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Fan failure - total cool colapse. Guru please.

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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #1  
crazybird's Avatar
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Car: 1987 firebird
Fan failure - total cool colapse. Guru please.

I first heard a grinding noise on the front drivers side. Then the fan went out. I bought a new fan and it didnt work. So I assumed it was the relay. Found some wires at the relay with some shielding missing at the connector. I then found the wire at the junction block had burned. This wire has a black cylinder looking thing at the Junction block. I have been driving sparingly without a fan. It overheated recently and now I also losing fluid slowly.

I wonder if anyone can diagnose my original problem - The fan and/or relay blowing with the seemingly burned wires. Is there an easy simple fix?

Then can anyone point me to a thread that comprehensively deals with coolant leaks and sealing. Since the car over heated, is there a first place to check?

PS - car runs fine even when really hot. I dont drive it much and it is pretty cold in Brooklyn. I would really appreciate any help. Especially on my my fan circuit went crazy.

Last question..... There are two green wires on the relay. Can anyone tell which one I can cut out - considering I no longer have the PS and AC switches. Thanks guys. I really need the help.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 09:50 PM
  #2  
crazybird's Avatar
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Car: 1987 firebird
Re: Fan failure - total cool colapse. Guru please.

Also, my pigtail at the fan motor is shreaded. I need a new one. But I really dont wanna cut into the stock wires to put a new connector on. Any way around that?
Thanks a ton.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #3  
NINÅ's Avatar
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From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
2 Hot 2 Trot

Well first replace the damaged parts.

Then using a voltmeter or test light
(the type for testing for voltage, not a continuity tester) see if there is power on the orange wire at the relay.

Is there?


Happy Racing!



If You Need To See Brake Lights To Know When To Apply Yours . . . . . . . . . GET OFF THE ROAD IMMEDIATELY!

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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 12:46 AM
  #4  
abray1's Avatar
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From: Malvern, Arkansas
Car: 90 IROC 2-92 Zs blk vert & prpl
Engine: stealth ram brodix track 1 ful port
Transmission: 700r4 4l80e
Axle/Gears: iroc 375 lokr 92 Z 277 pos vert 327
Re: Fan failure - total cool colapse. Guru please.

Do yourself a favor and start looking for a taurus fan from a 90-95 3.8l. They are a 2 speed motor and cool better than anything I have ever tried. At one time I had 5 fans on one of my 3rd gens and the taurus fan blows them all away. No pun intended.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #5  
91 1LE's Avatar
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From: Litchfield Park
Car: '91 1LE
Engine: 377 w/Stealthram
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Torsen
Re: Fan failure - total cool colapse. Guru please.

The black cylinder is just a junction. The wires coming out are fusible links and if one burned then that is your problem. You can either install a new fusible link our a regular wire with a fuse. Mine blew on my car for no apparent reason and worked fine once replaced. Check the rest of your wiring to make sure you have no shorts first.
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 09:51 AM
  #6  
91 1LE's Avatar
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From: Litchfield Park
Car: '91 1LE
Engine: 377 w/Stealthram
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Torsen
Re: Fan failure - total cool colapse. Guru please.

Bad news if you overheated it and now you are losing coolant. That usually indicates a blown head gasket.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 10:19 PM
  #7  
eighty8's Avatar
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: TH 350
Re: Fan failure - total cool colapse. Guru please.

Start ruling things out one at at time. Check the major components (fan, relay, coolant temp switch) and the bits in between (wires, fuses, fusible links). You should get a diagram of the system and a multimeter. Getting the electric cooling system up should be your first priority, it will be easier to find the leak if the car is warmed up and with the fan working at least you could drive around without making it much worse (so long as you keep the coolant topped up) NINA is taking you in the right direction, checking for power at the relay is a logical place to start
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