I've recently made an ALDL cable from specs found on this site and I'm using WinALDL to log data so I can start to understand things before I start tuning.

When I have the ALDL connected and logging data the engine idles 300 to 350 rmps faster than when I'm not in ALDL mode.

I reset my min air and checked my TPS and everything is good.

Is there something wrong or is this normal?

 

According to Vader:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...+mode+ecm+idle

<I>A 10K ohm resistance in the diagnostic terminal to ground will invoke the factory End of Line Test Mode, or ALDL Mode. When the assembly line diagnostic mode is detected, the fuel logic will bypass the closed loop time criteria. The fuel logic will enter closed loop mode as soon as the coolant temperature and oxygen sensor thresholds are met. There will be no reset of the integrator function. The IAC will use the calibration memory table value corresponding to a battery voltage of 8 volts, bypass certain criteria for RPM closed loop enable, and bypass coolant restrictions for enabling IAC kick-down mode. The EST system will disable the Burst Knock logic and bypass the RPM and coolant temperature criteria for ESC retard enable. That will force the engine into a condition where spark knock should occur if the throttle is suddenly opened (Burst Knock). Additionally, if ALDL mode has been enabled longer than a PROM timer value, the timer will be removed from the spark advance calculation. The TCC logic will allow the TCC to be enabled sooner and without regard to the CTS input.</I>

 

Iin other words, once your scanner is connected, remove the 10k resistor.

 

Do you mean that the Autoprom 10k switch should be returned to the center position after Tunerpro connects?

 

If you see this issue, then yes. The 10k is only needed for connection.

 

Oh, Ok, I'll try that and let everyone know if it worked.

Thanks

 

I removed the 10K resistor after connection and it stops sending the 25 frame ALDL data.

Oh well.

 

Don't use WinALDL. Use an 8192 baud data logger such as Moates. Once connected at 8192 remove the 10K and it will keep going.

RBob.

 

SON OF A B*TCH!

I wish I would've known about that. I've been trying to tune out a symptom exactly like that since I've started tuning.

My blood is boiling right now if it's that easy of a fix. I'll BRB, going for a test drive.

[edit] that didn't fix the problem, although it seemed to help. I keep throwing a Code 43 and it didn't pop up at all and the car seemed to have less knock. I'll have to test it more to know whether it helped or if I'm just getting the tune closer. [/edit]

 

I thought I read somewhere that my car will only work on 160 baud!?

I guess I'll need that other diagram to update my cable. =)

 

what mask? $6E? if so, it will do 8192. $32 and $32B will not, but if you have a 1227165, you should go ahead and update to $6E to take advantage of the 8192 (among other things).

 

Is that all you have to do to upgrade from $32 or $32b is just start with an appropriate $6E bin and update/burn it?

 

almost. need to remove the cold start injector and possible disable vats in the bin (if your car doesn't have it). the information is here on the boards. do a search.

 

Wait wait wait... why isn't this **** in the n00b intros? No one EVER told me that you are supposed to switch off the 10k ohm resistor after you have made a connection. Sparknock? I guess I shouldn't have any in the first place. I only get a few, richening things up is only hurting me now since I already don't have real knock, just knock picked up by the scanner because of the scanning procedure itself...

 

1) It can be searched on
2) It is specific to only a couple configurations and is not a global condition and therefore doesn't belong in a global intro article.
3) Here it is, right here in this thread. Now you know, and knowing is half the battle. =)

 

Why would anyone think to search about if they should turn off the 10k resistor in their data cable? ever?

Maybe I'll go google whether or not I need to use different rods to make my motor a 350, afterall that sounds about as assinine as it not being common (public?) knowledge that some applications need not use the 10k ohm resistor after connection through the UART device

 

If you had a problem related to ALDL, just like this guy did, you'd think to ask, just like he did.

If you aren't having problems, then no, you wouildn't think to search. But then you don't have a problem, so your non-search doesn't matter.

See, logically, its quite simple. If you don't have a problem, you don't need to fix it.

I don't have to remove the 10k because I don't have any idle or spark issues. Like I said in my previous post - this isn't a problem for most.

 

I understand what you are saying. However, Vader specifically stated that, "Yes.", the ECM functions differently when ALDL mode is induced. "The EST system will disable the Burst Knock logic and bypass the RPM and coolant temperature criteria for ESC retard enable. That will force the engine into a condition where spark knock should occur if the throttle is suddenly opened (Burst Knock)."

It says right there in plain english that if you hammer the gas, you should see spark knock. Lo and Behold I thought this was just a tuning issue that I was never able to get rid of. I'm probably not getting an spark knock. I'm probably dumping too much fuel in for AE.

On the flip side of the coin, it still could be a tuning issue. But, in light of recent events, specifically the information provided here, it may just be hardware induced. Perhaps thats why it seems that when I make a change in the right direction it seems to make the car run worse yet when I go *** backwards it runs better but scares me because I know its not supposed to be going that way (too lean... according to the scan tool).

 

So, is this a common problem with all scanning software, or is it TunerPro only?

Specifically, I use Datamaster.

 

The 10k resistor issue is in the ECM's firmware, so it will affect all scanning software.

And with my AKM Cable there's no way of disabling the resistor.

 

dupe

 

I have got the same problem and in particular the Knock.

I have learned from RBob that at the address $23 is a SA adder value that should be changed to zero during ALDL data logging (In my case it was SA 8.09 deg.)

Well I did the change and it works.
After that I did change my ECU files for easy change with TunerPro.

You can find it under “Constants” at the “S.A. adder for ALDL (10K mode)”

Please be informed that I am not the owner of the original ECU files, and as you see I put the letter “a” in the version for recognition.

http://www.donostia.demon.nl/32Bv001a.ecu
http://www.donostia.demon.nl/6Ev011a.ecu

I hope that this will help you.
Regards,
Cobra289

 

Cobra289,

So ONLY when datalogging I need to go down to the SA adder for ALDL(10K mode) and set it to 0?

What in effect is this added constant doing when I zero it out?

Thanks.

 

Hi Sena'sIROC
Here you can find what RBob advice to me.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=241823
You don’t need to change it back after data logging, this is only and SA adder during ALDL data logging.
It seams that GM have put and SA adder during data logging, why? I don’t know. It is possible that they introduced because some ALDL test equipment or special test requirements.
Here you got more info about the $23 address.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ighlight=%2423

(RBob information)

I hope this will be answering your question.
Regards,
Cobra289

 

Update

I have updated from mask $32 to $6E and made a new two transitor cable with a 10K resistor wired into a $1 walmart 20A 12volt toggle switch so that once I'm connected I just flip the switch to off and we're ready to go. =)

I'll post a picture later. (so everyone can laugh at it, but it works)

 

What I did on mine, was to put a small SPST switch into the connector body, so as to be able to open or close the 10K circuit.

Doesn't get used a whole lot, since I don't run the 165 very often, but it's there if I need it.

The gray stuff around the switch is JB Weld, BTW.

 

same here...simply put a 10 k resistor on a switch....that way I just flick the switch to datalog...but what I have noticed is that once data is being sent, even if the ignition is off the datastream picks up again once starting the car without the need of the 10k resistor...obviously only when the software isn't shut down in between the on/off ignition...explain this one.