Finally got to tuning the car today. Been soo busy with everything else, the jetboat computer fried (about $900) so that's parked for the season.

Anyhow, I fixed the lean pops with tons of AE. You guys were right, I had to add about 200% more ae than super_8d has in stock form. Cleared right up.

Next thing I had to fix was the spark table. maybe it's just me but, the Super_8d spark table is insane. Or maybe its just insane with my cam, but it seemed like from a dead stop an accel made the advance go up and down.

Heres the timing table i ended up with. As always, i'd like to get comments. My combination can't be *that* different that a lot of guys.

Btw, there is NO PE spark. Just main table.

-- Joe

 

I've been playing with mine all day today. Finally just gave up tweaking the stock and S_tables and just started from scratch. No PE spark yet either.
The high values in the overrun region help allot for cruising at speed so you don't get too much engine braking from it.
The higher values (43 & 46) in the 40-50 range at 1600 RPM have been giving me fits on my combo. Seems to only like around 39 there to keep from getting counts.
I'm also running a bit more spark in the lower 1200-1800 RPM range. Feels good so far. Need to beat on it some more to be sure. Could be that my loading there is less from the converter being 2K.
Not sure if your running stick or not. I've got a bunch of knock when I hit 4th with the converter locking. Timing at 30 still won't stop it, nor will fuel.
Might want to feather in the region below 1200 so on startup it comes up nice.
You may want to flatten out the coolant correction table at 20.4 so your main tables are the values you get.
I added a bit of advance (4*) in that table for use during warmup in the 20-80 C range to help with my OL idle.
Kinda freaked me out at first until I realized TC has the table shown in reverse of TP.

 

I've never liked the high timing values in the Super AUJP.

Its the main reason I do not run it.

I havent played with a TPI/HSR/Superram setup that has needed more than 32 degrees or so for max power either. Including alum and iron heads(believe the trick flow 23deg are alum?)

U might want to try bringing down some timing and pulling out the accompanying fuel and see what happens. Some combinations it works very well.

I hear you on the AE fueling. U start playing around more than likely your gonna need some huge numbers to get rid of the lean stumbles on tip in once its not stock anymore.

As for the TCC control I set mine up so when I'm "on it" it doesnt lock, when I'm "off it" it will lock. Just makes the most sense to me and fixed 95% of my knocking when converter locks syndrome which you are experiencing as well. Locks up under lite cruise and stays unlocked at heavy throttle openings.

Also tends to make the converter lock/unlock more attuned to your driving style rather than hunting in and out.

later
Jeremy

 

I have a little bit of knock, so the 36d might come down to 32 or so. But things like that are best tried at the track.

I don't really thing the stock super aujp has a lot of timing. The high (40+) areas are great for decel. Keep in mind, I idle around 77kpa, and the second I "get on it" i'm at 100kpa.

I'm not sure I follow your logic on the TCC control, but I've always had manual cars. I'd think (for track use) you'd want to lock the converter by the 60ft mark, and keep it locked until the end.??

-- Joe

 

I've got a little bit of knock, but nothing too serious. I needed to ramp the timing in quick or it would bog. needed tons of ae for the miniram. Otherwise it runs strong.

Cranks for like 1/2 second and fires now, even after being cold. I'm really happy with how i have it now.

This is OPEN loop of course.

 

When I had the CC306 I had more timing in at idle.....

 

What did the more idle timing do for you? Smooth things out? Bring back vac?

-- Joe

 

I run 30 degrees timing at idle. I experimented with timing from 18 to 30 degrees and found best vacuum and a smoother idle with more timing. The engine also used less air even at the same idle speed, indicating it was more efficient with more timing.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...auntitled1.jpg

SA adjusted from 22-32 degrees

Whole post is https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...highlight=idle

/N.

 

Did you ramp down, then back up,or did you pretty much run 30 degrees and than advance out from there?

I'd love to see your advance table.

-- Joe

 

I ramped the timing down at higher LV8 levels on the same RPM rows. The timing goes higher hoing up in RPM in the same LV8 area. I'll post the table tonight from home.

 

I see what he's saying, use the TPS% unlock so it only locks at low loads and light throttle. Makes sense and should work for my problem.
I've been hesitant to lock the converter too early because I'm afraid of overpowering it and have it start slipping or some other type of problem.
Don't know how hard they can hold.

Back to your subject, I haven't gotten into the far end of the load at high revs yet and am trying to find the amount of SA that "should" be being pulled out. Kinda like the vac advance does on an HEI. Haven't found any good evidence on the rate of SA vs Vacuum to compare to. At least there would be some reference to gauge where I should be respectfully.
Might save a half a dozen hard romps on the motor .
Have you put any thought into that?