Ac not working, at 50 psi
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Car: 89 Iroc Z
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Ac not working, at 50 psi
Hey everyone, so unfortunately my AC isn’t working. I went down to autozone and bought acPro (I had my car retrofitted about a year ago) and went to put some in,l and got it to 50 psi. The compressor clutch wasn’t engaging so I went and shorted the low pressure gauge and it turned on, but when I did that it still was blowing hot air. Does anyone have any advice? Thank you in advanced!
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
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Lost His Cool
Does the accumulator get cold?
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Re: Ac not working, at 50 psi
Let it run for 10 minutes with ac and cold on max, thing was burning hot to the touch. That was without shorting the low pressure sensor, don’t want to run the thing that long with it shorted.
Last edited by poketad; 07-02-2018 at 03:17 PM.
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Re: Ac not working, at 50 psi
If you have to jump the switch to get the comp to come on, it's empty.
With the comp not running, pressure on both low and high side should be around 100, depending on the outside temp, if it has any cold juice at all in it.
Sounds like whoever worked on it last didn't bother to fix the leaks before they wasted your money on Freon.
With the comp not running, pressure on both low and high side should be around 100, depending on the outside temp, if it has any cold juice at all in it.
Sounds like whoever worked on it last didn't bother to fix the leaks before they wasted your money on Freon.
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Re: Ac not working, at 50 psi
If you have to jump the switch to get the comp to come on, it's empty.
With the comp not running, pressure on both low and high side should be around 100, depending on the outside temp, if it has any cold juice at all in it.
Sounds like whoever worked on it last didn't bother to fix the leaks before they wasted your money on Freon.
With the comp not running, pressure on both low and high side should be around 100, depending on the outside temp, if it has any cold juice at all in it.
Sounds like whoever worked on it last didn't bother to fix the leaks before they wasted your money on Freon.
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Lost His Cool
Originally Posted by poketad
run for 10 minutes with ac and cold on max, thing was burning hot to the touch. That was without shorting the low pressure sensor
Originally Posted by poketad
its okay for me to charge the system up to 100 PSI?
With your gage (hopefully you’re using the type of gage that lets you monitor the low side and fill simultaneously) charge it to 50 PSI on a 100° day, when the comp is turning, and make sure the comp is turning and not just the clutch.
Originally Posted by poketad
had my car retrofitted about a year ago
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Re: Ac not working, at 50 psi
The job of the comp is to suck gas out of the low side, compress it, and move it to the high side.
If it's not pumping, the pressure in the whole system will go to the vapor pressure of the refrigerant, which is around 100 psi on a warm day.
Charge it to around 40 psi on the low side WITH THE COMP RUNNING. Doesn't too much matter what it is when it's not running.
If it's not pumping, the pressure in the whole system will go to the vapor pressure of the refrigerant, which is around 100 psi on a warm day.
Charge it to around 40 psi on the low side WITH THE COMP RUNNING. Doesn't too much matter what it is when it's not running.
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Re: Lost His Cool
If the comp was turning that means the low pressure sensor was irrelevant.
Not on the low side.
With your gage (hopefully you’re using the type of gage that lets you monitor the low side and fill simultaneously) charge it to 50 PSI on a 100° day, when the comp is turning, and make sure the comp is turning and not just the clutch.
Did the system work immediately after that?
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Not on the low side.
With your gage (hopefully you’re using the type of gage that lets you monitor the low side and fill simultaneously) charge it to 50 PSI on a 100° day, when the comp is turning, and make sure the comp is turning and not just the clutch.
Did the system work immediately after that?
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Car: 89 Iroc Z
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Re: Ac not working, at 50 psi
The job of the comp is to suck gas out of the low side, compress it, and move it to the high side.
If it's not pumping, the pressure in the whole system will go to the vapor pressure of the refrigerant, which is around 100 psi on a warm day.
Charge it to around 40 psi on the low side WITH THE COMP RUNNING. Doesn't too much matter what it is when it's not running.
If it's not pumping, the pressure in the whole system will go to the vapor pressure of the refrigerant, which is around 100 psi on a warm day.
Charge it to around 40 psi on the low side WITH THE COMP RUNNING. Doesn't too much matter what it is when it's not running.
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Re: Ac not working, at 50 psi
Awesome, so I went and took a look and my current one is PN 3040500, should i re-order this one or put a different one on it? https://truckerac.com/accumulator-pr...m-3040500.html
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Lost His Cool
Low pressure switches for R12 and R134 are different as far as the pressure they respond to.
Some switches are adjustable.
An R12 calibrated switch will turn the comp off about 24 PSI, and turn it on about 46 PSI.
An R134 calibrated switch is a few PSI higher.
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Some switches are adjustable.
An R12 calibrated switch will turn the comp off about 24 PSI, and turn it on about 46 PSI.
An R134 calibrated switch is a few PSI higher.
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Re: Ac not working, at 50 psi
Something isn't right. Those numbers are garbage. The laws of physics and all that.
In a properly working system at normal US summer ambient of 90 degrees or so, if the low side is at 50 psi, the high side should be around 300.
Re-check. Both at the same time. With the compressor running.
In a properly working system at normal US summer ambient of 90 degrees or so, if the low side is at 50 psi, the high side should be around 300.
Re-check. Both at the same time. With the compressor running.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 07-03-2018 at 03:47 PM.
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