I have a newer three core aluminum radiator and both fans work. Also, all underside air diverters are in place. The engine gets up to about 200-210 when I get on it on a warm but not hot day and was hoping to go with a more powerful fan. The factory fans are working fine and seem to pull pretty hard but they don't seem to be as good as what I could put on there such as a sealed Black magic fan or something. I may be wrong though. Thoughts?

 

Sounds like a misguided solution in search of a problem.

200 - 210 is exactly what these cars are designed to run. If that's what it's doing, it's working fine. Don't tempt fate by messing with it.

 

Yeah, but my tune is for 180 and it really wasn't that hot. Found an LS swap guy on youtube that added two pushers on the condenser side. Looks clean. Solved his problem.

 

What are your fan on/off temps in the calibration?

Though If you can fit a mid 90s Ford Taurus fan, you'd have more airflow capability than you could ever use.

 

For what it's worth: I'm sure this was considered but I'll bring it up: What's your thermostat ? The thermostat mandates what temp the engine will run at before any cooling begins; The fans work to cool once a certain temp is already reached. (Obviously It's never going to run @ 180 if there's a 195 thermostat in it.

I just worked on a buddies 350 TPI cooling system and his stock duel fans both come on at 180 and he's got a 195 stat. ( You can feel the thermostat open as the upper hose gets hot-fast and then read the gauge. ) On cold start-up both his fans kick on @ 180 and the temp climbs till 195 when I feel the thermostat open. From there the car sat at idle and stayed at about 200 --- fans running the whole time. Seemed like his ECM was programmed to 180 fan ON - maybe Hypertech?- and the secondary HD fan switched signal wire was spliced into the primary fan switched signal wire. (The HD fan sensor was busted off in the head and the sensor wire was just flopping around.......) It was a cool spring day and It might run hotter in full summer heat - but that's what it was when cooling system was repaired to 100% again.




Gotta' let that thing get warm enough to reach closed loop !

 

So my custom tune is setup for a 180 thermostat. Computer controls fans and I have a mechanical thermo-fan relay as backup reading temp at the radiator inlet. Everything works dandy. That word just popped into my head. I'm going with it. It's just that when I hop on it a bunch, I'd like the cooling system to keep the engine heat wrangled low as much as possible for as long as possible. There isn't a problem. Just looking for more cooling power.

AND I have yet to resolve the chicken before the egg question in my head about cooling fans following the thermostat or vice versa.

Should the thermostat close first or should the fans shut off first? alternatively, should the thermostat be open most of the time and the fans go off and on or should the thermostat open and close and then only the fans come on if needed?

 

I'm running taurus fans. Will run 170F all day long in the florida heat. Drilled a couple 1/8" holes in the edges of the thermostat to let a lil coolant circulate all the time. Check your lower hose when the thermostat is open. Rev the engine up and watch the hose. I had one sucking closed before. Went with a ribbed hose and that stopped the problem. You have a shrou for the fans installed?

 

No shroud. Just stock dual fan setup. Ok, those Taurus fans are sure getting recommended here. Lower hose is OK, not collapsing..

 

Ive got two spal fans, push/pull set-up.The secondary fan is for the AC, but has a adjustable relay to turn on at 208/210, incase. Main fan is ECU controlled, on at 205.The temp never reaches high enough to cause the secondary to trigger.Temp drops back to 188/190.Takes about 12-14 minutes for it to trigger on again.Stock stat is 187 open.I also made a shroud for the main fan, as this helps it pull more air thru the radiator when not in motion.