On an $8D AUJP based bin does the main V.E. table influence cranking fuel as well as any other tables / constants? I'm in search of getting rid of a long crank starting issue.

 

Here are the crank fuel tables with the data deleted.
They are all in the Super8dm_2 ecu IIRC.

VE tables do not effect crank.
There were a lot of Crank fuel/starting threads last year.
Try a search or two.

edit:
I'll probably need this pretty soon so I did a search.
Cold Start?
Start Routine Final answer

 

While it doesn't effect cranking fuel, the VE table can effect *first* run. The high K/Pa values at low RPM take care of fueling the engine as the manifold vac pumps down, as the engine first starts. It takes like a .1 sec for the MAP to drop from atmosphere to a run condition.

 

I'm going post this only because you never know what can happen, or be the problem. Sometimes you need to think outside the box.

I developed a long cranking problem and can't really remember when it happened. My wife drives the TPI converted Suburban and was complaining about the long cranking. It is a basically stock engine. Regardless, I read some related threads here at TGO and I tried changing the cranking parameters, but nothing made any difference.

It wasn't until the engine died one day that I discovered what was causing my long cranking problem. The short section of hose between the pump and fuel line inside the tank split on the side. I figure before the split, it developed slowly, releasing enough pressure to affect the cranking/start-up time. Anyway, I replaced the hose (and pump & stainer since the tank was down) and it solved my problem. Again, just a thought - Ed.

 

Also check that you are getting a 2 second bump on the fuel pump when the key is first on.
If not, then your relay could be bad and the oil pressure must come up during cranking to enable the fuel pump to start.

 

I should of stated that it only has the long crank issue after the engine is at temp, On the first start of the day it fires on the 4th pulse as set in the tables.

Either immediately after shutting down and then restarting or after sitting for a while 30+ minutes (takes a little longer to start after sitting).

I have checked for fuel pressure leak down and it holds at around 40 psi for approx 20+ minutes after key off (fuel sytem does prime as intended with relay at KOEO.

The engine that is currently in the vehicle does have a lot of blowby and therefore there are alot of oil vapors from the pcv system.

I have inj. pulse and spark during cranking.

Timing (base) is set at 8 BTDC at dist and in program.
Also at what RPM does the program go from the crank table to the V.E. table as well as from base timing to EST control?

I did find this but it appears to be only for spark.

***************************************************
* SPARK CALIBRATION PARAMETERS
*
***************************************************

L801A: FDB 3277 ; 300 RPM, START UP RPM
; ARG = (65536*120)/(RPM/NUM CYL)

OK enough for now.

 

Just something else to check that caused several problems for me including yours-if the ccp valve is staying open it'll cause long hot restart crank times, especially after sitting for a while.

 

Somthing interesting that I found when I did an injector swap. To get my car back on the road this year I had to swap back to my stock 22# injectors as it looked like someone had put "somthing" in my gas tank and clogged my pump,filter, and injectors. So I quick burned a chip for the 22#'ers and the car started and ran great. It even started immediately every time you turned the key. But, 22# injectors would probably be maxed out with my motor so I got a set of GM 24# injectors rebuilt and flowmatched. I stuck those injectors in one after noon. Swap took me roughly 25 minutes, gotta love the quick disassemble of the Stealth Ram. So I then ran back downstairs and burned a chip for 24# injectors. I set them at 24.75# for single and double fire. THe only other change I made was i cranked the fuel pressure up to 45psi vacuum line attached, 50psi disconnected. Now, I get long crank starts. And if I accidentally let go of the key before it starts, it'll usually flood the engine. What kind of things can I do to try to get rid of this problem? I can see it becoming a full blown headache when it warms up here this summer, that the car doesn't like to start right up.

 

You might go to the links I posted above and see what others have done already.
And most people simply adjust the first two tables I posted above.

 

Hey, Red, let us know if you get it figured out.