Heres a screenshot of me running $8d using PE for boost. Its not perfect, or even close. But its working ok. As you can see, I need to add a lot more fuel.

The screenshot is of a 1-bar setup of course. THe boost gauge read 12psi

 

What does datamaster give you for a 1/4 mile time? Can you send me a few log files?
Congrats on the job!! Cool car!!

 

Havn't run the car in the 1/4 yet. I'll be sure to post logs when I do. There is a few things I wanna do first, let put in a linelock. My tranny/rear has some play. I don't wanna brake it, so I figure a linelock will help me load the drivetrain on launch.


Thanks!

-- Joe

 

Getting close to maxing out the SVO 36# injectors. Keep in mind, we're running 60psi fuel pressure. Comments??

 

25d timing and 1.2d of Knock.
77% DC.
Yes, add some more fuel.

60 PSI, at idle?.
Or 60 at 12 PSI of boost?.
If your running 60 at idle then your going to be in the 70s when in boost. Not many fuel pumps put out much at that level.

Hope you have a Walbro 340 or something like that in there.

Why the wild spikes in the MAP?.

Tween that screen shot and my eyes, could hardly read it...

 

Using stock FPR, modified to be adjustable. I get 45psi on decel, 50psi idle, 55psi at 100kpa, and around 60psi under boost.

Pump is.. 155lph walbro. Gonna get a 255 soon. Or higher.

There is wild spikes in my MAP?

About the knock, it got 1 count while in boost. Which is not terrible, but will be delt with swiftly by more fuel. The issue is the blower itself. The S-trim with the 3.33 pully whines soo much at idle, I get tons of false knock. At cruise/accel/boost it doesn't do it but at idle there just isn't anything I can do.

Anyway, I added 10% more fuel in PE. Think thats enough?

Thanks!

-- Joe

 

I wouldn't add fuel for a false knocks(from blower). This is how I do things......
If you are getting knock counts then check for timing retard. If you are not getting any retard then maybe ignore it. But since you know the engine is noisy I suggest to remove the knock sensor. Once you start to change things on the engine you might as well throw the knock sensor in the trash. My 406 makes the KS go buck wild. I removed that POS. Guess I should add that I'm very,very good at sensing detonation. If you cannot determine when kncks happen on then the KS might be good, I don't know. Just not for me...

 

Not adding fuel to get rid of knock at idle, Adding fuel to get mv up under boost, and prevent any *real* detonation there.

Keep in mind, I still have a methanol setup I havn't installed. Once I get that in place, I'll be able to add some more timing.

-- Joe

 

Sorry, I misunderstood.

I still think that knock sensor is going to cause problems...kill it!!

 

305 as a min, and perferably a 340.

 

Without spending some quality time, trying things, it's hard to state as a fact that something is false knock.

While removing the K/S worked for you, that's not to say it's a universal answer. I kind of like keeping them, for the ocassional tank of gas that's not as advertised octane wise.

 

Been at this all day. so far up to 83% dc, and 800mv o2, w/ a little knock.

I added a lot more fuel, and burned a new chip. Actually, I added about 50% more fuel in PE than in the prior chip (that yielded 83% dc).

It ran fine, I boosted it and something happened with the laptop. I boosted twice more, drove around, then stopped and realized the logger (datamaster) stopped.. oh well.

Verified with the FP gauge, it pegs at 60psi rail pressure under full boost (12psi) so it *appears* the pump is at least keeping up for now.


I'm tired and its hot out. will try this again tomrrow.

-- Joe

 

Still lean.

I dropped timing down to 20d because the plugs were starting to scare me. Set pe adder to 132% afr change. This yielded mid 800mv o2s for the most part.


Then I added the most PE fuel one could add. 149.2% afr change between both coolant and RPM adder. I'll try this configuration tomorrow. If someone would like to check this on a ECM bench,i'd much appreciate to know what the DC will be at 6,000rpm. I'm guessing around 90%

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/7...-For-boost.bin


My gauge still shows 60psi. Any chance of. the gauge showing the right pressure, but the volume being greatly reduced ?? This run tonight, was with a 180f coolant temp, and 83.5f MAT temp. with a BSFC of .55, i'm using enough fuel for what, a 550hp engine?

-- Joe

 

Your more then just good if your doing .55. I'd figure .6 or .65.

YES, you can have enough Indicated Pressure and be out of fuel. Try measuring the pressure on the return line.

 

How would one determine that? I figured it was mainly based on MAT ?


Don't have the capability to do that right now.

-- Joe

 

Figure out the actual HP, and how much fuel was consumed to generate that much HP.

Other then on a dyno, I don't know of anything in car to accurately figure it out.

 

Hey Bruce,

Help me with my math here, if you don't mind.

I'm running 36# injectors (flowbenched) at 55-60psi. Lets say 55psi for good measure.

36# injector, flow at 55 psi, at 85% duty cycle = 40.6 pph

40.6 * 8 cyls, = 324 pph total

324 pph = 204.91lph

If i'm running a 155lph inline pump, and stock TPI pump in tank, one would assume that regardless of the fact that the gauge still shows 55-60psi, i'm not getting enough volume for my PW.

Correct?

 

See my post dated 4/19, 3:46.
You asked what fuel pump you should be using and I said a 304 or 340. With all the restrictions, and length of tubing you want to error on big. At 63 PSI, with 6-55 PPH injectors I was about maxed, on a single 340.

I'm not sure on how the two in series would work but you'd be well over the 155 if the pumps were in good shape.

Might try flow testing you system.
Generate a fitting that maintains 55 PSI and see how much fuel you get in X amount of time. You'd need well over 2.5# in 30 secs.

 

So do you think running this computer is a better way to add extra fuel than an FMU? I am really thinking about doing this too. It seems hard to get the perfect tune, but it all takes time and practice i guess.

 

There is a few issues with the fueling running a *stock* $8D bin.. Mainly the transision from non boost to boost.

Another issue, is on my car for example, if i'm boosting at 100% tps, and I bring the throttle down to 50% I'm still under boost for a short while. The log shows the car running way lean at that point, and can lead to detonation.

A BPW adder for $8d would almost immediately cure those issues.

I maxed out my PE tables last night, and went for a cruise. car pulled until aroud 5600, then started bucking and farting.. Whats weird is the log never shows the PW going higher than 80% dc, but it should be static. But in any event, its obvious I dont have enough fuel pump.


-- Joe

 

I've never known anyone to have any luck with them long term.

Speed does in fact cost money. Scrimping on injectors just doesn't make any sense, to me. And again with a FMU make any pressure change and it skews the whole VE table, gee, what fun get the table sorted out, then have to start over if you change the FP. If you have enough injector, then you can much more easier tune the fuel.

 

Couldn't have said it better myself. Though even the factory regulator will almost act like an FMU under boost.. Like I said, mine sways from about 45psi at 20kpa to 60psi under full boost.

-- Joe

 

Changed the pump:

old pump:

RPM: 5625
TEMP: 174f
MAT: 83.5f
SPARK: 20.4
INJ PW: 8.55
INJ DC: 80.1
O2 MV: 836

new pump:

RPM: 5625
TEMP: 192f
MAT: 101.8f
SPARK: 20.4
INJ PW: 8.55
INJ DC: 80.1
O2 MV: 876

No knock under boost.

So it seems, even with hotter day, hotter eng temp, and hotter MAT, I got a little more fuel with the pump upgrade.

It does appear my injectors are gonna be maxed with this combo. Apparently 36# injectors are not enough on a 500+ hp supercharged application.

Does anyone remember the link to the post that showed o2 voltage and rough AFR's ? I can't search on it, cuz the search is limitted to 3 chars.

-- Joe

 

I'm running 36# injectors with 500+ hp with room to spare.
allthough I also have my water injection - injecting 100% Methanol.

BTW, with my combo I'm running a WB O2 setup with a 12.0 to 1
AFR at WOT and my NB O2's are in the .770 to .790 range,

when my NB O2's where at .850 my AFR on the WB O2 was in the low 10 to 1 area.

 

Hi!

I've got the pump, tank, nozzle. Just need a solenoid, and some line. I'm hoping to recover some timing with the methanol.

I've been going by the idealogy that .900 was 13.0 AFR. Think i'm actually running too fat up top?

It seems to pull harder now with the 02 higher. I dunno. I guess I need a wb-02 eh?

-- Joe

 

810 mv in back to back runs has been a 12.3:1 and 11.8:1 in my car.

Yes, and an EGT would also be cheap insurance.

 

And now I see the light.. haha.

What would I want to see for temps on the egt? I was gonna pick one up, and throw it in the y-pipe just under the collector. (dont wanna drill out the ceramic coated headers).

-- Joe