Last spring I put in a new cam with about 10d more overlap than the previous cam. Since then, the motor needs to be cranked a "tad" longer to get it ot fire when stone cold. Warm or hot the motor fires right up on key turn. So this winter I have been playing with start-up and with warm up idle. I have done a few things RBob, Jon, and V8Astro have recommended on this forum. Turned up the Max Idle RPM for Cold, Increased the Timing in the Cold Spark Advance Table and more IAC steps at lower temps. I have the IAC Park Position at 145. Recently read where Grumpy suggested leaning the 400/800rpm cells at 100kPa. Tried that today. Seemed to prolong starting a bit more but I'll give it another shot tomorrow. The symptoms are prolonged cranking, by that I mean maybe 5sec when cold, and then some intermittent stalling at around the 40C->55C temp range as engine warms up. It will idle high(set at 1400rpm) then ECM tries to idle motor down which leans out the A/F mixture until it wants to stall. Stall Saver cuts in and keeps motor going and then ECM tries lowering the idle again, and Stall Saver comes in again. This has gotten MUCH better than previous where it would yo-yo up and down. Now it only stumbles 2-3 times during warm-up cycle. I'd love to get rid of the stumble all together.

 

With more cam, I'd try raising the colder idle speed targets, and turn closed loop fuel on at a warmer temperature, first.

 

There's a table at $41E that adds to the open AFR vs. temp table. When I tuned my warmed over 350 I had to really work at this table to get things right post cold start-up.

If the stalling is in closed loop, but not quite a totally warm engine you could play with the values in the O2 mV bias table at $4DA. On my L03 I found that adding a few clicks here made a huge difference in driveability at those "in between" temps where the engine is in closed loop but hasn't opened the thermostat yet.