Long story I guess I don't think I need to go through it all. But it’s still long.

I'm using a 7730, autoprom, and S_AUJP_v4. I've been datalogging and dumping BLM vs MAP vs RPM into Excel, running a pivot table, recalculating VE values etc. BLM/128*VE_Value

It's telling me that I need more VE, and not just a little bit.



As you can see, its not just at WOT, but also all the way down to 50 KPA.

So the next question that came to mind was the injector constant and fuel pressure. The injector constant was already adjusted to 28 lbs/hr and I'm using 30 lb/hr SVO's at 50 psi. My injector constant should be 34! And I'm still showing I need more VE?!?!

So I checked fuel pressure again, but this time I taped the gauge to the windshield and drove with it. Given my situation I'd think that I need to loose a lot of pressure to make this much of a difference, but I didn't. It is pretty rock solid on 50. The only fluctuation I see is due to map pressure since I didn't un-hook the manifold to regulator hose…. Hmm, that means that it should go up quite a bit more than what it did at WOT…

So I just went back outside, pulled the vacuum hose to the FPR. It shows 60 psi at idle?!?! 60 psi at cruise. Now at WOT it slowly drops from 60 to 50 psi hmmm. That’s good to know.

But still, 50 kpa is a lot different than WOT, so why do I need so much fuel there? And I’m at 60 psi with 30 lb/hr injectors and my constant is set to 28 lb/hr.. What the heck is going on here?

I looked at the pulse widths from a data log that formed the table above. That data long showed one peak to 45% TPS and everything else was way under 30%, so I wasn’t exactly running it hard, but the greatest injector duty cycle shown was 25% and the greatest BPW was 5.1 msec.

I bought my injectors online from someone on camaroz28.com and he said they were 30 lbs SVO’s. Maybe that was a mistake? I checked the PN and they are indeed 29.4 lb/hr Bosch injectors..

WTF?


Please help I’ve been messing with this tune since May and it hasn’t been easy. Actually, I haven't been able to do much actual PROM TUNING since hardware and other BS has been the killer.

And I'm not using a VSS and I do have some errors FWIW. I can post them if need be.
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The flags:

 

Once the fuel delivery is corrected you may find that the VE changes. Even at the 50 KPa level. I also wouldn't run the fuel pressure that high. As the fuel pressure increases the volume decreases. It is also harder on the pump.

Note that the flags state that the trans is in park. For a stick it should always be in drive. The park/neutral input to the ECM should be open for a stick tranny.

RBob.

 

Error 51 indicates a bad chip.
You are not running on the bin values but are running in "limp mode"
Should be rich as hell and sluggish.
Reburn the chip until you don't get err 51.

Reset that INJ constant to the correct value once you get the fuel pressure below 50. Do a search for recalculating the value correctly according to your measured fuel pressure. Use that values.
Check the return line is not kinked somewhere causing the high readings (or confirm with another gauge)

No VSS will never get the CL code to come out of idle condition (lots of driability problems can cause problems)
Look into getting that working.

 

Wide Band shows 14.xx during cruise. It is a bit sluggish though. I'm using the AutoProm. What’s weird is that if my laptop isn't plugged the fan instantly turns on when I turn the key indicating Limp Home. If I plug the computer in with tunerpro running it seems fine. I also verify the Emulation Ram and it says everything is ok

Should I try clearing the codes or burn a chip using my PP? I can't get the Autoprom to work in Datalog only. I've read the directions 10x, still can't figure it out.

I ran -6AN braided line this past winter. I don't really know how or where it could kink, but I'll have a look. Could something be wrong with the gas tank vent? CCP and the whole line is deleted and plugged, but I still have the tank vent.

I have the parts (I think, thanks Rob) to make it work, it just a matter of pulling the trans and doing it. I should probably get off my *** and just do it. Hopefully I don't run into problems. But I solved the stall on decel problem by opening the throttle blade set screw. Basically, the IAC isn't doing anything at idle. I do have bucking and surging during cruise at low rpm in 1st and 2nd gear. Besides that, it sounds like it might be giving me other problems that might not be so obvious.

I initially set it to 50 when I first started the motor this spring. I don't intentionally have it at 60, but also don't know how it got there. I'm going to start by dropping the pressure and see if that helps keep the pressure more consistent.

I'll look into that. I'm pretty sure that I left those wires open, so I'm surprised at that.

 

I figured that the code 51 was from emulating. If changes are made and the checksum isn't updated at the next key on the PROM checks out as bad. Which is really the emulator, not a PROM. Can set the MaskID inthe calibration to $AA to bypass the checksum check at key-on.

As long as you can key-on and get the SES blink (a single blink off) then all is OK.

Fuel Pressure: if the gauge is liquid filled and under-hood, then it is only accurate when everything is at 72 F. After you drive around and it heats up the gage will report a lower then true fuel pressure. If at this point the fuel pressure is increased to match what the gage reports. Next time at 72F the pressure gage reads high. Which it truely is.

RBob.

 

You're going to hate this. I tore out the dash this past winter and I put a small bulb on the SES wire then obviously grounded the other side. I can't get it to work. I've checked voltage and get nothing.

 

Hey Stan, you should probably post a few pics or links to pics of your car so the guys can get an idea of what you've done. When you say you "tore the dash out" I instantly think of 110% hack job, when I know that's not how the car is. Might help the guys sleep better knowing they are helping on a car that is worth their effort and not some boneyard scab.

I've had some similar issues to you that I've fixed, and I have a few more to work on. Rbob has given me some great info to help me with my problems, but I have to say I only have problems because I'm picky. My car does't surge, and drives almost like stock now. My point is, if you want to meet up some time and try a few things let me know. I highly doubt I'm any better at this than you, but I have gotten my car working pretty well so some of my tricks may work for you. I also think I can help you figure out how to datalog. I had trouble at first, but got it working. I live in BG now so we could meet just north of Toledo if you want.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking when I said the "your going to hate this" comment. Good idea w/ the pics.

To me, at least at this point in time, little BS things like getting stuff that I paid a lot of money for to work right is the biggest problem and you don't know how many times I wish I had someone whos done this before beside me to show me how to get it to work. After you figure it out it is second nature, but until then it seems insurmountable. I just remembered that I have your #, you'll be getting a call.

 

For the SES, wire it to switched ignition +12 v. Then on to the ECM. The ECM pulls the line low (grounds it) to turn on the bulb. I like to use an LED with a 1K ohm resistor in series. Note that LEDs are polarity sensitive, so they only work when connected in the proper direction.

RBob.

 

RBob, that is beautiful. Thanks!!

 

I disabled check sum and code 51 went away.

I moved the fuel pressure down to 46 and it holds there a lot better. It looks like it might drop a couple psi at WOT. Is this normal / acceptable?

 

I just looked at the data log. I'm still at an average BLM of 150.7 @ 50 KPA and 3000 rpm, which gives me a new VE of 104. At least from that run it looks better, but still not good.

I'm going to start pulling the trans.

 

That'll be a big job! LOL what is it 8 bolts? (4 for DS yoke 4 for trans) Gotta love the old school Jerico!

 

Dont forget the 5 bolts for the cross member and 6 bolts for the shifter.

Plus the muscle

 

With the WOT fuel pressure drop, if the MAP is also dropping and the vacuum line is connected to the FPR, then yes, they will track 1:1 (converting for psi vs KPa).

Just need to be sure that it isn't dropping more then it should be. The testing you did with the vacuum line off is a good way to tell.

If the fuel pressure drops, or even hints at dropping when the vac line is off. There is an issue.

Fuel pressure on EFI setups have to be dead rock solid. BTDT, have the t-shirt.

RBob.

 

The line was off.... Crap....

Fuel pump, fuel line, or wiring / relays?

I have brand new -6AN, a new stock (made in china) fuel filter. No place to even kink the line. The only bends in the line have roughly a 12" radius.

Car ran fine with the old stockish 350 TPI.

 

if you got it to datalog, look at the voltage to fuel pump, make sure its correct.

if it is you may have a fuel pump getting weak. When mine went bad a few years ago it did exactly this. It just slowly started not being able to keep up. I happened slow enough I got used to the car and didnt realize my little 305 at the time was getting down on power until it became very obvious. When I replaced the fuel pump it transformed the car, I didn't realize what i'd been missing....

 

Voltage was 14V for the whole datalog so it looks like a pump is in my future. I'd like to cut a nice hole on the top trunk sheet metal and cover with Al plate to make servicing easy in the future. Any idea on pump location? Good/bad idea to cut the hole with the tank in the car? I'm going to try a search.

The trans is out Hour and fifteen minute job by myself

And for the record, there is 21 bolts and 4 screws...

Next time it'll be out in an hour

 

Well, it seems like it took forever, but the VSS now works and the fuel pump is replaced. I ran into issues, as always it seems, with the Hydraulic TO blowing out so the trans has been out again.

But anyways, the fuel pressure is rock solid and the VSS works great. Drivability is much better. I made a few improvements with the idle etc and it works.

But I'm still having issues with the Maxed out VE table


Could it be a S_AUJP issue? It seems that the car just doesn't respond to VE changes. For example, the car is sitting and idling and I change the VE in the particular cell that the engine is currently running in from 59 to 70, emulate / verify etc, and nothing changes. The wideband stays the same, and the BLM doesn't change.

Here's my upper VE table:

As you can see I added a lot of VE from where it was stock. It just has never seemed to respond

My injector constant is 28, fuel pressure 42 psi, injectors 29.4 SVO injectors (which are rated at ~38 psi IIRC).

As far as errors go, I don't have many anymore:
Bombed -> Non-vol memory Bombed - what does this mean?
KS off -> Knock Enabled (diff cool) - I assume my KS isn't working for some reason. The data show's "1" for every row.

 

In S_AUJP there are several VE tables to choose from. I haven't looked at it enough to give a definative answer, but it may be that you are using the wrong VE table. IIRC there are option bits (flags) to set/unset to select which VE tables to use.

NV bombed means that the NV RAM checksum failed.

RBob.

 

I disabled checksum, so i assume that is why it fails?

There are 3 VE tables that I know of in S_AUJP4. The lower, the stock upper, and the extended upper. The lower is what I would change for the idle settings (and it didn't respond). I've checked the flag to use the upper and it does show that in the "flags" in tunner pro that it is being used. Several months ago I tried making changes in all 3 tables and didn't see any respones. I figured it was just the fuel pressure and VSS issues were cause something else to be screwy. But now I have that fixed and it still seems to do it.

 

The other error that I get is "improper shut down" Not sure what that means. A search shows nothing.

 

Looks like S_AUJPV4 is the issue. I switched to V2 and things look better so far. Going to change to V3, or maybe try re-downloading V4 and start over.

 

good luck and keep us posted Stan...

 

Car is running much much better. Still far from perfect, but drivability is 80-90% I’d say, and A/F is safe enough to beat on. I'm still using S_AUJP_V2, but once I switch to a manual prom (back to S_V4?) I expect much of the drivability to improve.

I also need to do some work on the lower table and "idle with a big cam" sticky.

I think I have an exhaust leak since I can't explain why my upper VE table is so spiky. I always average what changes the BLM's tell me to make and the current VE. For the most part I’m in the 126-130 BLM range.

Car is making a crap ton of power. I’m not used to it.