Hi guys. I need some help. I had a Hypertech chip awhile back and I loved the throttle response. When I tapped on the gas pedal, there was the instant jump (OEM somewhat hesitates or is slow in response to acceleration). But now that I threw in a Moates G1 adapter and OEM Memcal, there is no more instant jump or quick throttle response that the Hypertech had. So can someone help me and give me tips on what I need to modify to have that throttle response that the Hypertech? And yes I feel that this is a "Do it myself", I just need the guidance. Thanks guys.

 

And Im a begginner in TunerPro so be easy guys.

 

Do you have a chip reader/writer? You may be able to read the hypertech chip. I'd start by adding some timing to your timing table. Do you know where this is in TunerPro?

 

Why are you using a G1 adapter with the OEM Memcal? Does the Hpertech sit in the adapter? if so then the car is running on the Hypertech not the Memcal. Or something is wrong and you are running on limp home mode from the Memcal.

As Iroc said, you can copy the bin from the Hypertech, but you cannot burn it directly to the OEM Memcal without an UV eraser. You can burn it directly to a EEprom and put that in the G1 adapter and it should run and act exactly like the Hypertech did. Or of course you can replace the prom on the Memcal with a EEprom and burn the bin file to that.

 

Read my post again.

 

The 87 TPI Hypertech Memcal that I had took a serious dump. Constantly gave me a code 51. So I bought a G1 adapter, threw on my 86 305 Memcal onto the G1 and had a 87 350 TPI bin burnt into a SST 27SF512 EPROM.

I had to explain this above so that utilityguy2 could understand my situation.



I was thinking of copying a Spark Advance Table from a H.T. MemCal and pasting it in place of the OEM 87 TPI Spark Advance Table. But I dont know how to do that.

 

In other words, how do i replace this table below with another table?


IROCThe5.7L, is this the table that you are referring too?

 

Sorry I did re-read it and it had none of the information you posted later. Hard to help when you don't have any information. That's simply what I asked for.

 

AAHHh. My apologies utilityguy2. I have my OEM 86 305 Memcal. I swapped out my bad engine with a 350 block. So thats why I have a 87 350 bin programmed into a EPROM. problem is that I dont like the throttle response. When I had the 87 Hypertech, the throttle response was CRISPY. I loved it. So I wanna modify my current EPROM to have the same CRISPY response.

 

Simplest solution is if you were happy with the Hypertech Bin, just copy the complete bin to your sst512 chip. You are going to get into trouble just copying some tables. fuel and spark all work together. But if that's what you want, you need to setup the compare bin and either use the function cpy frm cmpr or highlight entire compare table and copy to new bin. that's where you get into trouble. But, maybe Iroc can tell you more.

 

None needed. We all here are just trying to help.
Be careful if the Hypertech bin is for a 305 as the tables will be all wrong for your 350.
Why don't you try the S_AUJP_V4_1026.zip which has the latest and greatest AUJP bin to be found on Moates.net in their downloads section. Has all of the Tunerpro masks included.
I run that and it has instant response.

 

Thats the problem. I had the HT read and it didnt look good. Tables where all messed up. I would clone it if i could but its out of the question. Here is what the Spark Table to the Hypertech looks like below......

 

I cant use AUJP. I have a 350 MAF. The AUJP is SD.

 

Sorry I forgot that part.

 

hahaha. Its ok man.

 

Have you tried the 89 AUJM bin? That's without the cold start injector so you'd need to unplug that. Stock program should still give you good throttle response. You sure you used right mask to read the Hypertech? Wrong mask=garbage. Or even try it a couple times. Is 128921 the correct Hypertech number?

 

Reason I asked that is that a 6E mask is for 89 whereas $32b is 87-88 and $32 is 86 I think.

 

Currently I have that Bin (AUJM) modified with lower fan turn, EGR disable. But I dont feel to comfortable without the 9th injector being disconnected.
The Hypertech that Im shooting for is the 87 TPI 350 ThermalMaster-Hypertech 127062. But I cant buy it because its illegal in CA. As a matter a fact, I had sent out my Hypertech chip to Make Davis (Tuner/Programmer) to read the chip. So Im sure Mike knows what he was doing. The picture with the messed up Spark table is what Mike got when he tried to read the MemCal. So as of right now, Im stuck in the mud.

 

I would suspect you can buy it, just not use it. Make sure you get your Hypertech Memcal back. I'd have someone else verify it just to be sure. It should be read with a hex editor and then compared. Hypertech chips are just the basic bin with an aggressive spark, lots of fuel and fans come on sooner. This are nothing you can't do yourself.

 

Nope. Summit and anyother legit company will charge and prepare the shipping. Once they ask for the shipping adress and they hear the beautiful word "California", they will say that the MemCal is valid in 49 states and they cannot sell to a California adress. I can't get the MemCal back either. I gave I back to my bro n law.

 

You can try the $32B 127062 I sent you, I have not done a compare from the arar and arap but those tables don't seem to produce knock retard.

 

Hey what's up B. I didn't find a 127062 in the folder. The only other one close to it is a 127072.

 

Weird, I will send it tomorrow. I looked at my sent messages and it was in the folder.

 

Just double checked. Nothing. Okay B. no rush my friend. Take care of the surgery and be safe.

 

Just looked I guess dyslexic am I !, You are right !! opps typo. Doing better every day man. we had 16 inches of snow drop overnight. can wait for winter to be over

 

dyslexic? Nah man. You just overlooked it. Lol. Damb. I wish I still lived in CO. My wife and I LOVE the snow. I hope I can find that HT 127062 MemCal. Even then, a ThermoMaster for the 89. Either one would work for me.

 

Glad Brian found one for you. I looked for last couple hours and couldn't come up with one. Good Luck

 

I thought that Hypertech didn't modify any spark until WOT? I don't think they touch any part throttle spark or fuel.

 

That's true on a Corvette bin so I'm guessing it follows for F body as well. Just a few degrees difference though. They seem to gain the most from lowering the engine temp from what I can see.

 

It is very likely low on timing. Try an ARAP.bin file but lower the timing some if you don't have aluminum heads.

When I did the chip to lower fan settings and such for you a long time ago, it was a ABWT.bin. Not sure how it was compared to the Hypertech chip on your car though. I can email you that .bin file if you want.

 

dan0617!!! I haven't seen you on the boards for a long time!!! I still have that very same ABWT bin on my pc and in my saved emails. I'm shooting for the Hypertech 172062 because of its crisp throttle response and for the coming 110* summer that is just around the corner. Currently in San Bernadino, CA is my AFR 1040 aluminum heads.

 

Well, if you are going with AFR 1040's, depending on other parts of the setup and compression and such, here is what I would do:

Forget the hypertech chip. Going with major mods like a great set of heads, you can't just plop a chip in it. You will need to tune it. Go with a stock 6E arap bin to get started. Set up your compare bin in Tunerpro, then compare alot of the other settings from your stock bin and copy them over into your arap bin. Like converter settings and such. Or, you may like the arap settings once you try them. Change your injector size over to the size of injectors you have, change your fan settings down to turn the fan on about 10 degrees higher than your thermostat temp, and off about 3 degrees above your thermostat temp. Set your WOT timing at about 34 degrees. Set all the other timing tables to 0, like the PE spark advance table. Leave some spark in the startup spark table, but zero all the other ones out. The spark table is what you see is what you get, so as long as your distributor is set for 6 degrees advance, the numbers in the main timing table are already taking that 6 degrees into account for you. Disable vats and anything else you don't need. Then begin tuning the blms and such.

Do you have a wideband? If not, you should get one. You are going to be making some power now, you don't want to go lean.

I'm assuming you already have the 6E.xdf file. I have some modified 6E .xdf files, depending on how far you are going I can send you whichever you want. What I mean is, you wouldn't want the one that datalogs a wideband if you aren't going to hook it up because it will mess up other things. I have some that have some other things in that are sometimes helpful to edit, should you ever need them. I'm sure the standard 6E.xdf is good for you for now. I can email you a stock arap.bin if you want also. I unfortunately don't have a good arap modified bin for you to use because all of my modified ones are for running full open loop as that is what I do.

As a side note, what intake are you running? Going with the AFR heads, consider a stealth ram, or a cheaper option but just as good IMO is a modified lt1 intake. There was one on corvetteforum for sale recently for about $300.

 

What crisp Throttle response? When i had my hypertech i had rough, sluggish throttle response. The stock AUJP gave me the crisp throttle response. Crisp throttle response will come from leaning your car out down low in the rpms. Then u want it to richen up at WOT.

 

Why dont u just lower your fuel pressure for now? That will give you that clean, smooth zippy feeling out of your car. Only problem is when u go WOT, then u may lose power cause it may not be rich enough. This is where a custom tune will benefit!

 

If I have $300, I would bite. But unfortunately I don't. The intake that Im gonna install is a port and polished SLP runners with a deep siamesed job, Edelbrock TPI Hi Flow intake base and a ported plenum. The wideband that you are referring to is a O2 sensor correct? You gave me so much good info. Thanks. I'll have to investigate the BLM and PE? I've never felt with tuning and this will be the first time that I get a self crash course in tuning. Thanks Dan. I appreciate the help.

 

You could also try raising your timing,if you want better throttle response too

 

What gears do you have currently? I ask cause i see you are changing the intake.

 

I had a very good throttle response with the hypertech before it took a dump. It had the tendency to make your head snap back.
I don't have a AFPR.
currently set at 6*

stock, 3.27.

 

That intake will do you a nice job. It will be a torque monster. I was just thinking you were bolting the stock intake back on it. That would not help those afr heads any.

Please don't mess with the fuel pressure. Make changes in the chip. Lowering fuel pressure will just cause the computer to change blms and screw up the tune. Might feel good for a while but not a good thing to do.

If you want to make timing adjustments do them in the tune also. Your dizzy is at 6, which is where it is supposed to be.

Is the car running now, not yet torn apart for the head swap? If so, put the arap bin in it, adjust the WOT timing to get it at about 30 or so total (others can help you with what to run for timing on iron heads better than I) in the main timing table, 0 out the other timing tables, change fan settings and vats and such, put it in and try it. I'm betting you will like it.

Then after the head swap you can start the tuning process. Shouldn't be too bad since you are keeping a TPI style intake. I'm guessing the part throttle stuff won't need much work and the PE mode will need more fuel. Timing will likely be around 34 total and 23 or so at idle, depending on compression and such.

You are a wideband setup and datalogging cable away from what most of the best tuners on this forum use, and all of the knowledge you need is in the search function. Don't hack it with fuel pressures and turning the dizzy.

Throttle response also has alot to do with accel enrich tables. You can try playing with them some if the arap bin still doesn't feel like you think it should. Without a wideband it is tough to tell of the ae is rich or lean though. You can increase it some and see if it is better or worse for responsiveness, then you will know which direction to go.

Forum member orr89rocz helped me alot when I started tuning this 6E stuff. He knows his schittt

 

Yes,that's correct that changes shoould be made in the chip, but i was referring to where he is now or currently. I said for the time being until he tunes it,he could lower fuel pressure,cause stock our cars are too rich down low yet too lean up high. So lowering fuel pressure will make it run much better in some cases(at part throttle driving). Also raising the timing will give better throttle response too,but it will change the timing across the whole spectrum.

 

Nothing has been done yet. Stock heads are still in place.

 

Just peeked at the ARAP bin and it has 3.07 gears. Wil that affect anything since I have 3.27 gears? http://www.chevythunder.com/prom_bcc_1989.htm

 

Not much if you have a mechanical speedometer.

 

Sweet. I got a cable driven speedometer.

 

the bcc's vs gear ratio where designed to reduce emissions and don't have anything to do with your vss / speedometer cable

 

Good evening B . So all it is is just emissions related? I thought it was more of speed, distance, and or fuel consumption. :S

 

You won't have any problems. Worst case scenario is that your mph settings for torque converter lock and such might be off a few mph. So, if you want something at 35 mph you might have to put 40 mph in the tune in order to get it at 35. I'm not sure you will even have that issue though, just try it and see.

 

Cool thanks for the help dan0617.

 

Hi A, no im not canadian, lol. the bcc is based off of engine and transmission and rear end / tire size to help cut down emissions. I also like to set the tcc lockup a little higher even if your speedometer gears are correct for the tire size and gear ratio.