where can a i get a bin. to try on my truck engine before i fire the unit up. looking to purchase the hardware/software so i can do this myself but require a starting point. or unless someone with experience will do this without asking for my arm. i think these aftermarket custom programming shops are raking us backyard performance guys! i am looking for max. low rpm torque and the engine will never see 5000rpm.

383sbc, 23deg trickflow alum.heads, extreme 4x4 cam, headers, performer intake c/w adapter plate, stock tbi c/w 55lb injectors, no egr, no cat, dual 2.5" c/w flowmasters, 10.2:1 comp. adjustable regulator, stock fuel pump.

 

Get the ASDU bin off of the DIY website. Then, turn all the %VE correction vs EGR Duty Cycle (I believe that is the table... the table with 92.4's in the low rpm/egr levels) and make the ENTIRE table 92.4 and set the entire EGR spark advance table to 0 or 0.4 degrees. I would also set your FP to about 14psi to start and adjust upward from there to get close on the upper rpm/higher load tables around 128. Then, you're on your own...

This stuff will not stop your EGR from "activating" but will not effect the main fuel table and will eliminate EGR based spark advance. The 14psi is too low but the engine should start just fine. Better too low than too high to begin!!! MOST IMPORTANTLY, my recommendations are for an OFF-ROAD vehicle only, and are not emmissions legal in any state, as far as I know.

I started with this BIN and it needs LOTS of work, man... Especially spark table. You could get a GREAT headstart on the spark curve by making a ficticious vacuum advance distributor table that mimics the RPM and MAP levels of the 1227747 table. Just input the HEI spark advances into the MAIN SPARK TABLE and MAKE SURE that you turn the entire PE SPARK ADVANCE table to "0"'s, or 0.4... Then, agian, gotta keep going on your own. You will sheit when you compare an HEI table to the table on the ASDU. Lots more advacne on the HEI and you can still go more when careful!!! It's an emmissions thing. YOU MUST monitor your knock sensor CONSTANTLY and I recommend an aftermarket AUDIBLE knock indicator. It is WORTH ITS WEIGHT IN GOLD, or pistons, anyway, and worth the hundred or so bucks... Don't listen for knock by ear, it will be too late if you hear it for a long time...

 

which aftermarket AUDIBLE knock indicator do you recommend.

 

sorry for not being up to speed but i don't understand this "Get the ASDU bin off of the DIY website." where do i find the asdu bin

 

I use the MSD unit, mine is older and I think the new one is called Knock ALert. Summit/Jeg's will have it but probably not in catalog...

In conjuntion with it, I use the MSD Adjustable Timing Control, which plugs right into the GM connectors and allows me to advance/retard the spark at will. This way, I can advance it until I hear the audible knock sensor sound and then I usually subtract 3-to-4 degrees for the value I put in the SPARK table. One has to drive at a state of constant RPM/MAP for this, though, which can be tough. I usually use lock-up on the highway/long backroad for this. Just need a few data points, though, to get started and a "curve" will make itself present...

EDIT:

Search old posts for "BIN archive" (or "repository") and you'll find an address for the BIN REPOSITORY. 1227747 ECU, 42 definition file. ASDU is the BIN that will work.


[This message has been edited by FastBroker (edited March 13, 2001).]

 

prscarf,

There is no BIN or PROM begging or selling on this board. Normally posts like this will be deleted without warning. However, since you and fastbroker already have a discussion going I will ease back and just lock the post. Fastbroker gave a good place for you start on this on your own.

Tim

------------------
TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org