idle like crap, auto x-ray scan data , help figure out wtf is up
idle like crap, auto x-ray scan data , help figure out wtf is up
ok heres the problem, car idles like crap after a head swap, so after checking pretty much everything usual, ..plugs, wires, compression etc. everything checked out fine other than the timing being set super high --thinking the balancer slipped--
so heres the specs taken the moment the car messed up during idle. lovely capture feature. the car will run fine for 15 mins, regardless if its cold or hot. after 15 mins or so, it starts acting like its running super rich and chokes down for a second, then corrects itself, ..this progresses there after on one minute intervals until its finally choking every 5 seconds and about to die;
idle air meter position: 0 steps
MAP sensor: 1.39 volts
htrottle sensor: .064
integrator: 126
oxygen sensor: 831 mVolts
knock sensor: 0
block learn: 103
manifold air temp: 158
async mode: off
rich/lean flag: rich
Loop status: closed
air switch solenoid: off
air divert solenoid: off
No touble codes came up.
to clear up anything i did remove the smog pump and sensors, also the fan temp switch is not in the block, the heads had a plug type deal in the fan temp switch and i couldnt get it out due to it being rusted in . machine shop wanted over 100 to take it out, i said screw it.
ive sprayed all around the manifold with cabr cleaner trying to see if it would bog the engine down in a certain area, but no bogs. all vaccum hoses are new.
so yall tell me. cause im clueless.
so heres the specs taken the moment the car messed up during idle. lovely capture feature. the car will run fine for 15 mins, regardless if its cold or hot. after 15 mins or so, it starts acting like its running super rich and chokes down for a second, then corrects itself, ..this progresses there after on one minute intervals until its finally choking every 5 seconds and about to die;
idle air meter position: 0 steps
MAP sensor: 1.39 volts
htrottle sensor: .064
integrator: 126
oxygen sensor: 831 mVolts
knock sensor: 0
block learn: 103
manifold air temp: 158
async mode: off
rich/lean flag: rich
Loop status: closed
air switch solenoid: off
air divert solenoid: off
No touble codes came up.
to clear up anything i did remove the smog pump and sensors, also the fan temp switch is not in the block, the heads had a plug type deal in the fan temp switch and i couldnt get it out due to it being rusted in . machine shop wanted over 100 to take it out, i said screw it.
ive sprayed all around the manifold with cabr cleaner trying to see if it would bog the engine down in a certain area, but no bogs. all vaccum hoses are new.
so yall tell me. cause im clueless.
With a 103 BLM, you are looking at a roughly 20% fuel correction. The car is very rich and the computer is subtracting fuel.
Did you do that custom chip and injector swap in conjunction with your head swap or before? What kind of fuel pressure are you running? Who did the chip for you and can you post the binary for us? If you did the chip/injector change with the head swap, try the old chip/injectors and see if you had your problem. I had a problem with a bad injector that caused some similar issues at one point so you might try watching your spray pattern when it starts acting up.
Since it idles nice then starts to go bad after some time, I'm assuming that everything is installed correctly, like the timing is good, the plug wires are all in the right spots, the valve timing is correct, valves adjusted properly, no serious vac leaks, etc.
Did you do that custom chip and injector swap in conjunction with your head swap or before? What kind of fuel pressure are you running? Who did the chip for you and can you post the binary for us? If you did the chip/injector change with the head swap, try the old chip/injectors and see if you had your problem. I had a problem with a bad injector that caused some similar issues at one point so you might try watching your spray pattern when it starts acting up.
Since it idles nice then starts to go bad after some time, I'm assuming that everything is installed correctly, like the timing is good, the plug wires are all in the right spots, the valve timing is correct, valves adjusted properly, no serious vac leaks, etc.
the only thing i did was the head swap, nothing more. theres a heavy coat of rtv all around the manifold now, still, same problem.
my block learn will stay fine, then i drive the car, ...2 mins later it starts acting up at idle dropping to 118 learn.
ive messed around with the timing and idle air screw trying to get it to idle fine after warm up, NO LUCK.
as i stated before the only thing i swapped were the heads, and took off the smog crap.
the chip, injectors, everything worked fine before the head swap, fuel pressure was at 12 psi when i checked it.
when i say idles like crap i mean like...
RR = normal
rr = When its bogging down
It goes like RRRRrrrRRrrRRRRRrrrrrrRRrRrRRRRrrRRRrrr
HELP
my block learn will stay fine, then i drive the car, ...2 mins later it starts acting up at idle dropping to 118 learn.
ive messed around with the timing and idle air screw trying to get it to idle fine after warm up, NO LUCK.
as i stated before the only thing i swapped were the heads, and took off the smog crap.
the chip, injectors, everything worked fine before the head swap, fuel pressure was at 12 psi when i checked it.
when i say idles like crap i mean like...
RR = normal
rr = When its bogging down
It goes like RRRRrrrRRrrRRRRRrrrrrrRRrRrRRRRrrRRRrrr
HELP
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