I have an 86 ads chip. I was going to use step 3 in traxions article and use the aftermarket chip. does the EPROM not pry out of all aftermarket memcals?

 

Well if it looks like it's soldered in I guess it doesn't pry out huh ! lol

 

My ADS EPROM just popped out of a 28 pin socket that was soldered on the PC board. But from what I have heard, not all aftermarket chips are built this way.
I desoldered the chip socket from my memcal, and stuck in the ZIF socket for easy chip swapping.

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Best ET 14.413 @95.57 without
pulling valve covers or manifolds.
Also with stock 2.77 rear end!!!

 

My ADS eprom is soldered in if it makes your feel good. ADS is inconsistent IMO.

 

Damn. Wish I'd known the problems I'd have with ADS chips before I bought two of them(new in box) off of ebay a couple of weeks ago. Still trying to figure out how to remove the guts from the plastic carrier without damaging the good bits.

Their whole packaging is a joke too. Stick the carrier into static prone foam, wrap it in Saran wrap, and don't make any mention of ESD in your installation instructions. Kinda makes me wonder if there is any code on these chips to begin with?

 

Need to mention which type of system used, ADS, Hyter, TTS, all from time to time use the stock type memcal, or the piggyback memcal holder style.

If you have the green board with the stock memcal piggy backed on then it will Pop out, the oem memcals are **lightly** soldered in. Some guys can pop them out, but I'd use a wick solder remover, and desolder them.
HTH

 

I know what ya mean about removing the plastic cover 88IROCS, it's a ####.
Hey Grumpy,
It's the green board, but it doesn't have any thing under the Memcal to attach to. The legs just go through the green board like they're solder to it. Damn, I was really hoping to just be able to pop it right off.
I'm still trying to get my names straight is it the eprom that pops off or the memcal?

 

Eprom. The "memcal" is the GM eprom and ESC circuitry on the 66 pin female carrier.

I refer to the ADS (and other "piggy backs") as "carriers' with an eprom and 38 pins that flow the ESC circuitry through to the GM memcal that you MUST plug in.

 

Glenn,

Ya got me real confused here. For once I wished that I owned a camera and I could post a pic. But in lieu of that, I'll just have to try and describe what I've got.

-A black plastic case, with one face exposed. On the exposed side there is a green-colored circuit board with a 66-pin female DIPP socket sticking out of it. There are tabs(holes) cut out of each of the two short sides, immediately above the circuit board. However, the holes do not allow enough light into the case to actually see what is on the other side of the circuit board.

-I have tried to gently pry the circuit board from the case, but have only done it in moments when I have had some semblance of patience(those moments are becoming increasingly rare as I struggle to get the Crown to take responsibility for the @sswipe who hit the #1 IROC). It seems like the circuit board is glued to the case(with very good glue I might add).

This weekend, I'll probably grab a 'calm' pill, and then use the Dremel to cut-off the back of the case. There appears to be enough room to do this safely, and if not, I'm only out $39(US).

 

Andy, I know EXACTLY what you mean, that is how mine was. I took an Excato knife and slipped it between the cover and the case and found a few spots where the glue wasn't that strong to break it free from the circuit board. I then kept working the gap all the way around and eventually snapped off the cover. Exposing the eprom and the circuit board.

I then took a blow dryer and slowly peeled the lable off the eprom to expose the "window" on the eprom. When I looked at my eprom, it had a small black "connector" that connected the eprom to the circuit board. Unfortunately, I could see the light solder between the eprom and this thin black connector. I have seen other eproms and they have an acutal socket where as mine didn't.

So I am just erasing and reprogramming directly onto the eprom while it its attached to the circuit board. As soon as eprom becomes unuseable, I will then heat up the old eprom and pry it off and solder an ZIF socket. I don't bother with the cover and I have tossed that away.

I am on my 17th rewrite and it now takes 19 minutes to erase, rewrite and NOT trigger a false SES code. I've noticed that with this eprom and my other memcal, that I can only erase 4-5 times at a certain time before the eprom, though it acts fully erased and appears to reprogram properly; will trigger a false SES code (Code 32 - EGR Malfunction to be exact). But, if I increase the erase time by 1 minute, it works fine for another 4-5 times. I started with 15 minutes, then 16 and so forth.

Just thought I would throw that one at you. The false SES code occurs while cruising on the highway after 10-30 minutes of driving. Now, I just ignore it, do my test and then add 1 more minute on the next erasing.