problem programming proms
problem programming proms
I have tried to burn several bins and have gotton only one to work and if I read the one that works into a bin and burn it on another eprom it wont work. Any ideas?
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: WI,USA
Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
Transmission: t56, Auto
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not too sure what you are using but, I have noticed that the pocket programmer will try and reset to another chip id that was used before so be sure when you write that it is the right on every time you change a chip I am new at this too and have many problems but, just keep on playing and you will figure out whats wrong.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
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Not exactly sure what you are having trouble with, but here is something I have noticed since I started doing this.
ALWAYS click on "Verify Eprom to Buffer". This will make sure that the program you loaded in the buffer, is byte for byte to the EPROM. I have burned a couple of "corrupt" chips because somehow, all the info didn't make it to the chip. I didn't verify (I inspected them with Tuner Cat before installing, found certain sections of spark at 75*!!! of course it would have never run since the fuel cutoff was at 2 RPMs!). If the data does not match, re-program, right over top. If you command it to compare programs, it will tell you if you can re-program over the one you just did. This seems to fill in the "missing spots" and makes it all good. DO NOT install the chip unless it says "Eprom verified".
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ALWAYS click on "Verify Eprom to Buffer". This will make sure that the program you loaded in the buffer, is byte for byte to the EPROM. I have burned a couple of "corrupt" chips because somehow, all the info didn't make it to the chip. I didn't verify (I inspected them with Tuner Cat before installing, found certain sections of spark at 75*!!! of course it would have never run since the fuel cutoff was at 2 RPMs!). If the data does not match, re-program, right over top. If you command it to compare programs, it will tell you if you can re-program over the one you just did. This seems to fill in the "missing spots" and makes it all good. DO NOT install the chip unless it says "Eprom verified".
------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors, Whatever chip I feel like burning,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--
'97 Bonneville SSE
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Engine: 666 c.i.
Yes, verifying is a good quality control. Also, I always double check to make sure the eprom is fully erased, by checking that it is blank (option 1).
I have found that if the eprom is not fully or properly seated into the "programmer" that it sometimes will not properly acknowledge the eprom.
And I always install the blank eprom AFTER I have gotten the main menu and remove it before I exit it. If not, you may get a surge of electricity to the eprom and fry it.
I have found that if the eprom is not fully or properly seated into the "programmer" that it sometimes will not properly acknowledge the eprom.
And I always install the blank eprom AFTER I have gotten the main menu and remove it before I exit it. If not, you may get a surge of electricity to the eprom and fry it.
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