Guys,

I saw a local Tuner guy and he tried to help me dial in idle. He only used the method of changing the Injector Constant. He dialed it in as best he could and said that my rough idle was not going to get any better because that cam is going to always have a rough idle. I know some people here have succesfully tuned a smooth idle. Can you elaborate on how?

 

One more thing. When the car was running baddly (before we dialed in the fuel). 2 cylinders on passenger side were cold. The O/2 sensor had no idea because it is on the drivers side. Could this be a fueling issue? Still idles bad and I am wondering if 2 cylinders are dropping out at idle.

 

I realize that some one moved my original thread to general engine/tech. This is appropriate for DIYProm since I burn my own chips but have asked a local tuner for help. I am looking for tuning/mechanical assistance because this cam is noted for being hard to tune at idle. I am looking for guys with experience with this cam and $6E with success. I am using TunerPro.

 

I'm not a 6E pro, but you need to fix your dead cylinders before you go any further. Having two dead cylinders will deffinately make your engine run ruff.

As for just messing with the injector constants, thats not what you need to do. The injector constants should be set to what your injectors actually are, and only fudged with if you need to change your fueling overall, as in from idle to WOT. My best guess as to what to tune is your MAF tables. Take a look at what GMS/sec your running at idle and find that in your tables. Adjust these tables to smooth out your idle, also I bet this reading is fluctuating alot, so you would want to flatten out this section in your MAF tables that way your fueling isn't fluctuating with your MAF readings. This should help alot. With a big cam your stock O2 doesn't have a prayer. Your best bet is to just tune by smell or pull your plugs. I'm guessing your fouling out plugs at idle and thats why your two cylinders dropped out.

 

From Lingenfelters site:

74219, good idle at 750 rpm

219/219 .560/.560 w/1.6 rocker, 112 CL

Mild cam, shouldn't have any problems at all.

RBob.

 

Thanks... When I drove it home, the car runs great going down the road but runs rough at idle. Could an engine with a couple fouled plugs really run OK going down the road?

I just called Lingenfelter and the tech told me to take out timing through 1200rpm 5 degrees at a time to mellow out the idle. Does that sound right?

 

Do you have any scanner data at idle and part throttle? Sounds like your tuner doesn't have a clue. I had the 219 cam and it is tame and idles like stock.

 

Anyone with a smooth running 219 cam, please answer this... What did you alter for the tune. Lingenfelter just told me to take more timing out at Idle RPM range. I was wondering what kind of idle timing other 219 cam owners are running.

 

ive tunned that cam on a stock tpi before. its a ***** cat. id bet you have a vacum leak. the lower the vacum the smaller the leak is. also the leak doesnt get any bigger and gets smaller in proportion to the total amount of airflow. also with larger throttle openings there is less vacum and the leak gets smaller. id bet i could stall your motor by spraying carb clean into the runner where your 2 cold cylinders are. hmm makes one wonder doesnt it

 

Thanks for info but a vacuum leak is not the problem. I have purchased a proffessional shop "smoker" to smoke my vacuum system to rule that out. The reason I have got into this tuning game is to tune for this cam. After getting sick of burning chips I now have an Ostrich on the way. Tuning for good idle appears to be difficult with this cam as I have discussed it with many on this board. I am collecting as much advice before I implement possible solutions. Most peolpe talk about the overlap of this cam as well as tuning idle AFR as to trick the computer.

 

Damn dude, this cam is tame, I burned my own chips tuning it. Anything that gets 18 inches of vacuum at idle is tame.

Do you have any scanner data? I still have my old bins, but I think you have a mechanical problem.

 

hate to break your heart but a smoke machine will just blow right out the tail pipes before you get enough pressure to push out on a vacum leak. remeber valves are always open on some cylinder. im 100% sure you have a vacum leak. unless of course youve modified your MAF sensor now that'll really screw with the idle tunning. but as a bit of curiosisty how many grs/sec of air you using at idle better be like 7-8 or youve got a vacum leak.

 

I had a similiar issue with rough idle but ran ok on the road. Pulled the plugs and found Cyls 6 and 8 were fuel fouled. Found my Holley AFPR had a leaky diaphram which allowed fuel to enter plenum (via the vacuum line) near the runners for #6 and #8.
Wierd part was I had jumpered my fuel pump on with eng off. AFPR didn't leak a drop out the vacuum line nipple. But,, when I started the eng, fuel was squirting all over the distributor!! :-0

 

I wonder if that is my problem as well? I saw fuel in my number eight port of my Superram runners and my buddies and I could not make sense of it. Could that be it? I will check it out this weekend. Thanks again, I will keep you posted.

 

double and triple check your firing order. when i did my cam superram swap, i put on a new set of edelbrock headers. car would run great except for idle. when i popped the hood after a few days, noticed the protective coating hadn't burned off the #2 and #4 tubes. checked my wires, and sure enough, had crossed them up. car idled like a champ. just my 2 cents

i have close to the same setup with a slightly more aggresive cam (comp exterme energy 224/230 at lift). if your still having issues shoot me your email and i'll send you a copy of the bin i have been using.

sscentral@msn.com

 

Cool, thanks for the offer. I sent you an email, I am most interested to see what paramaters you played with around idle.

I did have the burned wire issue as well, I bought some Moroso wire seperators that do a great job. Also using a couple of those wire mesh heat sheilds for a couple of wires that are real close to the headers.

 

Hi, just wondering how things are working out for you! Made any progresss with getting a good idle?

I had some problems with mine, and turned out to be a bad connection at the TPS harness. I had to lengthen the wires to reach the throttlebody. The stock harness/pigtail would go on but was kinda tight.

Gave me all kinda of little drivabilty problems. Didnt really see anything when looking at my scanner either. I got so caught up in the prom stuff. That I forgot about the basic things like that.

 

It's freezing up here in Buffalo so have not messed around with anything yet. As for the TPS and IAC connectors, they are all brand new. I soldered new connectors on because the originals where dryrotted and were starting to crack. TPS and IAC are brand new as well. Had same issues before I did this work so I know it is not that... If this damn weather breaks I can actually get out there and play around. I also have a brand new "Ostrich" from Craig too...

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 89gta383
[B]Damn dude, this cam is tame, I burned my own chips tuning it. Anything that gets 18 inches of vacuum at idle is tame.

Are you getting 18 inches with the 383 or was it a 350?

 

I am getting 13-15 depending on how it is running at the time on my 355. I am suspecting a leaky AFPR or maybe even some bad injectors. I got brand new 24# Accels but a lot of people say they are crap.

 

Hey gmgod, may I ask what parameters you changed to tune your cam? I am using $6E with Tunerpro. My mods are under my name if you are curious.

 

Sorry, I don't have a lpe 219. I was just asking if that 18 inches of vacuum 89gta383 recorded was on his 383, or another 350. It sounds like you do have a mechanical issue if it runs differently under the same conditions at various times.

 

Ya, I was wondering if it could be an injector issue. I have new Accel 24# but a lot of people say they are crap. Lots of failures on this board. Also having issue starting car, Have to work the peddle. I'm thinking a leaky injector? Do you thing an injector issue would cause a low vacuum problem?

 

I had the 219 on a 383.