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Need help with idle, stalling at a light and static timing

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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 08:59 PM
  #1  
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doc
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From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
Need help with idle, stalling at a light and static timing

Thats not too much, is it?

I'm running the stock 165 ECM and a modified 6E ARAP Eprom.

The engine has had trouble with idling. Right now the engine seems to like 15* static timing. Why so much? And if I increase the timing in the timing table by 5* (or more), could I then pull back the timing to 6 to 8* static?

Also, when I approach a light & stop or pull into the driveway & stop, the engine slows down to 500RPM and stalls out. Whats going on here? Would DFCO help out here? Exactly how does DFCO work? What does it do for us?

The engine will idle OK, and I have found some vacuum leaks and elimenated them. This has occurred since I was on here last time. The engine will idle smoothly around 1000RPM.

Are there any suggestions on what to program next?

Please check out my sig for more info.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 10:07 PM
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From: ELIZABETH,PA,USA
I would first check IAC counts at idle in gear - you want them to be under 50 but probably above 0.. 0 is ok if your car will idle but seeing how you are having problems..
Is MAF gutted? Probably running lean at idle if so.
Is IAC working properly?
Start car with air tube off cold, you should hear it sucking air loud and get quit as car warms.
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Old Sep 3, 2004 | 04:41 PM
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doc
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
At idle, the IAC step is at about 95 to 108, and when I come out of a slow corner, the IAC steps goes to 160.

I've drilled each TB plate with an 1/8" hole. The engine does not stall out on me anymore and idles better.
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Old Sep 3, 2004 | 09:38 PM
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From: ELIZABETH,PA,USA
Well you still want to get those down quite a bit more..
Why did you not just adjust throttle blades instead of drilling holes?
I would open those up some more or drill bigger holes till they are down to 20-30 or less even .
I guess that the IAC was maxing out before you drilled hole and starving for air.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 06:05 PM
  #5  
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doc
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,149
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From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
Yes, the IAC was maxing out to 160 and that was not enough air. I drilled the TB plates because I would have to go out more than 3 full turns on the TB adjustment screw and I thought that that was too excessive. The LS1 guys have been drilling their TB plate when ported heads and a big cam is installed.

The drilling of the TB pates has gotten to IAC steps down to 85 and with the adjustment screw out 1 full turn. I will think that I should drill out a bit bigger until the IAC gets under 50.

I know that drilling the TB plates may not have been done here before (???), but it makes very good sense to me that it is the way to go for big cube motors and big cams.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 07:46 PM
  #6  
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From: ELIZABETH,PA,USA
Nahhh,
Its no new trick - just figured it may be easier for you to turn adj screw and save some time and effort..
The LS1 guys drill because their TPS is not adjustable like ours..
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