I still have the stock TPS and it's NOT slotted. With that said, the most I can adjust the TPS to is .49

My questions are, can I just use an 88 or 89 (slotted) TPS?

And if not, should I just change the min. TPS constant in the PROM to .49 instead of .54 ?

Any reprocussions for doing either?

THanks and Merry X-mas!

Mike (1bad91Z)

 

I say that you can get the slotted type. I have seen lt1 tps used on l98 engines(non-adjustable). So I would bet you'll be just fine

 

No offense, but I would kinda like a more definite answer to the above questions than "I bet it will work", before I fork over the cash for an 88 TPI TPS sensor that I can't return to the parts store.

 

I don't have an answer ... just my experience.

I have a stock TPS with NO slots. I get 0.80 at idle and 4.30 at WOT. The 0.80 at idle is due to having the throttle blades open a reasonable amount to get my 900rpm idle.

As far as I know you 'should' be AOK with your current TPS. The 730 uses percentages for a lot and this ECM is less dependent on the voltages of the TPS since a lot is dependent on % TPS. The ECM looks at the TPS with key on and this is 0% TPS no matter what voltage you have ... within reason of course!

I don't understand why you think you might need a slotted one? Why??? How do you think it will benefit you???

Tim

 

It will work, trust me....

 

Cause I've read in manuals and on the boards that .54 is the correct setting for the TPS at idle.

I can only get .49 MAX with my non-slotted TPS.

I'm pretty sure the PROM has .54 and the constant for zero % TPS (can anyone verify?), so if I stick with the stock TPS at .49 , do I need to change it in the PROM to .49 ?

 

Mike, seriously, how are you 'pretty sure' about this? Answer that question and then you have your answer. As 11sOrBust stated ... it's absolutely fine the way it is. You only really have to worry about things when you have a slotted TPS on a 165. Don't worry about what you have now. It's totally AOK. Concentrate on the things that do matter.

Tim

 

Bore out the holes slightly with a drill bit.

You will be able to adjust it suit your needs at that point.

 

yes i just took a small round file to mine

 

If it's AOK then, then I'm just gonna leave it alone. I'm just trying to get things as perfect as I can!

On a side note, ECM is switching cells now, (no more stuck in cell 4 !!) :lala:

BLM's are now 124 - 130 during part throttle cruising upto 3,200 or so RPM's with zero knock counts (2 runs through VEMaster).

I also changed base timing constant to 8* to match the mechanicle base timing.

This is the weird thing...

Now, the car is running close to 128 everywhere, it feels like it lost a little bit of power!! ?????

Also, my idle BLM is still 108 ! Soon as I give it a little gas and start moving, BLM's climb to 124 - 128, but when back to idle, I get 108 again.

Any ideas?

 

Anyone?

Or should I start a new thread for the above questions?

 

If im nto mistaken that cam is bigger than the lt4hotcam that i run.... took me quite awhile to get the idle to reasonable numbers blm wise (120's-130) .... Using larger cams really changes the idle kpa and in turn u end up taking out lots and lots of fuel to get it back to 128 .. Also u have the fun of compensating for the self egr'ing at idle as well :-) try making a couple big changes to see what happens and then working whichever way u get resultys, nut im betting on your just still fueling it too much at idle
Later
Jeremy

 

Yea, my cam is a little bigger than the hot cam and has a little more overlap.

What table(s) should I take away fuel from for the 108 BLM at idle? Take it out in VE?

Everywhere else, I'm getting 124-130 BLM's.

Do I have to change the Cell boundaries more? And If so, in what direction rpm wise?

I would have figured that VEmaster would have taken care of the 108 BLM idle? It took care of everything else!

Are there other tables other than VE that effect idle fueling?