power to fan relay wiring issue
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Riverview N.B. Canada
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 5 speed
Axle/Gears: L/S 3.45
power to fan relay wiring issue
I have a wire that is burning off that comes from a pigtail connected to the positive battery cable. It is a small gauge wire (16 gauge I think) that runs to a connector that links it to the orange 10 gauge (?) wire that runs to the rad fan relay. Is this pigtail replaceable, I think the wire is just old and rotten. Or could the fan motor be going bad and causing lots of resistance through the wiring? Can I run a wire from the black wire between the fusible link and the battery to the orange relay wire as long as a put a fuse on it? I have attached a couple of pics. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Re: power to fan relay wiring issue
The thin wire is actually fusible link and no you cant replace just the connector. It has to be cut out and a replacement crimped/soldered in. Big part of why I despise fusible links
Anyways, You'll want a maxi-fuse holder or another fusible link. Cut the big blob off and crimp/solder all that stuff back together again. The 1 pin inline connector is a generic weatherpack. Use a liasle tool to depin it and use a new terminal on the replacement wire. Or just cut it out and hardwire it
Anyways, You'll want a maxi-fuse holder or another fusible link. Cut the big blob off and crimp/solder all that stuff back together again. The 1 pin inline connector is a generic weatherpack. Use a liasle tool to depin it and use a new terminal on the replacement wire. Or just cut it out and hardwire it
Re: power to fan relay wiring issue
I looked at mine and the PO cut the connector off all together and just crimped it with a butt connector, that wire gets extremely hot, I presume there is a lot of current draw, how many amp fuse should be run there? Any pictures of it repaired?
Joined: Sep 2005
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Re: power to fan relay wiring issue
Yeah that's pretty heinous... it ALL needs to go away.
The black round thing is just the factory's molded enclosure of the splice between the fusible link plugged into the big orange wire and the 2 black/pink wires (probably the feeds for the 2 fan motors).
Don't use a fuse.
However "bad" YOU THINK a fusible link is, a fuse is MANY times worse. Not least, because of all the connections it adds.
Do it right.
You don't need pictures of a repair. An ideal repair would look EXACTLY THE SAME AS it looked when new.
Fan motors don't "cause" resistance in the wires that feed them. However, the motor COULD BE bad in such a way that it draws too much current, which will indeed make even a PERFECTLY GOOD wire get hot.
Each fan motor in these cars should draw something around 20 - 25 amps running, maybe 40 - 50 briefly as it starts up but tapering off to the steady-state lower value after a few seconds, when it gets up to speed.
The black round thing is just the factory's molded enclosure of the splice between the fusible link plugged into the big orange wire and the 2 black/pink wires (probably the feeds for the 2 fan motors).
Don't use a fuse.
However "bad" YOU THINK a fusible link is, a fuse is MANY times worse. Not least, because of all the connections it adds.
Do it right.
You don't need pictures of a repair. An ideal repair would look EXACTLY THE SAME AS it looked when new.
Fan motors don't "cause" resistance in the wires that feed them. However, the motor COULD BE bad in such a way that it draws too much current, which will indeed make even a PERFECTLY GOOD wire get hot.
Each fan motor in these cars should draw something around 20 - 25 amps running, maybe 40 - 50 briefly as it starts up but tapering off to the steady-state lower value after a few seconds, when it gets up to speed.
Last edited by sofakingdom; May 8, 2016 at 12:33 PM.
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