The last few months ive been battling my conputer car runs horrible with the carb and what not. So im getting rid.of the computer. My questions are what will need done for me to do this. Carb. Intake. Distri. Water neck. Shorty headers. And the lock up wiring for my tranny. Anything else?

 

why don't you just fix what you got instead of ripping it to shreds? not hard at all. nothing to it but to do it

 

Nobody knows whats wrong with it. Ive literally spent more money in parts trying to fix this one problem then the cars worth. And even took it to three different shops when i gave up. Nobody knows. And i invested about 6 months into it and have been told to replace alot of things by these thirdgen guys. So my latest advice has been told to go with an old school sbc setup

 

understood, if you don't mind me asking, what went wrong.? what does your car NOT do? what symptoms do you have? do you have any codes present?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...need-help.html

 

Being it's an issue when hot, I'll throw something out there. Do you have a fuel pump with the return line on it? Fuel boil is a real PITA on these carbureted cars and the return is needed to keep the fuel circulating so it doesn't have time to heat up from the exhaust so close to the supply line.

 

I will check and see. But back to my original post about ripping out the ecm. Is that all ill need?

 

You can go with just a non computer Qjet, vac advance dizzy and the lockup kit. You'll still be fighting fuel boil if you don't have a return on the pump, especially with headers.

 

But if the car is fighting the computer would that fix it? I had a non computer qjet on it while this one was getting rebuilt. And once it warmed up the car ran great except at WOT. And that was WITHOUT a different distributer. I think im ganna go put a performer on it as well as a non EGR intake. And HEI distributer. Along time ago i put a performer on and the car idled at 2000 BUT i still had the stock distributer cause i didnt know it had to be vacuum advance. So do you think this would workout

 

You had no advance when the non comp carb was on so poor performance at WOT should not be surprising. A Qjet is so much better of a carb than Edelbrock ever dreamed of being, performance wise and fuel economy. Personally, I'd get the stock setup working right. You never know when your state will put emissions regulations on you. Then you are in the position of scrambling to get everything back to where you started.

 

I checked. My fuel pump has two lines coming off of it that seem to go to the back of the car so im.guessing he pump in the tank. Is that what your talking about

 

I promise if i could figure out what was wrong or anybody could id do that. But after waisting alot of money and time i dont think thats an option anymore

 

Oh another question. How do i ditch that canister thing on the front of my motor with a million vac lines going off of it. It will no long be needed with a different carb

 

If it's three lines, supply to pump, return to tank and supply to carb that is correct. There was also a helper pump in tank that was retrofitted to flow more fuel and have it under pressure to prevent boil on some cars. I understand your problem and have seen the other thread going on with no positive results. Do what you need, but don't hack the computer harness or get rid of what you remove in case of the emissions ***** invading your area.

 

Alright lol. I drove the car today caught me off guard. Started up and ran fine. Just idled a little high. Drove it. Right about at the end of my driveway it died lol. ALSO i noticed two metal looking plugs at the baseplate of my carb. Are those suppose to be out?

 

If you are talking about the ones on either side of the vacuum port for the PCV, you are bringing me back to the conclusion the guy who rebuilt your carb didn't rebuild or adjust it properly. Those caps cover up the idle air screws. Never seen them replaced after a rebuild, and you need to take them out to do it.

 

Yea those are it. Maybe thats been my problem all along. Theres just metal caps. Are there screws behind it? How do i take em off

 

You wouldn't believe it was the right way if I told you so here. Basically have to take a chunk out of the baseplate.

 

This is what both my non computer controlled carb looks like and he one thats on the car that is computer controlled. They both have these plugs

 

Yeah, the guy never pulled the idle mix screws and couldn't have properly cleaned the carb or adjusted it. I can't believe no mechanic around you knew this.

 

Right. Do you guys think this could be my problem? Im ganna go ahead and grind these plugs out like that video. If this is my problem im sending everyone that helped 5 bucks in the mail lol just for ***** and gigs

 

You may still need to get the baseplate cleaned out. But if it works, I don't need your money. Pay it forward with a good deed to someone you just happen to see in need of something. Stop and help an old lady change a tire...etc. don't throw $5 at a panhandler at the corner.

 

The baseplate look like he just replaced the whole thing. Its still shiny, pretty sure he just got a new one for it

 

Still need to get at the adjustment screws to set the idle mixture. Even if the whole carb is new. That's probably why the throttle plates are so far open that it diesels.

 

Dang i am so hopeful. Im at work ill get to it tomorrow

 

Ok guys. Got the screws exposed. And its on the car again. Is there a techique to adjusting it or do i just play with em both. I turned em both a full turn right and idk if its in my head or not but it might be running a little better

 

screw them in gently till they bottom.then back them both out 3 complete turns.this will get you in the ball park. warm up the car and adjust them in or out for the highest idle speed.then adjust the curb idle speed screw. the big one on the left side of the carb. this SHOULD get you close if not spot on

 

Thank you. I appreciate the clear instructions

 

denada,see it aint so hard. you just have to look for problems in a orderly fashion

 

That carb doesn't look so clean to me. If he just brushed it off or dipped it in a tank, the holes and ports are probably still full of crud. I would think the whole job is suspect. If it still runs "stinko" you may need to get it rebuilt again before doing anything else. I don't think you buy a new base with plugs in it, it just doesn't make sense since you need to adjust the idle on the vehicle then put the anti-tamper plugs in.

 

The idle mixture screws under the tamper proof covers will be at factory settings. If you've exposed them, count the turns out for each so they can be reset to the original positions. Go ahead and remove them to clean out the passages with carb cleaner then re-install to original number of turns out.

Do not try to adjust the carb with these screws for best idle or vacuum. Adjustment is made for optimum dwell of the Mixture Control Solenoid (MCS), primarily by adjusting the Idle Air Bleed (IAB) at the top of the carb. Adjustment of the idle mixture screws should NOT be required for a stock or near stock motor combo.

If original # of turns out is unknown, setting the idle mixture screws and the IAB all to 4 turns out is a good starting point and will allow the motor to achieve a decent idle, regardless of dwell setting. Resulting idle may be rich or lean at that point prior to further adjustment, but it WILL idle-providing all else (ignition especially) is working properly.

If this were my vehicle, and the motor had not yet been pulled out (?), I would first properly set the timing by setting it to near 2-4 degrees advanced WITH the ESC connector disconnected from the dist. I would then get it to a decent idle and properly set the dwell (with dwell meter connected to green lead by the blower motor) to get it to waver near 50%.

If it continued to shut down when hot I would ensure that the fuel pump was good and it was recirculating fuel back through the fuel return line (smaller 3/8" line at fenderwell) back to the fuel tank. If it was an '87 model LG4 I would ensure that the in-tank pump was working by placing it in 'run', engine off and observing fuel flowing out of the larger fuel delivery line. If it had headers, I would double check the temperature of the metal fuel lines where they run by the exhaust and make sure they're not overheating and causing fuel to boil into the carb, which could flood the motor.

I'd probably do other things as well...

 

Ok well i turned them both 5 turns out...shes running ALOT happier, like we may have found a solution. The TPS voltage is still barely off but ill work with it

 

I lied. She just idles smoother. I took her on a drive. Shes still actin the same. And if i give it like half throttle it looses power for a sec as if its not gettin enough air and then the power comes back. Well that was dissapointing

 

it is apparent from your posts that whoever "re built" your carb did a half a$$ed job. depending on your skill level,you can rebuild it yourself.its really not that hard to do. you might consider a visit with the guy who did you wrong.maybe not. if you decide to tackle it yourself. there is a number on the casting on the left side of your carb .the number will be stamped vertically. it is the number you use to get the correct kit for it. these are really quite simple carbs,although at first glance it looks complicated. if you decide to do it.by all means post pics as you go and we here can help you through it. good luck,

 

You richened the mixture, of course it idles smoother.

In case someone else comes around looking for solutions to similar problems, I would not open the carb yet. I would first verify that the MCS travel measures 1/8" inch (with a small rod inserted into one of the openings next to the IAB) and that the MCS audibly clicks up and down. I would next set both the idle mixture screws and the IAB at four turns out, each. After verifying timing is correct (set at 0-4 degrees with ESC disconnected and running around 20+ with it reconnected) I'd get it idling and look for a fuel delivery issue-if an issue remains.

Any carb rebuild kit for an E4ME will work. They all have assorted gaskets and stuff to cover all models of the electronic q-jet. There's even an old thread here somewhere that can walk one through the rebuild with minimum 'special' tools.

 

Quick question. How do i turn the TPS. Its not a normal screw. It looks like a 2 mm screw i need a socket for. Nothing i have in my shop can get to it

 

appropriately sized roll pin lightly tapped over the screw head

 

Yea idk guys. Tried alot of things. If i start her up cold. I have to give her gas to keep it on. Then itll idle by itself just fine. Then once its driven and warmed up it creeps up to 1500 and i can rev it to go bsck down but it creeps up and the cars all over the place. But i guess i might as well try that

 

Guys...i think i have a manifold or bad head gasket

 

well, before you go tearing it apart. do a compression test on it

 

I don't think so, but maybe that's just me...

 

It's been a while since I had an electronic q-jet, but from the description of your problem, is the accelerator pump circuit clean? Do you see a nice squirt into the primaries? Also, if the person who rebuilt it did not pull the tamper seals from the idle mixture screws, the probably didn't put epoxy on the bottom of the base plate. Leaks down there are known to drive folks crazy. Also, since they did such a fine job rebuilding it for you, make sure they didn't over torque the two allen head screws at the top of the secondary butterfly valves. I've seen that before. Get a kit like everyone says and dive into rebuilding it. They aren't too hard. Much cheaper than a new carb and distributor.

 

Sounds like the choke is out of adjustment.

Sounds like a bad accelerator pump or dobbed up passage as stated above.

At this point, and as told to you several times in the other thread, the whole "rebuild" is suspect. It only costs about $30 for the stuff to do it. Break down and do it yourself so you know it was done right. Clean it out real well after complete disassembly, mind your eyes if you plan on using carb cleaner spray in the various ports. It seems to be perfectly angled to blast you in the peepers with a fiery shot. You can soak it in pine sol (There was a thread here the other day someone did this with good results)overnight and rinse and blow out all the passages with compressed air. Reassemble and adjust the IAB and mixture screws like naf said. It really is a simple job, just intimidating the first time like anything else you haven't done.

 

Alright guys. I filled up my antifreeze and bleed it. Its definetly burning it. I can smell it. Pvc valve i shook and its moving. I really dont think my carb has to do with it burning antifreeze. You guys agree on it being a gasket

 

If i go get a compression test wil that rule out the gaskets

 

A leakdown tester would be more telling than just compression. Excuse that he is doing it on a Honda, but the principle is the same.

 

Well its currently having a compression test lol soo we will see. Honestly i hope they tell me the head gasket or so.ethings bad cause at least i will know whats wrong. Knowing whats wrong is all i care about cause at least then i know what to fix

 

I notived a small amount of white smoke at the start up while it smelled like antifreeze. Hopefully my motor wont go kaput

 

My Compression test reveals a blown head gasket