A couple of weeks ago I swapped my 165 to a 730 and have been working to tune a new chip since. I wish I would have swapped to the 730 a long time ago. I spent a lot of time tuning with my old 165 and the ARAP bin with decent results (huge improvements over stock). In the short amount of time I have been tuning with the 730 I have a gotten it to idle much better and have the fuel tables on the money (With the 165 I was never able to achieve 128 but instead only close). So far the 730 has been a lot more straight forward and not as tempermental as the 165. MY .02

Cya

 

87IROC350, that's what I like to hear. I will be performing this swap this weekend and hope to get a much better tune than what I could achieve on the 165. What method did you use to covert to the 730? Did you repin the harness and if you did, any problems to look out for? I am following http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/ecm_swap_730/ for my swap. Good luck with the tuning.

 

I did the 165-730 conversion on my 412 SR motor last weekend. I used Mike Davis' info, and grabbed the helm pages from ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/gmecm/manuals/ for both the old configuration and new configuration so I could have color codes as well.

Rather than use '165 pin D1 for the MAF ground, I used the old MAF burnoff signal from D12 and spliced it with the blue wire to MAF terminal C. I grabbed the blue wire just past the splice to the MAF power and MAF burnoff relays. The D12 wire might have enough length to reach the MAP sensor without a splice, but I wasn't able to feed it back far enough in the harness with the motor in the car. For the knock sensor, I spliced the C and E terminals on the knock module.

I'd recommend depopulating the E/F connector out of the car to get a feel for pulling terminals without damaging them. I moved wires to that connector first, then finished the A/B connector, then the C/D connector. I reused the A/B and C/D connectors, but you've got to be careful you move everything right, since you need to move some wires in sequence. This is where the color codes helped. I built a spreadsheet for my use, yours may be different, but feel free to grab it.

http://para.noid.org/~muttvette/730wiring.xls

Joe

 

I created an adapter cable like Davis did in his article because I wanted to make sure it worked before I made it permanent. Since everything went well I am going to repin the wiring harness directly into the 730 plug.

I ran four new wires (3 for MAP and 1 for knock sensor) from the ECM through the fenderwell and into the engine compartment. I originally tried to use the existing knock sensor cable after putting the new style knock sensor in and it kept throwing a code. I assume this is due to the relay in the circuit and after running a wire directly from the ECM to the new knock sensor there were no problems.

I split the larger vacuum line at the passenger side back of the plenum for the MAP.

Make the PROM changes for VSS and VATS as Davis specified in his article and everything went fine........Piece of cake. Have fun!

 

Just completed my swap, but the car is runnig like doocie. My question to you is, how did you hook up your esc? Did you solder c and e together or did I get that wrong in instructions? Was I suppose to pull out c and e then plug the connector back in or what , because I solder c and e together and that could explain why the car is running the way it is.

 

I chose to run a new wire for the ESC so I did not attempt the jumper of C & E.

I read it that if you used the new style knock sensor and existing wiring all you need to do is jumper the C & E as you did. If you are reusing the old knock sensor then you also need to add a resistor between jumper and D.

If you didn't hook it up right you should be getting a code.

If your car is heavily modded it will make it run like crap until you fix you fuel tables. When I started I was running extremely rich around idle because of the larger cam.