Sal TTA

I am installing a new a/c compressor, drier, and condenser and want to know who else is using this with success?

thanks!!

Sal
1989 TTA #635

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Hey Sal
The R-152a is basically spray can duster spray propellant (Difluoroethane.) It is the replacement for R-132a. It has a shorter atmospheric lifespan, less than 134a.
There has been papers done on it and have goods and bads. One of the bads in using it in Automotive AC system MAY cause shortened Compressor life.

I have converted 3 of mine to R-132a and am very happy. Buy the new hose assembly and maybe a Red Ford Orifice tube.

I am very happy with it. Just my 2 cents.

Sal TTA

Hey Bob, thanks! I have the red tube (motorcraft brand) here now and 2 cans of "duster" at 10oz each if I am correct on the math, 20oz equals .56 of 2.25lbs of r-12.

I live in the Houston area and it gets hot as hell 'round here. I converted my 87 GN to r134a back in 2011 and it was just as good as not having the a/c on i.e. "hot"

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha. I went and purchased all the goodies; Vacuum Pump, 30# cylinder of R-134, the gauges and a 300 piece assortment of the green O-Rings, and all that. Flushed the condenser and all the aluminum lines. I pressure tested it all before pulling a vacuum and then left it sit for 24 hours. Pulled it once again to make sure and to give me a warm fuzzy and then filled it by weight and pressures.
It wasn't a bad job; I just took my time. I guess I lucked out. My center vent will put out 36-40* air on "NORM" with 90* temps and HOUSTON humidity, with the speed on 2.
I NEVER use MAX.
Good luck with the changeover!!

Sal TTA

Man, I hope I can get mine as cold. When I did my last conversion, I bought new everything except the evap core and ran a vacuum for 4 hours and zero leaks afterwards. I had a bad experience last time with r134a and I don't feel that r134 will meet my expectations this time around. Thanks for the replies!!!

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Converted my 91 Formula to 134a and my V6 91 Firebird to 134a back in the day... Lots of compressor groaning, meh temps, one eventually popped the pressure relief valve, the other just stopped working. Last year, pulled the system on the Formula far enough apart to change the O-rings, new orifice tube, new dryer, added proper quantity of mineral oil, and charged with canned duster. This is the same compressor that used to groan, factory hoses, factory condenser, etc. Blows cold enough a year later I have to turn it down.

Did the Iroc too, blew cold too, lost the charge pretty quickly thru bad compressor seals. Oh well, for what I spent its no big deal, when I get round to it I'll drop on a new compressor and recharge, should be good to go.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I have it in both the 1997 Express van with its dual evaporator system and my 2011 Infiniti M56S that is black on black leather. It made a very noticeable difference in both. On the highway running 60+ mph they both run in the 37-40*F range with the a/c blower on high speed with recirculate on a 105*F day. Infiniti has had it for 2 years. The Express van since 2013. Express van is on the same $150.00 china built aftermarket compressor I put into it when the engine went in back in 2006. The M56 still has the OE compressor at 130K. Head pressure went down in both setups, so I do not see the compressor life being shortened rather it will likely last longer. 1 of the 12 oz cans was perfect for the 1.2 lbs system in the M56. Express van has a 4.25 lb system and takes about 5 of the 12 oz cans. The hybrid GM/aftermarket dual system in the Express van took more than what you would calculate to cool properly.

Sal TTA

Thanks Guys! Which orifice tube did you all use/are using? Stock GM, Ford blue, or Ford Red ? thanks!!

Drew

iTrader: (58)

I used a red in one, and blue in the other. Can't remember which was which. Seems like the more 'extreme' option was the one that worked better. Could just be the 91's A/C system works better.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I have two more R152a sucess stories. My brother has a 2014 Nissan Sentra. The newer Nissans use a variable displacement compressor similar to the GM V5. The control piston tends to stick in the low displacement position. Very common issue on Altimas and Sentras. With R134a they will not cool at idle and low speeds and only cool after some time on the open road. Well his car has 70K on it, far out of factory warranty. Rather than buy and replace the compressor ($475 at dealer employee cost) with a new one we decided to evac the system and charge it with R152a as a possible temporary fix. Not expecting it to work we were thinking at worst we were out $3 and 30 minutes of time. Well the car blows as cold at idle as it ever did with R134a and it will freeze you out at 70 mph on the highway. At idle the pressures are only 130/60 on a 90°F day. We will find out how it works as the mercury climbs over 100°F.

I converted my moms 2007 G35 the same day. I drove it to work and at idle today in 92°F temps it blows 43°F and going down the road it hit 34°F. The interior cools down about 50% quicker in stop and go traffic. After 2-3 miles with the temp set at 60°F the system was already reducing the blower speed, far sooner than it does with R134a. The system in that car is OEM with ~150K on it. At idle her car is running at 150/40 with the engine fans on low speed. Same weather with R134a tripped high speed on the fans. Pressure was 210/50 before conversion with a slightly low system. 0.90 lbs in a 1.11 lbs system.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

I ran it for a year in my 88. Worked great. Due to a dumb mistake Im having to replace some components soon and will be doing 152 again.

GMP318

Here is a youtube link on someone using duster spray that has r-152a in it for charging his a/c system.
https://www.a-body.net/forums/showth...A-Duster-Spray

Sal TTA