What should I tune for with an LT1 intake?
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.3 Gen III SBC
Transmission: 4L80E NTC 258mm Stall
Axle/Gears: Trick Chassis 9" 3.50 S-Strac
What should I tune for with an LT1 intake?
Im starting to get my BLM's close to 128, I am still not getting the performance increase I was expecting, I ran a 13.6 @ 103 last night and I know I have more in it than that. I was thinking about starting to put more timing into it. Im still with the stock iron L98's ported , and we polished the combustion chamber, and now I have 10.5:1 compression, Would a higher compression motor require more timing to create the most horspower? sorry for the questions, but I am at a loss, Im very dissapointed in how my car is running and Im trying to find the problem, alot of my friends are now wanting me to put a carb on it, and I REALLY dont want to do that to get the most out of the motor, especially when I know i can do the same with fuel injection, im just missing somthing here.
thanks fory our help,
Chris
thanks fory our help,
Chris
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Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Mid 13's is respectable for an engine with stock heads. You have the right cam for that intake but to me it's the heads which are holding you back.
Also iron heads and 10.5 compression is pushing it with pump gas, unless you're using race gas. More timing is the last thing you want with your combo. Maybe you have too much and the computer is pulling it back to adjust due to knock. You won't even hear the knock unless it's really alot since the computer can pull MANY degrees out automaticly. Have you hooked up a scan tool to see what's happening?
Also iron heads and 10.5 compression is pushing it with pump gas, unless you're using race gas. More timing is the last thing you want with your combo. Maybe you have too much and the computer is pulling it back to adjust due to knock. You won't even hear the knock unless it's really alot since the computer can pull MANY degrees out automaticly. Have you hooked up a scan tool to see what's happening?
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.3 Gen III SBC
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Axle/Gears: Trick Chassis 9" 3.50 S-Strac
yea i have hooked it up and I received no knock counts, The heads are ported out pretty good and I have 2.02 1.60 valves in there I would hope they could flow something close to LT1 heads do stock, and LT1's with similar mods as me are running mid 12's
I actually have base timing bumped to 9 degrees instead of factory 6 and I still am getting no knock counts. I know there has to be something holding me back
I actually have base timing bumped to 9 degrees instead of factory 6 and I still am getting no knock counts. I know there has to be something holding me back
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Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
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Chris, have you touched the spark tables in your chip at all or are they still stock?
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.3 Gen III SBC
Transmission: 4L80E NTC 258mm Stall
Axle/Gears: Trick Chassis 9" 3.50 S-Strac
well I advanced the distributer 2 degrees more than stock (8) so therefore the whole table got 2 extra degrees, and I corrected the MAT table for relocating the MAT to my air box so. Other than that Im using the stock AUJP bin
Last edited by Chris Etemadi; 06-03-2003 at 07:51 PM.
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Car: 93 Caprice 9C1
Engine: L05
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Using the stock tables with a CC305? You need to bring your total max timing in sooner. Instead of a smooth rampup of 100kpa timing, it should hit the value it would have hit at, say, 5500, at an earlier rpm, such as 3000 or 3500, then stay the same until your max rpm. That should help the midrange and hopefully get the trap speed up and ET down...
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.3 Gen III SBC
Transmission: 4L80E NTC 258mm Stall
Axle/Gears: Trick Chassis 9" 3.50 S-Strac
John, I sent you my new email. Sorry about that.
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