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I have 92 z28, a 305 TPI with automatic trans. I want my car to run cool enough to use the AC again. But on most days the car runs at 220 on the gauge, even on a cool evening. My fans are on a toggle switch and both run. I'm not using any coolant, air dam is fine. I pulled the T stat out and tested it, it worked fine. I did put a 160 back in. This to me is too hot even without the AC running, I don't see the point of charging the AC if I can't get the car to run cooler before hand. Thoughts?
Well, engine temp from the factory is supposed to be in the 210 degree area, that's really not too hot. The thermostat only sets the minimum temperature, not the max or operating temp. The gauge may be wrong, so you may want to check with an IR thermometer when the engine is at that temp to see whether it really is running that hot.
Have you checked for debris between the condenser coil and the radiator? crap gets packed in there that you can't see unless you loosen the radiator and look.
Thanks for the reply. I haven't yet look between the rad and ac condenser. It appears to me that the bolts along the top of rad could be removed and then the rad could be tipped backwards, is this correct? My feeling is that if I'm running 220 on a cool evening, is that on a hot afternoon with the ac on it would go higher.
Last edited by pfsteichen; Jul 23, 2019 at 04:04 PM.
Ive always believed these cars run too hot from the factory. I put in a SW555 temp switch designed for a Turbo Trans Am that turns my fans on sooner @ 205 I believe. Yours may can be programmed to come on sooner I'm not sure being mine is TBI I had to do it through the switch.
How old is the radiator? I've always found it strange that the OEM radiator is only 1 row.
As previously mentioned, the gauge could be inaccurate. I don't think you should be at 220 on a cool evening with a 160 degree T-stat. I have another old car with a 170 degree 'stat and it never goes over 175 on a cool summer morning. Of course it gets hotter later in the day when it's hot outside. So in your case, I'd first suspect a worn out radiator or a innacurate gauge...
It appears to me that the bolts along the top of rad could be removed and then the rad could be tipped backwards, is this correct?
Cleaning out junk stuck around the condenser and rad makes a huge difference, there could be piles of leaves in there you can't even see.
If you have a cooler line running out the bottom of your rad you can disconnect that so you can move the rad for more clearance.
I run a 170 stat, and have my fan set points at 190 on, and 180 off. On cool days I can maintain about 180. But running the AC or on hotter days my temp will climb to about 215. There's just not really enough airflow through the front to maintain lower temps than the 220 they were designed to run. But I've never had any problems even with it running near it's factory temp of 220. They are designed to operate like this without issue.
What size radiator are you running? If it's stock then I'd be looking for a nice aluminum 3 core. They make a huge difference. Also are you running a fan shroud? If not then get one ASAP. Like what was said above check it with a IR. My car is now running around 195, although my gauge says 220. I'm pretty sure I will be putting an after market gauge in mine and stashing it somewhere not to noticeable.
What size radiator are you running? If it's stock then I'd be looking for a nice aluminum 3 core. They make a huge difference. Also are you running a fan shroud? If not then get one ASAP. Like what was said above check it with a IR. My car is now running around 195, although my gauge says 220. I'm pretty sure I will be putting an after market gauge in mine and stashing it somewhere not to noticeable.
A 3-row radiator would require even more air to be moved through it. More rows is not always the answer. There would also probably be fitment issues in a thirdgen with a radiator that thick...
My Ls swapped IROC would get up to 235 while idling and AC on in the current Texas heat, never boiled over but I did not like it being that hot. I verified the temp with my OBD FUSION APP and an IR thermometer. The solution was to replace the stock radiator and single electric factory fan with a 3 row Champion aluminum radiator and a 3000 cfm dual electric fan unit by Flex a lite. Now the car never idles above 180
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Last edited by GASPEDDLER; Jul 25, 2019 at 10:50 AM.
A 3-row radiator would require even more air to be moved through it. More rows is not always the answer. There would also probably be fitment issues in a thirdgen with a radiator that thick...
Exactly, there is a reason most of the high po vehicles only use two rows. There is a significant pressure drop across each row. 2 long or deep aluminum rows are better than 3 or more shorter rows.
Originally Posted by Marc Webber
What size radiator are you running? If it's stock then I'd be looking for a nice aluminum 3 core. They make a huge difference. Also are you running a fan shroud? If not then get one ASAP. Like what was said above check it with a IR. My car is now running around 195, although my gauge says 220. I'm pretty sure I will be putting an after market gauge in mine and stashing it somewhere not to noticeable.
I ran the stock 4th gen single row radiator in my 92 Firebird and went out on the road course for 5 laps and never even got much higher than 210-220 on the track. It not about more rows, it;s about the entire package and making sure it all works properly.
A 1 3/8 stock single core will out cool those champion 3 cores. You could upgrade the pump. Do you have underdrives on the car? I would first clean out between the 2 cores. Then see your ratio of antifreeze. You can run flush the whole system and run distilled and water wetter. I would take the switch out and run it like factory. Change the second fan switch to a lower 200 or 190.
