Otherwise yeah it sounds normal. Factory normal at least, though personally I dont like mine running 220 either, but it happens on occasion.

 

I guess its OK for now, I actually had a Mr. Gasket Rad cap with the temp gauge in it that was reading the same. I thought it was bad so I swapped it out for a $7 chepo. I tried that pressure test it was still holding pressure for a good amout of time after it was off. I wish I knew why its running that hot now, it never did before. are you running a stock setup?

 

Pretty far from it. Po did an engine swap. Got some old copper rad from the 70's, no computer, then Ive added twin fans I got from the wreckers, and custom fan controller and air dam that I built. Its a mongrel setup, but handles the summers over here ok.

Mr Gasket anything = uber high quality and accuracy, I've found (rofl)

 

I founf this in some forum... does this have any truth??

"If it overheats at speed, but cools down when you slow down, the problem is likely a head gasket. Combustion gasses are leaking into the cooling system, adding bubbles (which take the place of coolant) and extra heat. Slowing down means the engine is spinning slower, and less combustion gas gets into the cooling system."

 

Well, it could be, but blown head gasket is the usual doomsday worst case conclusion that most guys seem to love jumping to without any attempt at diagnosis.

Could also be air dam or shrouding. Or fans. Or a cooling system that is just barely working, and the continous work on the engine at cruise overpowers it.

 

I do see some bubbles in the cooling system. they are mostly extreamly tiny and probly un measurable to the naked eye and a few pop out rhar are 1/16- 1/8 of an inch. But I think these are normal seeing it was like that waaaaay before I had this issue.

 

IF it is a leak its really not much of one. My oil looks real good and coolent looks clean as a wistle and im not losing either oil or coolant

 

Next attempt is new radiator and hoses maybe my chepo radiator has crappy flow., thats will make an entirely brand new cooling system

 

Small bubbles in the coolant may indicate a pinhole leak maybe, but are probably just the normal consequence of coolant heating up. Just like happens in your kettle before it boils.

Doesnt sound like you've really got a situation that warrants any action at this point. I'd just keep my eye on it for now, until if or when it shows signs of actually overheating.

 

the gauge is probably wrong, get an infared thermometer and check the temp before you go furthur, and be sure before you spend more $$$...

 

after I get this IR thermometer exactly where and what am I checking?

 

Check the temp at upper hose this is the hot side from thermostat, then check the lower hose. Temp at upper will be engine temp. lower will be cooled temp feeding back into engine....

 

I went to every auto parts store in the area no one has that IR gun. so I stopped at a local shop, they said they would pressure test my system for me for $26. If Shes blown im going to be on the prowl for a L98 asap.

 

Just watching the news - aren't you guys having a record-breaking country-wide heatwave at the moment? That would certainly affect your cooling.

 

Yea its crazy it just started storming too. I tested it last night when temps were in mid-low 70's it does the same thing. The only way it cools back down I found is when driving and a 35-45mph steady pace any faster and the damn thing will raise. Its still doin it at cool night temps.

 

I honestly think its really something restricting my coolant flow.

 

AZ has them, Jegs, Summit, Harbor Frieght , Sears, not hard to find... What kind of condition is your airdam in???

 

Its in as close to perfect as it can get... there is one hole on the top flat plastic part on the left side that looks like someones hand broke thru it. But im not even sure if that is considered part of the airdam?

 

Problem SOLVED!, I brought it in for a preesure test, the guy said my brand new radiator cap was not holding pressure. He also said my temp gauge was 20* off (which it was not) he wanted $135 to replace the switch I told him no thanks I can do it myself. I bought another rad cap from AZ it seemed alot better quality than the one from Advanced. I pop the 2nd new rad cap on and BINGO!...I could not get my temp above 190* for the life of me. Thanks everyone for helping out.

 

Problem back! Im getting fed up with this. the car had been fine until last night I seen the temp gauge jackin around. So i firgured that guy wasnt pulling my chain to get some money outta me, I went ahead and replaced the Temp gauge sender on the driver side head. I filled back up with coolant and bled the system of air. Now im back at where I started. The temp stays at about 210, the Upper hose dosnt feel stiff but pretty squishy at operating temp. and the Rad cap doesnt feel snug on the filler neck like it once, it feels very loose, I use to have to push down HARD and twist it on on off, now I can just spin it, If this is not normal Is there a way to fix this... Im thinking my radiator neck is worn? aside from that Im not sure what my temp readings with the IR gun are suppose to read for my car to be between 180 and 195 but these were my readings. Upper Hose AVG. 145* (155* near ends) Lower Hose AVG. 145* Thermostat Housing 185*-192* Radiator AVG 160*

 

Your temps are backwards the top hose should be hot, lower hose cooler, you may have a reversed flow water pump and have the wrong pump in there? I honestly can't remember do some research...

 

I was told the lower radiator hose will ready 10-20* hotter on the gun because it is in a hotter location and the IR picks up some surrounding heat. and the upper is more accurate because its in an open area. Im determined to figure this thing out.

 

I Got the car back up to temp and I wanted to double check my filler neck, I pressed down on one side of my radiator cap and coolant sprayed out the outher side. I double checked with another rad cap same thing. I need a new radiator, the plastic thread for the rad cap on the filler neck is worn and too loose.