This is over my head, but I think there might be some good info on this page.

http://www.vems-group.org/wiki/index...Ignition%2FFaQ

Seems like the ford stuff needs very little input other than the trigger wheel, and a timing signal. From what I gather the trick is giving the ford module a signal that it understands.

 

The thing about using a GM system, such as the Northstar is that you already HAVE the appropriate timing signals!!!! Since you need a trigger wheel anyway, why not just use something that will DIRECTLY interface with the GM ECM????

 

What are people doing for the trigger wheels on SBCs? I've been looking for the past couple of days for crank sensor setups but I haven't had much luck with google.

 

Why do you need a crank sensor?.

For a DIY DIS, or CNP, just use a ~90 Caddie Distributor, with the dual sensor distributor.
Then a simple count to 4, or to 8 depending on DIS or CNP, with a Cam sensor reset/count starter. If you use DIS then you'll need to work out 4 coil drivers, or if CNP just use 5v for the triggering, of the coils

Set the min engine run speed real low, and then you don't have to worry about the bypass.

Well, in theory anyway.......

 

Are you talking about the F.A.S T. setup here?

 

Yes, it should work with an eDist, but I was talking about a DIY solution.

 

I'm sure if some of the electronically inclined here looked at the Megajoltjr schematics, they could make a similar box that would take the gm ecm signal and drive the ford dis.
They'd probably give you the box if you designed it & gave it back...
Currently, it's about $300 for a MJjr dis used parts setup, but you loose the gm tables. The MJ is map/rpm only, I think there is a mod to make it tps only.

need a few code changes though. I think the ford dis does it's own dwell calc.

Only reason I was looking was because I want CNP.
DIS is the next best I guess...

 

the reason I thought it was cool was the fact that it only took one crank sensor to run instead of the crank and cam sensor of the caddy setup. I figured it might be easier to convert the GM signal over to what ever the ford system needed. What kind of a signal does the gm ecm output for timing control? It says the ford module needs a "sawtooth" signal, what ever that means.

 

if you are retro-fitting a DIS system from a caddy northstar into a thirdgen system(165, 730), you don't need the cam sensor. Its not needed unless you have sequential injection. the module will work with the two crank sensors, for spark control.

 

Cool, thanks.

Looks like I have a lot of reading to do.

 

Actually, the Northstar system will run with just ONE of the crank sensors. The second is there to get it in sync with what cylinder shoud be firinig within the first 180 degrees of crank revolution (or was it 90 deg.?)

 

Ok, I'm new to this, but from what I've been reading, it sounds like the N* distributor can swap in to a thirdgen, and it will run like normal, but it *also* gives you a crank sensor type of signal?

I'm assuming that it has the right type of hardened gear to run of the cam in my L98?

I wish we had good junkyards around here in Vancouver, I think I'll have to order one from Ontario or something.

 

From what I gathered on the other thread the problem with just running one crank sensor is that the motor would crank over for several seconds before firing, and you had to make a reluctor wheel to send the proper signal. I've never heard of using a 90 caddy dissy before.

The whole reason I want to use the dissyless setup is to get rid of the dissy all together, so I can use an Lt-1 intake if I want, or more importantly I want to set the engine lower and further back in the chassis to help weight distribution. Getting rid of the dissy helps alot in this regard.

Has anyone actually got the caddy setup running?

 

If you look at the code, there is no injector pulse for thr first few DRPs anyway. The difference in an eDist vs normal Dissy is slight at most. The slightest cold start tuning error, and you can't tell the two apart. The cold start EPA mandates, are just killer now, so they try not to lose more then 1-2 DRPs. In the older codes, IMO, it's just not really noticeble.

 

Have have been trying to keep up with this topic but I was curious what the Acronym CNP was for?

 

Coil on Plug, or some permutation of that I would guess.

 

Ya, Coil Near Plug, like the LS1's use.

 

Umm.... I do not believe that the Caddy dizzy will work in a SBC. I have seem it done on a Olds motor, running multi-port and a 730. Bob

 

They looked similiar, to me. If not then, I'd venture a guess of a mix and match of existing bits would do it.

And there is a dual sensor 4.3L distributor, which would provide additional bits to play with.

 

A 4.3L dizzy will fit. Just have to adjust the shutter wheel from V6 to V8.

 

I don't have it done yet, as it isn't that high of a priority right now, but I will make details available when I do get it running.

For what I have on it go to: JP Teck

JP

 

So the caddy dizzy won't fit a SBC ?

Does the 4.3 dizzy have cam and crank sensor outputs or??

-- Joe

 

No, the caddy housing is shorter and larger in diameter than a regular SBC dizzy, so it's not a drop-in.