I have gotten my motor together and I am ready to program my own chips but I was wondering if I could use the ARAP bin with my new combo without hurting anything.I just want to get it running so that I can tune it but I don't want to mess anything up by not having enough/too much fuel. My new combo is 355, forged pistons,forged I-beam rods, 1.6 RR's,Vortec heads,LT4 Hot cam, 24# injectors, midly ported plenum, Vortec TPI base(duh ),SLP 1 3/4" headers.If I use this bin will it run good enough so that I can get some readings without harming my engine? Any help would be greatly appreciated.I have done searches but couldn't find anything on this topic. Thanks, Levi

 

ARAP is a good start. There are some changes you will need to make before you start. It has VATS and the fan output is inverted. These need to be changed in the bin. The spark tables are agressive too. ARAP is a Vette bin which is why some things are different.

May want to try a search again as there is a bunch of info here about using ARAP in the iron headed f-body's.

RBob.

 

Also the crank PW tables sometime need some values added,
not a big deal but if you wonder why your car cranks about 5-8 revolutions before starting that is why.
Its really not a bad thing though, lets oil get primed a little.

 

I don't like the arap. Not to say it's totally gank. I like using a 350 GTA bin to start with (if tuning a f-body). The timing and fuel is safer than the arap. I would rather start with a stock chip that has too much fuel and not enough spark vs a bin that has everything aggressive. I like to tune from a safe place. I don't know too many (modified)f-bodies that can run with the stock arap main spark table w/o slight detonation. And I have tuned several cars. I think others love the arap. But I don't like it...

 

for and engine like yours go grab a Spark table from aujp SD code and paste it in there. change the ijector constant to 26lb's and set your base timing to match your prom. expect to have to do some AE tunning but not alot. really that should get it runnin damn good right out of the box. oh and BTW if your descreened your maf put them back in

 

I'm with Funstick. ARAP timing is intense. I wouldn't recommend it on a new combo unless you know your timing requirements off the top.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. My screens are removed and they won't be coming back. I hope this doesn't mean that I'm gonna have to buy a new one. What are your suggestions of what to do since I have removed my screens? Once again, all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Levi

 

Don't worry about the screens, thousands of people remove them
even still today.. and in my opinion outweigh the negative effects.
(mind you most 93% of these people don't even burn proms/PCMs or have even seen a scan tool)
Remove screens effect the way low speed air is moved across the heated wire, usually causing a lean condition at idle but also usually well within blm correction range. Being that you are going to burn your own proms don't sweat it at all .
If you are to lean we will tell you how to fix it.

 

the screens on the stock bosch maf add 1 mm in reduction of total diameter of the meter. this meas and ive fow benched this that they add a whole whopping restriction of 3 cfm. 3cfm but the effects on the meter with the stock air box are incrediab in teh noise department. without the screens the meter goes from 1.4% noise with screens to 12.9 % noise without the screens. thats a consatnt overwhelming error or 12.9 % in fueling. thats huge.

 

I think that the screens should not be removed. I though the main reason for the screens was to get acurate measurements of the incoming air by creating a vortex.

BUT if you remove the screens then dont fret. The only thing that needs to be done is the maf tables will need to be tweeked.

 

I think some times people get a little to technical on this matter...
If you want perfect resolution keep the screens in.. If you like to go fast and don't mind a minor scale of the MAF table keeps it out.
3 cfm? - better check again.
Not that they are a great example but TPIS has been selling them and promoting it for years.. I still have not seen someone blow their engine from it yet.
Usually removed screen only effect low air speed movement across the wire. Even today after all these years LS1 guys are still doing it.
Point of my story, Don't run out and buy a new MAF. Try both ways at the track and make up YOUR mind. If you put it in and your car does not pick up MPH keep it in. Alot of times you will
get laws and not suggestions.

 

I agree with 87 t/a. screens /no screens who really gives a crap. You'll be just fine with the screens removed. Mine was removed and it ran fine...
To get back to your original post, the arap is not a safe bin to start with. I would use an f-body bin. You are conserned about keeping you engine safe for initial startup ect. Then I wouldn't use the arap. Bottom line...!!!

This is how I select maf bins. They are based on the engine and body type.

1. I will always use a firebird bin for a firebird. That's because the maf tables seem to be calibrated for the long intake tract of a bird. The maf is in a different spot on firebirds, ETC.

2. If it's a camaro then I can possibly use a vette bin. I'll use the drivetrain parameters to decide. If it's a aluminum head/t-56 then a vette bin will be perfect. You get the idea..

I don't believe in the arap bin is very good. I don't think "cut and pasting" tables is good. But that's just how I tune. The way I see it is that if you start from a bin that is correct for your setup, you'l have less problems. I like to start with less timing and more fuel. Then lean it out and bring the timing up. The arap has way, way too much timing. There is no "silver bullet" maf bin.