new eproms won't program

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Oct 31, 2005 | 06:18 PM
  #1  
Has anyone had problems with buying eproms (2732a) that will not program? I won't trash the place where I bought the latest few, because they did replace them.

Are there any types to avoid? - It seems that the Texas Instruments ones don't work for me.

Are there any part #'s to look for? - Suppliers?
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Oct 31, 2005 | 08:52 PM
  #2  
I am new to this and am shopping for a source for blank proms....for what its worth I have been told that sometimes you will come across one that will not program. Anyways can you pass along your source?
Thanks
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Oct 31, 2005 | 09:48 PM
  #3  
I have a few that I have to run through the eraser a few times before I can write them again. Maybe you're just not erasing them enough, or not getting the window clean enough.

Teeleton
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Nov 1, 2005 | 01:43 PM
  #4  
last ones i bought were Jameco. i cant say any were bad but seems they do wear out
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Nov 1, 2005 | 01:48 PM
  #5  
I gave up with UV chips. They always went bad when I didn't have time to do another erase. Time is money and when you add up the time spent waiting for the eproms to erase it gets silly. Even at $5/hr I bet everybody that enjoys tuning has spent $50 or more just waiting. Through that money towards a couple flash or eeproms and an adaptor. It's worth it!
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Nov 1, 2005 | 01:53 PM
  #6  
Flashproms and adapters ARE THE ONLY WAY to go :-)

OR u have a huge stash of 2732(or derivitives) lying around.

Solder in a socket and be done with it. Best thing I ever did for my TTA and playing with it.

Only two good 2732's I ever had in my possesion came from Bruce aka Grumpy here.

Socketed the ecm instead and voila flash and go

Hit moates.net for some adapters and flash chips

later
Jeremy
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Nov 1, 2005 | 02:04 PM
  #7  
I just have lots of chips. I leave 'em in the eraser until I'm ready for one, and then put the written one back in the eraser. When all the chips in there have been written, I nuke 'em.

Teeleton
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Nov 1, 2005 | 03:14 PM
  #8  
I've spoken to a few different people now, and it seems that these eproms are a real beast to work with. The latest batch came from Jameco. The programmer shows that they're erased, but they won't program completely.

- Also, isn't it possible to 'overcook' these things in the eraser?
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Nov 3, 2005 | 10:53 PM
  #9  
i have about 25 2732a's and have only ever managed to program a couple of them..
Make the switch to flash/eeproms and you won't even think about using those pesky old POS again!
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Nov 4, 2005 | 02:29 PM
  #10  
Alright, I've checked out the sockets on Moat's site. - But how hard is it to solder that bad-boy in there? I'm not the most talented at really precise soldering.
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Nov 4, 2005 | 10:39 PM
  #11  
Quote:
Originally posted by fatdog87

- Also, isn't it possible to 'overcook' these things in the eraser?
Yes.

If you use professional equip. and erase and program according to the instructions they work fine. Most auto hobbyists buy cheaper products and have problems. Not saying that is what you did, but it is quite common.

Your best bet is to go to re-programmable devices. It is cheaper overall for doing automotive stuff. Isn't there a drop in EEPROM available?

J
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Nov 5, 2005 | 11:39 AM
  #12  
fatdog,

U might want to order two adapter sets, just in case u run inot problems.

Do some searching here on doing adapters and u will get some great tips.

The radioshack desoldering iron is awesome for like 15$ will make getting the old socket out very easy.

Took me two tries to do my first one and I klilled one adapter leg, but it has been flawless since.

Just have to be careful of the traces and be free of static electricity and it should go smoothly.

Worst part was trying it without the desoldering iron and breaking the plastic case from the connector to get to the physical pins.

Work slow and be cautious and you should be fine

Its all worth it when all u have to do is set the proper offset and flash a eeprom :-) to do a chip

later
Jeremy
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