So these are my first data logs...

The first one is a little cruise around town, and then on to interstate....look at all the "knocking" that can't be normal?? The knocks start out higher, cuz I was logging earlier, but my lappy died again, so it just continued from the first number, but I had another log of interstate, but that first time it knocked like mad when my TCC locked, cuz i was on an incline... Also, as you can see around 45-50 is when my TCC locks plus this is when I can actually hear knocking...does that happen to any1 else, or what's causing that?? Also, while cruising around 70 or so, I get some knock retard....is that normal?

http://www.mysharefile.com/v/1287569...conds.csv.html

Do my numbers look very bad??


This one is a little close to WOT run, I had a better one, but my lappy died before I got it recorded so this'll have to do, but I broke em loose for a few seconds anways...

http://www.mysharefile.com/v/3003719...conds.csv.html

How do these numbers look?

Thanks!
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86' Iroc-Z 305 TPI, Custom 3'' Flowmaster Exhaust, Astrostart, Ram-Air

 

From just a quick glance by a non-expert tuner....

1. Idle RPM is rolling far to wide a range, need to find out why. vacuum leak?
2. Need to speed up the knock recovery rate percentage. Actually only had a couple of knocks occur at tip in (need more AE fuel?) and one knock later on during the decel, but the spark retard lasted forever
3. TPS voltage should have gone over 4.0 volts if you really were WOT
4. Injector pulse width up at 10ms? What was the duty cycle? May need to up fuel pressure or get bigger injectors...
5. O2 voltages are in the ball park
6. Why the big diff in the two spark values? I would have thought the difference would be constant.... (but I'm no expert!)

Hope this helps a little bit.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!!

How do i speed up the knock recovery?? I'm not currently able to burn/emulate chips, only logging so far...is there a way w/out chip changes??

TPS goes past 4 volts when i manually go WOT..actually goes almost to 5 volts....And I have adjusted the kick-down according to the TECH page....hmmm?

Oops, i uploaded the same one twice...i'll havta get the crusing one uploaded...

Once again, thanks!

 

OK, here is the cruise around town and interstate driving log, sorry about that, thanks for looking!

http://www.mysharefile.com/v/6669246...state.csv.html

 

Only way is thru prom burning, so never mind. As far as the TPS voltage, anything over 4v is fine, didn't know if you went all the way to WOT or not when I looked at the log.

If you're not prom burning, why are you asking since you can't change anything? Especially in this forum.....

 

I said i'm not burning yet, i'm just logging, trying to understand the data, and maybe correct a few things that might need correcting before i go ahead and just burn chips, cuz then once i do correct mechanical things it'll probably change the data values, and i'm not to keen as to what values are correct yet, do you have a recommendation of where I can look to find solid info about what each value means, i looked thru the stickies, but they're only bits and peices of what things mean, nothing solid, or what values are normal, or what I should be looking for...

Thanks!

 

Ah, looking for the infamous EFI glossary, eh? Which parameters do what, etc.? Yep, I wish I had one of those as well. A lot of us do. Maybe someday we can get one pulled together, but I don't know of one other than the brief comments in the TunerPro XDF files and the TunerCat help section. Neither is in "plain everyday language for dummies" like myself, though. I wonder if I could get enough help from the guru's if I took on that project? Hmmmmm..... may just have to look into that.

Getting your mechanicals down solid before starting tuning is sound logic. The only thing I saw in your second datalog that made me wonder is the rolling idle. 600-1100 RPM if I remember correctly. That's pretty drastic, especially since you're still running the stock chip and motor. That often points to a vacuum leak or very lean condition. Since you haven't changed anything, it shouldn't be lean. So the next step would be verify there's no vacuum leak and that the idle setting is correct on the TB blades. Thoroughly checking for loose intake bolts, old cracked vac hoses, etc., would be my next step.

 

Hmm, i'm not seeing the rolling idle, when i'm sitting in park, it's showing me idling at 750-800 rpms, and then when I put it in gear, it's dropping to 650 rpm and then as I give it some gas, the TPS goes up and the rpms go up to the 1000, and then my speed starts to pick up....about which sample are you seeing the rolling idle?

The vacuum leak, i've got a vacuum gauge permantly installed, sitting at idle in park it's pulling 21 inches, and then when I put it in gear, it goes down to about 20 or so inches, and then as I accelerate it's showing anywhere in between 15 and 20 inches. I do notice that everytime it shifts into the next gear 1 to 2...etc, the vacuum goes down a few inches, and then when it shifts into overdrive the vacuum goes waaay down, below 10, but if I hold my throttle the same the vacuum will come back up. And if I let off the gas completly to start breaking the vacuum goes all the way up to 22 to 25 depending on how fast I was orginally going. Is that normal operation??

What do you think is causing all the knocking when the TCC kicks in?? Also, is that normal for there to be some knock retard at cruising speed around 70ish?? I do have the EGR removed, because it wasn't' functioning to begin with, I havn't got around to putting a new one on, but i'm thinkin that might have something to do with it?? Hmmm.

I did notice while scanning thru the logs, that as I accerlate right away my BLM goes high, meaning that it's not getting enough fuel right?? Because then it has to multiply by a higher number to get the right fuel and then as I level off, it evens itself out. Is that normal? Or does that mean that i'm not pushing enough fuel pressure?

I did buy a brand new memcal from the dealer, because I had the bugged prom in there, I think i'mma put the bad memcal back in and see what values I can log, and then compare the two, maybe it's the newer chip?

Thanks again!

 

Good meeting you at the party last night!

Those vacuum numbers sound about right, a little high if anything.

You can't change any settings in your prom without getting into the prom burning stuff.

I'd concentrate on trying to get an EGR or set of valve covers/rockers that don't rattle on the valve covers. That alone is going to cause you all sorts of problems: Not getting the full lift on the valves, knock sensor may be picking up that noise as detonation or pinging and retarding the spark advance, etc.

Different rockers (unless you can get a smaller EGR to work) might be the easiest way to go for now. But that definitely has to be fixed before you even worry about prom settings, other wise you're just going to be chasing your tail.

I wonder if you could make up an adapter plate for the intake manifold so the EGR could be mounted remotely? (i.e., EGR not on the intake manifold, just have piping that runs to the intake from where ever you mount the EGR valve). Might be something to try until you can get another intake manifold with the EGR located so you can use taller valve covers....