I cannot figure this out!!! I have bought a new air dam, 3 core aluminum radiator with 2 dual fans that come on when car is on, 180 thermostat.. But it seems when I get into high rpms like to race (upgraded 305) the temp just shoots up... What's the problem here? Should I change my thermostat being in 100 degree weather??

 

You mention that your fans run whenever the engine is running. Does this to mean the fans are hooked up directly to 12v with some kind of manual switch, yes?

And assuming the fans are on the engine side of the radiator (suck thru) are you sure they're wired up to suck and not blow?

 

Correct. And yes they are both sucking and exhausting towards motor. One thing I noticed whenever I nailed it (doing about 180-190 mph ish) the temp shot up on gauge a lot so is let off and by gauge the thermostat stat kicked in around 235? Never seen it do that before

 

Do you have coils in the rad hoses to prevent them from collapsing under high rpm use?

 

180-195 mph in a 305 huh????

 

Running high RPMs will drive the temps up. These cars were designed to run hot. Have you burped the motor? All new hoses? When was the last time you flushed it? Are you sure the thermostat is good? Also, remember the newest of our cars is 22 years old. My temp gauge reads 20* hot...and finally, if it's not boiling over, it's not overheating.

 

WOO HOOO!! lol

 

No they are re enforced hoses since they don't make the actually hoses with coils anymore

 

Yeah I'm getting an infrared thermostat tomorrow to try it. I'm thinking the gauge is off cause I haven't heard it boil over since my old 350 blew. Yes new hoses, yes new thermostat, flushed it maybe 2 wks ago

 

Not stock by any means

 

always been speculation on removing the hood cowl seal to let air escape or enter via the cowl.

 

I don't have a seal on my cowl. And honestly I think it's fine

 

Have you checked for internal coolant leaks? Also might want to check for vacuum leaks. I had a similar problem and it was just an adjustment to the intake gasket. Good luck

 

How did you test to see vacuum leak on intake? Cause I have center bolt heads with modified old school intake

 

I didn't have to test because it started to leak at the oil filter. Not a lot but noticeable. I could see the gasket wasn't tightened down. Lucky I didn't have to replace it all together.

 

AC rad removed?

engine history?

is it full of rust scale?

Copper rads are better, aluminum only makes up for it with thinner tube material but copper wins hands down, unless its a tight space.

 

What kind of condition is your water pump in?

I think you have a typo somewhere, because I see you're stating 180-195 mph, with a TH350...and a 305, lol.

 

I need to get a hold of his engine and tranny guy. Can you imagine how my 350 would run!!!!!!!!!

 

yeah i just found out that my temp gauge is about 40-45* off. gauge was reading high

 

 

Thank you so much for that statement, I needed a good laugh.

 

I am in HOT Florida like Texas so I can only relay my mild 305 cooling setup which works for me .....it runs 160 on my aftermarket gage constantly...stock single fan wired to turn on as soon as the car is started and stays on , stock radiator, factory air dam in place EXCEPT for the filler panel between upper body nose and upper radiator support . Car is a carbed 305 with 30 degrees locked timing, stock water pump,stock serpentine NO HEATER CORE , NO THERMOSTAT . EGR ports are NOT blocked on the heads / intake . Edelbrock EPS dual plane Intake gets up to temp VERY quick and the car starts cold on the very first key turn. Going down the road at 70-80 mph it never creeps up in temp and sitting idling in H O T Florida traffic the highest I have ever seen it is 168 . I have heard running without a thermostat will cause any car to run hot - I HAVE NEVER SEEN THIS ....my 462 Buick which are notorious for idle creeping temperatures creeping up in the 215-225 range ran absolutely fine without a thermostat as well. Going 70-80 it ran 170-175 and never went over 185 during extended crazy idling which is phenomenal cooling for a Buick ...Again I am carbd, aftermarket aluminum intake so no computer codes to be thrown etc and no emissions inspections in Florida. Would this setup work in Northern climates -probably not but in the H O T south this setup works great for me .

 

Well I took it out today and raced it a little to get the temp up to "260" on my gauge and used an infared.... 195 on aluminum, 200 on rad hose, and 205 is hottest i found on the intake inlet. And hey, maybe the radar gun that clocked me is broke but whatever . And I dont think copper rads cool better..... All new cars would still be copper? that makes no sense. + aluminum rads release more heat than coppers. BTW BIG QUESTION. since I put in a 3 core there is no space between condenser and rad should i modify it to allow for space??? or just leave it alone?

 

It makes perfect sense. Cost vs effect. Aluminum does the job and is cheaper.

Copper has a higher thermal conductivity than aluminum.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_thermal_conductivities
Seems like the further away you can get it, the better it will work. Radiator might bleed heat onto the condenser at too close a range.

 

Aluminum is used cause it cheap and "works", not cause its the best.

Just like the fake cat back dual exhaust, they were to cheap to run 2 cats on ever car and that became "standard" to save moeny.

 

they switched because its cheaper to make a aluminum rad than a copper/brass one. its all about cheeper. that's also why you cant buy a real heater core anymore. now they are all aluminum/plastic.