I have the Tunnerprt rt program and the ostrich and i would like to get my motor started and runnin "idle". Will the tunnerpro and ostrich help me figure out my no start problems? Will i be able to rear codes with the laptop and ostrich hooked up with the key "on"? Right now i have to give it gas befor it will try to start...it will pop and backfire then die. Also my fans kick on as soon as i turn the key on and my pump primes, they never used to do that. Im new to data logging and tunnin.

The motor ran and drove ok befor i did the highflow pump swap....i was runnin a highflow in-line pump and the stock in-tank to help feed it. I pulled the in-tank and in-line and replaces them with a 255lph in-tank. Since then my fans kick on and stay on and the motor wont start. Fuel pressure primes and holds good psi from what my gauge reads.

 

I learned a valuable troubleshooting lesson about an engine cooling problem I had. Short story; my SBC cooling problem was I a bad water pump. When I replaced the water pump on the SBC, the water pump gasket moved on me which caused a coolant flow restriction. I went chasing down all kinds of other cooling system problems, I even replaced the radiator with a new radiator. Well, ever $ince that valuable troubleshooting lesson, I've started troubleshooting with what work was most recently done.

A no start problem. I'm not sure what test equipment is available to you? If it was my vehicle I would use my Noid lights to make sure the injectors were firing. I would use my fuel pressure gauge to test for fuel pressure while the engine was cranking. I would check to make sure a test spark plug is working while the engine was cranking.

Ok, with fuel air spark working is there sufficient starter speed?

Maybe the Ostrich 2.0 is not programmed?

I use Tuner Cats RT and an Ostrich 2.0.

I've learned that there is a sequence to get my Ostrich 2.0 to accept a .bin file.

1. I Open Tuner Cats, I would assume TunerPro is about the same? I do not let Tuner Cats automatically connect to my Ostrich 2.0.

2. I select the definition file, 8D for the TPI system I have, then I open the .bin into Tuner Cats, I would assume TunerPro is about the same?

3. After the definition file is selected and the .bin file is opened, I manually connected to the Ostrich 2.0, then I program the Ostrich 2.0.

dave w

 

Was the no start with the stock chip, or Ostrich?

 

the ostrich!
it has a bin file loaded on it and its the same bin that was on it befor i did the pump swap. what do i need to look at on the bin to find out what my fuel psi needs to be set at?

 

Pressure isn't programmed. The stock regulator controls psi, whatever you measure with the engine off and the key on is all your going to get (you said it was good) unless you replace it with an adjustable regulator.

Sounds like a corrupted bin. Probable faulty, Ostrich, and or ECM, which can keep the ALDL SES from working.
Treat like any no start:
check injector 12v
Injector signal
Ignition spark

 

if it will start to fire up with the gas pedal down, it sounds like you have too much crank startup fuel. there is a table in the bin file for start up fueling, crank fuel pw or somethign like that.

My 383 did the same thing, very hard to start. Had to hold gas pedal down. Took the values in that crank pw table and lowered them alittle at a time and it worked.

But then again i'm not sure why a simple fuel pump swap would change the startup of the car

 

It sounds to me like the fans come ON when you first turn ON the key because it is in "Limp Home Mode". It is in this mode because the Bin that you have loaded onto the Ostrich has been modified, so now the Checksum on that Bin is wrong. You need to save the Bin to your Laptop PC and close the file. Then Open that same Bin file and load it onto the Ostrich. It will then have an updated Checksum and the Limp Home issue will be resolved. Oh, it will have problems starting the engine in Limp Home Mode as well.

You need an ALDL cable in order to be able to read the codes in TunerPro.

 

You can also disable the checksum by changing the Mask ID value to "AA".

 

What ECM are you running?

If it is a '7747/'7748, are you using a Socket Booster between the Ostrich EMU cable and the ECM?

I agree that it's in limp home mode, or at least sounds that way.

Does the CEL flash rapidly?

What pressure is at the fuel rail? "Good pressure" is not a measurment, it is an opinion.

What else can you tell us about the truck and conversion to MPFI?

 

the ecm is a "730" i have an AFPR and the psi is about 48 i think..the truck has been sitting for about a month or more and i have not started it so i cant remeber what the psi was last time i checked.
Also i already have a ALDL cable so i can real time tune the car with the ostrich i just have never messed with it yet...waitin for spring and lookin for a tunner in town that can help me with it. I think i can find a few LS1 tunners, think they could tune a TPI motor?

I also have a check engine light that comes on and i have tried to jump the ALDL so it will flash the code to me but it wont work.....I have done this befor and its worked fine, so i know im doin it right. Im guessin your guys are right about the "Limp Home Mode".

 

The truck was a 4.3v6 5spd and i installed a 5.7tpi and 700r4 a few years back.....specs--356 .40 over, comp cams 212-218, .486-.495 110, 1.52rollers- Fully Ported aftermarket TPI setup "SLP & edelbrock", bbk52mm TB, Stock cast iron heads, 24lbs, underdrive pulleys, Coated LTs, full 3" exhaust, Built 700r4, 2800Yenk stall, Hurst floor shifter, and 3.73posi.

When i did the pump swap and i unhooked the battery would this cause the ostrich to loose the .bin "tune"? Maybe i need to reload the .bin and try that?

 

No, the Ostrich has its own power supply. Your problem is definatly with a faulty bin. I disabled the checksum on ARAP, and it uploaded fine. Every time I upload a bin to the Ostrich, I verify it in TunerPro. I haven't had a problem yet. One other thought...with 48psi, you might want to think about changing the injector constant. Bosch injectors are rated at 39psi, so you will be slightly higher. This may screw with your BLMs a bit. -Jim

 

Can you remove the Ostrich and use a stock chip.
I use TunerproRT and a Moates ALDL USB converter for data logging. I can see the status for all of the DTCs. Chip programming is with a TransTranstronics Romulator.

As to Fuel psi, I have 30lb injectors and my psi is 43.

 

well i pulled the ostrich and brought in inside to reload the .bin everythin seemed to load fine. I went back out and installed the ostrich and turned the key on....still as soon as the fuel pump primed the fans kicked on. so i pulled the ostrich and tryed again with just the jumper and prom...still same problem fans kicked on.

Im guessin maybe i have an open ground or somthin wrong with the pump wiring? I dont get it i installed the pump just that ways the directions said and i sure thought i pulled all the wiring off and the 2nt relay out for the other pump i was runnin. My bat it dead so i couldnt crank the motor but the Psi reads 44-45. Once i get the fan problem and no start problem figured out ill lower the psi ro 39psi. also i hear i "click" under the dash right after the pump primes and befor the fans kick on...not sure if that has anythin to do with it or not but im lost

 

It's sounds like the Ostrich is the culprit, all I can say is you really need to get it to start with a stock chip before attempting to use the Ostrich. If it does the exact same thing then it's either a bad ECM, and or wiring. If you want to claim that there's nothing wrong with the wiring, Ostrich, or ECM that's fine, the only proof you need is a running engine.

 

well i got the battery charged and have messed with the AFPR...still cant get it to start at all but it will fire and stumble a bit when i crank the fuel pres way up. like 60psi but when i back it down to 35 it wont even fire. im gettin the pressure reading from the gauge on my fuel rail. I cant see the gauge when crankin.

 

Are you checking the plugs after extended cranks?
42 psi with the engine off is more than enough.
have you done a flow test on the supply line?

• Release fuel pressure, attach suitable hose to end of supply line (coning from tank) into a container.
• Apply battery voltage to fuel pump test terminal.
• Fuel pump should supply 1/2 pint or more within 15 seconds (I find it easier to do 0.5 gal/min.)

I still say start from stock.
Sure wish you were here in Texas.

 

"Apply battery voltage to fuel pump test terminal"
if i have an in-tank pump how do i do this? the weather turned crappy again so ill have to wait it out but ill be doin this when its better out!

 

wow ok i figured it out today.....i feel stupid but i pulled out the edm to look at it and the ostrich came unhooked from the prom. i plugged it back in and it started and runs like it did befor!!! now its time to get it to run and idle better...i need to find a tunner and learn how to do this tunnin stuff haha so much info
thanks for all your help guys!