Howdy,
I am fairly new to the world of tuning and have a few questions on where to even begin on my rebuild. I currently have an 89 camaro irocz w/ the 5.7L TPI L98. I have a motor being rebuilt now that is a vortec block w/ heads that match my originals. Pistons will be the newer vortec technology. Cam will be the Comp Xtreme Energy XR264HR(lobe sep-112, duration@ .05 lift-212/218). Fuel system will be completely from the original motor as well as the intake and exhaust manifolds w/ 3 1/2in to a flowmaster super 40. After talking to comp, they suggest that the ecm will not particularly need to be tuned, but wouldn't hurt. But by what I have heard from some tuning shops, I can't get a tune, just burn a chip or replace the computer with a set up from a 99' and up camaro then get a tune. I am a little lost on whether I will need a tune or not and am on a fairly small budget due to college. Has anyone dealed with a similar scenario or have any input on what to do? Will this cam require a tune or will the original computer be able to handle the change? Sorry for the long thread, thanks in advance for any help!

 

thre is no reason that the computer cant be tunes for that motor. it WILL need to be tuned for optimal performance.

THe stock program may run it ok.... but you will be able to get a lot more hp out of it with a proper tune.

Everything you need to rune it will run less than $350. I think someone in the for sale section has everything for sale as well.

 

At the very least datalog for change in BLM and see how far off tune is. you may notice some quirky areas in drivability due to mods. If you do datalog I would have tpichips burn a corrected chip off datalogs.

 

Any idea what tpichips burn would cost? And i'm guessing that the BLM would not be able to adjust for timing differences?

 

Dont know $. See their site.

BLM is for fueling adjustments due to barometric pressure, environmental air temps, and mechanical wear of engine. It keeps engine at stoich or 14.3 (E10). timing changes may affect A/F ansd therefore BLM.

 

If your stock ECM is using a MAF sensor your stock ECM should be fine with a aftermarket chip. I built a 87 Formula 350 with a cam, headers, Superram intake and used stock ECM with a aftermarket chip and it ran very well. I would highly recommend at least investing in a adjustable fuel pressure regulator or a set of 24# injectors as you will need more fuel. Of course doing the data log and having a custom chip burned is the best way to go. I have a buddy that recently put a super charger on a SRT Jeep. His first trip to the track he ran 12.8@105 after some data logging with his tuner got it down to 12.4@109. Pretty impressive differance just with the fine tuning.

 

hey guys, I got the swap done about a month ago and have finally got to the 1000 mile mark. the motor is running great and seems to have no problems other than a few drivability quirks. The check engine light comes on usually during the first drive of the day but shuts off once the car gets restarted. its getting about 13-16 miles a gallon highway or not and seems to be kind of boggy at times considering the hp gain it should have obtained with the new cam and pistons. I ran the codes on it and the only thing that comes up is an EGR failure code. it is a brand new EGR with the correct "spacer washer or ring"(correct me if the term is incorrect). I have heard that the gain in hp could cause the car to run hotter(causing the EGR to open more than needed) but i installed a 180* thermostat w/ (4) 1/8" holes to vent steam. it runs at a solid 210(+/- the 15% difference at the temp gauge). I have checked the tubing going to the EGR and nothing is plugged. Only thing I can think is that the tune could be off or possibly the catalytic converter is causing to much back pressure for the cam set up. if anyone has had this problem after an engine swap please let me know! thanks a ton in advance!
Regan

 

Code 32 is a huge issue and can be dealt with in chip without disabling EGR or just turning off error light for it.

You will never see all the HP from that engine build until you tune the chip for it.

There's some great mail order tune places that get a built engine close. If you go that route make sure they will retune their chip after data logs so you can get dialed in.

By the time you spend money and time on mail order tune you could have your equiptment to do your own. Big learning curve though. There's a half way point that is easier to learn and better than stock for about the same money in end: http://www.dynamicefi.com/

 

Could you post the links or phone numbers to those tune places, Im in college so i dont really have the time to learn everything to burn my own chip? And I would like to eventually delete all of the emissions crap on this car but i would not even know how to approach that. lol Thanks!

 

Old School EFI does mail order tunes, you still need to do a data log...
oldschoolefi@gmail.com

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Old-School-EFi

 

For $600 you can have a MegaSquirt III and the adapter, If you want to tune, this is the way to go. IMO, much easier than tuning a 730 ecm.

 

Howdy guys, thanks for the info you gave a while back! I did finally figure out the problem with the car and holy moly it was a big one! Apparently both my GM and Chilton repair manuals, as well as online sources fail to mention the timing bypass plug under the hood, so previously I plugged a jumper into two of the terminals the book specified and set my timing. Well apparently it didnt work, the poor car was running at 25 degrees retarded(even though the timing light said otherwise lol), and was trying to advance the timing to compensate, no wonder the serious power loss and loud detonation. WOW, I feel like an idiot! lol Now the car has more pep than ever and it is truly back to how it should be even without a tune. Talk about a relief. Just a quick question but has anyone else heard of this oddity? Thanks again!

 

When the bypass plug is disconnected the ECU has no control on timing. It is locked at whatever it is set at. Fact that when you move throttle and timing does not move on degree is a tip off the ECU is out of loop.

It is a common oversight. The real tip off is my CE light stays lit. I then connect and I think CE goes off. I cant remember.