Has anyone ever used a truck/ van resistor/ relay combo?
#1
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Has anyone ever used a truck/ van resistor/ relay combo?
I'm doing an LS swap on an '89 Firebird, and I'm redoing all of the related wiring.
I noticed that the blower motor switch and connectors look really overheated. I'll provide pictures of the heat damage to the connectors tomorrow. I was thinking of ditching all/ most of the factory wiring, and that big, ugly relay, and replacing it with a unit like this: https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...-05109415.html from a Chevy Express van.
It shouldn't be too hard to enlarge the hole in the evaporator housing to allow for this.
Has anyone else ever done this? I really like the idea of sealed connectors under the hood, as opposed to the old Packard 56 terminals that the factory used.
I noticed that the blower motor switch and connectors look really overheated. I'll provide pictures of the heat damage to the connectors tomorrow. I was thinking of ditching all/ most of the factory wiring, and that big, ugly relay, and replacing it with a unit like this: https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...-05109415.html from a Chevy Express van.
It shouldn't be too hard to enlarge the hole in the evaporator housing to allow for this.
Has anyone else ever done this? I really like the idea of sealed connectors under the hood, as opposed to the old Packard 56 terminals that the factory used.
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Car: 92 Firebird
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Re: Has anyone ever used a truck/ van resistor/ relay combo?
That's not going to work unless the fan works exactly the same as our cars, which I doubt. Nothing really wrong with the packard connector in that location, it isn't getting wet all the time. If you want to replace the connector you have, then use some dielectric grease in the connector before you put it on the resistor terminals.
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Car: Yes
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Re: Has anyone ever used a truck/ van resistor/ relay combo?
Can't really see any reason why it couldn't work, as long as the blower motor current requirement in our cars is reasonably close to the van's, and of course, as long as the speed is controlled directly by the switch in the dash and not by some sort of CAN data or some such from the van's BCM. It's cheeeep enough that it might be worth a try.
Looks like there's another connector involved, that isn't real clearly shown in the pic. Looks like the pigtail on that unit probably goes to the motor. You'd have to have another connector going into it coming from the switch, which would go into that cavity looking place opposite the resistor. A certain amount of research would be required for that connection.
Looks like there's another connector involved, that isn't real clearly shown in the pic. Looks like the pigtail on that unit probably goes to the motor. You'd have to have another connector going into it coming from the switch, which would go into that cavity looking place opposite the resistor. A certain amount of research would be required for that connection.
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