Here's the deal. I just got done reading one of Fastbroker's replies and looked over his spark table. I have a generic table set up in my Haltech, but would like to optimize it. The Haltech doesn't use the knock sensor, so you have to guess where to set the timing. The knock sensor is installed in the motor. Is there anything I could set up to "hear" the knock sensor? How can I stop the drivetrain noise from giving me false knock readings? Thanks for your help in advance.

------------------
1992 Camaro Z28; Engine:383 w/Ported Edelbrock RPM heads. Lunati Solid Roller Cam 224/232 .502/.502, Fluidampr, Comp Cams 1.5 Roller rockers and lifters, Comp Cams Triple Valvesprings, SVO 30 lb injectors. Holley/Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump, Haltech E6GM DFI, SLP 1 3/4" headers, 4" Mufflex, T56, SLP Clutch, Pro-5.0 Shifter, 4.10 Gear, Auburn Offroad Pro Posi. Super Ram. 17" X 9.5" Ronal FireHawk Rims w/ 275 40ZR17 Bridgestone RE 730's up front and Nitto Drag NT 555R's out back.

Double-Pump This! EFI Rules!

 

MSD sells a kit that I mpropmote called an Audible Knock Sensor. Little box with LED's and a sound generator. Pretty cool...

Not sure how/if you can eliminate the natural frequency resonances of a solid valvetrain system. Buy a "tuned" knock sensor (?) or tune the knock sensor you have(?), I guess.

The spark curve I posted is a pretty mellow HEI-type curve and you should not have any knock problems with it, IMO. As long as your system is set up correctly with the corect initial advance, that is.

[This message has been edited by FastBroker (edited March 27, 2001).]

 

Fastbroker, thanks for the info. Anyway, I understand why you called the quickmaps mellow in an ealier post. I was having a hard time understanding how to make it more aggressive until I saw your spark table. The Haltech uses bar graphs to adjust spark. It makes more sense when seeing the numbers in the spreadsheet with rpm AND load parameters, instead of at one rpm. Anyway, what would you change on the table you posted to make it more aggressive? The total advance looks about right to me. I'm going to try bumping up the idle no load timing to 30-35 degrees to help smooth the idle and make it run cooler. Bumping it to 25 made a noticable difference. Thanks again for the help.

------------------
1992 Camaro Z28; Engine:383 w/Ported Edelbrock RPM heads. Lunati Solid Roller Cam 224/232 .502/.502, Fluidampr, Comp Cams 1.5 Roller rockers and lifters, Comp Cams Triple Valvesprings, SVO 30 lb injectors. Holley/Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump, Haltech E6GM DFI, SLP 1 3/4" headers, 4" Mufflex, T56, SLP Clutch, Pro-5.0 Shifter, 4.10 Gear, Auburn Offroad Pro Posi. Super Ram. 17" X 9.5" Ronal FireHawk Rims w/ 275 40ZR17 Bridgestone RE 730's up front and Nitto Drag NT 555R's out back.

Double-Pump This! EFI Rules!

 

Start consevative, and do ALOT of plug reading. Folks often get stuck on Knock sensors, but there have been hipo engines for years with out all this new fangled electronic stuff

 

I agree with Grumpy. I cannot tell you how to change or make your curve more OR less aggressive as I do not have your motor to tune on. You have to do it yourself and I suggest the MSD device. it DOES NOT LIE and gives you all the piece of mind you need that you kave no knock.

i am confident that the curve I gave you is rather mellow for your setup and you will have to go from there. i cannot/do not want to be responsible for melted pistons or blown head gaskets far from home. you would be rather pissed at me.

Don't go too far at idle. I would think 25 is about all you'd need, but I guess you can find out on your own. The only other suggestion that I will give is to have the advance (mechanical advance on the curve I posted) end a little earlier as it ends at 3000rpm, I believe there. you could end it at, say, 2400rpm so that the total advance comes in a little faster but again, BE CAREFUL ABOUT KNOCK OR YOU WILL HAVE TO REBUILD YOUR ENGINE AND MAY INJURE OR KILL YOURSELF!!! BE CAREFUL!!! Get the MSD sensor before doing ANY ADVANCE WORK!!! Or some other POSITIVE knock sensing device...

 

Thanks for all of the help. I understand the ill effects of bad/too much timing and that's why my current curve is pretty mellow. I've got the WOT curve pretty well set but would like to improve the part throttle for fuel economy/driveability. I talked to a guy that has tuned his DFI on a few motors and he said he has run up to 40 degrees timing at idle to smooth it and generate less heat. Trust me, I'll experiment and do what's right on the conservative side. I'm gonna have to invest in the knock sensor deal, but for now I'll have to use common sense and good ol' plug readin'. Its hard to read plugs at part throttle applications though. Don't worry, I never hold anyone else accountable for something I screw up. Thanks again.

------------------
1992 Camaro Z28; Engine:383 w/Ported Edelbrock RPM heads. Lunati Solid Roller Cam 224/232 .502/.502, Fluidampr, Comp Cams 1.5 Roller rockers and lifters, Comp Cams Triple Valvesprings, SVO 30 lb injectors. Holley/Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump, Haltech E6GM DFI, SLP 1 3/4" headers, 4" Mufflex, T56, SLP Clutch, Pro-5.0 Shifter, 4.10 Gear, Auburn Offroad Pro Posi. Super Ram. 17" X 9.5" Ronal FireHawk Rims w/ 275 40ZR17 Bridgestone RE 730's up front and Nitto Drag NT 555R's out back.

Double-Pump This! EFI Rules!