Hey I just bought a AEM UEGO wideband for my car and i am installing it soon. I have been reading all different things where to install the bung.

My exhaust....hooker 2055s (no air) Hooker Y pipe and NO CATS.

Where do I weld the bung in? In the mid pipe just after the Y?

Also there is a 0-5V input can i wire this to the PCM for my tunning software?

Jay

 

I usually install the bung in the collector. I connect the 0-5v output to either pin A3 or F14 on the 730 ECM. It depends on which ECM you have.

 

Wont installing it in the collector make it only read one bank? I was thinking right when the y pipe meets?
I have a 1994 LT1 PCM too.

Jay

 

Yes, it will only read one bank. I run one in each bank during "testing" sessions. You could put it in the Y-pipe. Just make sure you have it clocked correctly so it doesn't collect water.

94 PCM.......no idea what inputs are unused on that one.

 

good question i was wondering the same thing, i figured in the y pipe joint is the best place to read a true motor air fuel ratio

but i have heard since its so far from the hot end of the motor, that lack of temp could slow the signal down to the ecm. not sure tho

else get the FAST dual wideband sensor kit and put on in both banks

 

If that AEM kit has a heated sensor then you can put it in the Y-pipe. If not, then put it as close as possible to the heads.
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You can run two WBO2 sensors using pin A3 and F14 (or others) on the GM 730 ECM with a code mod. I had a DIY-WBO2 and a JAW-WBO2 in each bank and it worked fine.

 

it says mount the sensor 18inches min from the exhaust port and if running race fuel,turbo etc mount at least 36 inches.


Jay

 

The instruction are so you do not over-heat the sensor.
A heat sink can be used if you are closer than recommended.
Y pipe would be best but mine (LC1) didn't reach so I put a bung in each collector so I can read them if needed.
Currently I have EGT in one and the WB in the other.

 

The farther from the engine, the longer it must wait for the exhaust to arrive at that point to get a read. Close enough to the engine, and it can actually see the slugs from each cylinder separately.
The closer to the engine, the more chance of over heating the sensor by the still burning exhaust.
Mine is a true dual, no Y pipe, no cross over, dual CATs, so I've got two bungs, one in each pipe just ahead of the CAT.
Bungs are cheap. Engines are not. The sensor is somewhere between.
If I was you, I'd put one in the Y for an over-all read, and one in each collector for a bank read while tuning. There's no reason other than esthetics, and trouble, that you couldn't put a bung in each down pipe 24 inches or so down the pipe, and be able to see each cylinder separately while tuning. There are more expensive systems that do use 8 sensors and do just exactly that.
There's no law that you can't move the sensor between runs.

 

i seen this thread and you seem to know some pretty good detail on these wideband O2 sensors... My question is I am looking to go to one, I have a mod 327 TPI from a 91 camaro. I am looking at the AEM 30-2310 inline controled wideband controler, i am curious if that is just a plug and play into my ECM 1227730?

 

My experience is that just behind collector(ceramic coating) in ext pipe I fried 2 sensors. Innovate said to add the SS heat sink and move it back. I did so about 16 inches and never had another failure.

 

I believe that aem will work, you will need to start with the s_aujp v4

http://www.dynamicefi.com/TT-1.php

 

I think it's engine heat on outside of sensor, not heat on sensor in exhaust pipe... and it's copper...

 

It seems that it would be best to put it in so it will read the exhaust from both sides. I'm getting one for my car and have been wondering where to put the darn thing.

 

I take back what I said above about it being heat outside and needing the sink.

Read on TT-1 WideBand instructions say install WB O2 sensor about three feet from exhaust ports. So that would be... like you said 16 inches past collector... depending on header!

From looking at them it looks like LC-1 and TT-1 both use Bocsh WB O2 sensor.

 

Almost all WB setups use the same type of bosch LSU4 series sensor. The older WB's used an NTK sensor, but those are dinosaurs now. The sensor is an OEM VW sensor that can be found at Autozone for 60 bucks, they come in a few different versions with the main difference being the length of wire.

LSU sensors dont really need the heat from the exhaust to operate, they are precisely temperature regulated and work fine even way back after the mufflers. So you dont need to heat them with exhaust gas, but you CAN over-heat them.

 

Good explanation, should have known that because they just stick a wideband in tailpipe on a dyno, as long as theres no CAT.

A guy on another forum said there is an emissions machine that can measure AFR at tailpipe after a Cat? Don't understand how you can get an accurate AFR after a catalytic converter? But that's off topic...

 

The Dynojet where I used to work took the WB reading at the tailpipe, which on cars with cats would be after the cat. Honestly I dont think the cats will make that big of a difference, although I have never personally tested the AFR before and after.

 

I have had an LC1 wideband system installed on my car for several years now with no issues. it was at the collector on my 383 camaro for a year.

Then on my turbo setup it sits about 9-10 inches from the outlet of the turbine housing! Never overheated it, still reads fine after 2 years and those exhaust parts get hot...the housing glows orange/red.

My new setup will be moving it about 3 ft from the turbine housing since the turbo is moving forward 2 ft.

 

Not sure who you mean by "you" ?
Plug and play, no.
The stock code in the ECM has no allowance for the WB, but if you're hacking the calibration there is likely a sensor you can "redirect" to read the wideband.
I've not personally done anything with that ECM in particular, but the information likely does exist on this site, as many others have done it.

 

I'm not sure it is off-topic ?
If you wish to install after the CAT, what I didn't know when I did mine, was the chemistry involved in exactly how the sensor works internally.
If you have no, nada, zip, zero exhaust leaks, you should be able to install the sensor as far back as a foot or so from the tailpipe outlet, after the cat, after the muffler.
The reading will be delayed, in that the engine can be running something different than what the sensor is reading at the moment, but it will catch up when the exhaust gets through the system and finally arrives at the sensor.
If installed before the cat, as is mine, the WB can track the AFR swings a closed loop system produces. If after the cat it'll produce a steady reading if the cat is good, and swing if the cat is bad, which is how OBDII can indicate a failed cat.
The actual AFR is not affected by the cat PROVIDED yours does not use air injection.
If your system uses air injection, then the WB must be installed ahead of the point at which the air is injected.